Which Cleaning solution?

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Harlequin

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For cleaning router bits and saw blades etc
Is the CMT one best or is Axcaliber one OK?
Anyone with experience of these

Cheaper "solutions" welcome as well
Advice much appreciated
Ta
 
Personally I think the CMT stuff is absolute rubbish, bought some because all of the reviews were good, and all it seemed to do was rust my cast iron beds and blades. Now I use liberon wax on beds along with wurth woodslide for the blades and cutters
 
I've just filmed a sequence cleaning gummed up saw blades. Just about anything that will soften/dissolve the resin will work. Some people swear by oven cleaner, although I've not tried it myself. WD40 will do it, but I have had very good results with Cif Stainless Steel cleaner which I purloined from underneath the kitchen sink.
Just remember to do it in a plastic container or tray rather than a metal one, as tungsten carbine chips very easily.


S
 
Haven't tried any of the above methods, but I have used the universal thinner sold at Lidl every so often, even on my carbide tipped saw blades, used with an old toothbrush it really gets job done, I also use it for cleaning my diamond sharpening pads...bosshogg
 
Circ saw blades - take out and lay down flat on a bench and remove resin with a scraper or old chisel, immediately after a work session when it is still warmed up and a bit soft. Not every work session - just when the blade is looking a bit clogged up.
Similarly with other tools - a bit of gentle warmth.
 
Steve Maskery":2qtuqvc9 said:
Personally I wouldn't use any steel tool to clean WC teeth.
S
Actually I tend not to bother with the teeth themselves - it gets dislodged in use anyway. It's more the gunge on the steel flat which causes the blade to bind.
 
Here's one I prepared earlier:
before.JPG


and after a good seeing to with the CIF:
after.JPG


Cheers
Steve
 

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I'd say that blade hardly needed cleaning. Your "before" is only a bit worse than what would be my "after" snap.
I do it when the disc itself and the bits behind the teeth (coinciding with the dark area in your 1st snap) are encrusted with resin and sawdust and binding in the cut. At this point the blade is warmed up and the resin is soft.
 
Harlequin":6gsmmuk5 said:
any link to your video Steve?
'Fraid not, not yet, anyway. It's not yet published. It's part of my treatise on the tablesaw, which I'm still filming. I'm trying desperately to get it finished before I lose my workshop. I don't know when that will be, but sooner rather than later. Not much left now, though.
I might well make that segment a trailer actually, it's about the right length.
S
 
Steve Maskery":1ehlqkfo said:
Harlequin":1ehlqkfo said:
any link to your video Steve?
'Fraid not, not yet, anyway. It's not yet published. It's part of my treatise on the tablesaw, which I'm still filming. I'm trying desperately to get it finished before I lose my workshop. I don't know when that will be, but sooner rather than later. Not much left now, though.
I might well make that segment a trailer actually, it's about the right length.
S

I'm just wondering why are you about to lose your workshop...I know that' a bit nosey, but I'm just wondering...bosshogg
 
Swarfega Jizer ( i think thats what its called ) or WD40 . Both very good for cleaning blades/cutters .
 
Can I bump this one up to the top again - I was about to ask this question and did a search just in case and found this was last week's discussion :D . I've made my bandsaw blade all mucky sawing several almond logs which aren't dry.

There seems to be several materials recommended in the thread and 'bathing' recommendations for a circular blade but how do I deal with a band ?

Thanks
Rob
 
OldWood":3r7c7yoc said:
.... how do I deal with a band ?

Thanks
Rob
Apply scraper or old chisel to the side of the blade whilst it's on. Careful not to snag the teeth. Preferably when it's warmed up from use.
If it's that gunged up you might need to do same to the wheels.
 
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