Where to buy cornice in the UK?

[Agent_zed]

I have no idea if there are any dangers doing the following other than the obvious danger to fingers. Makes me wince seeing him put his hands/fingers over the blade! but removing that danger with pushsticks I can't see a reason why you can't do this it certainly seems to work.

Obviously table saws arent meant to have wood come in at an angle like this so potentially some danger of damaging bearings if you push too hard to fast. As he says it should just push against the fence and it shouldn't bind as its not a through cut.

Prepared to be shot down as I wouldn't want anyone to do anything dangerous but is this an option?

 

[Inspector]

I'm not going to shoot you down as I already suggested it but with proper attention to safety that the video dude knows nothing about. I have done it a few times with no issues and bearing wear on any decent saw should never be an issue. You are after all only removing a millimetre or two per pass. Special blades are available just for coving that will because of the round tips make a smoother cut that requires less sanding to clean up. They are not necessary though, just nice if you do it a lot.

TABLE SAW COVE CUTTER & BEAD CUTTER
https://www.amazon.com/CMT-235-006-07-Cutter-800-523-11-Molding/dp/B000P4JP66 There are others.

Online calculators like these ones tell you the fence angle and blade angle (should you want an asymmetrical cove) can be found with a search or two.

http://www.thewoodpecker.net/cove/cove.htm
https://woodgears.ca/cove/calculate.html

Pete

 

[Agent_zed]

I'm not going to shoot you down as I already suggested it but with proper attention to safety that the video dude knows nothing about. I have done it a few times with no issues and bearing wear on any decent saw should never be an issue. You are after all only removing a millimetre or two per pass. Special blades are available just for coving that will because of the round tips make a smoother cut that requires less sanding to clean up. They are not necessary though, just nice if you do it a lot.

TABLE SAW COVE CUTTER & BEAD CUTTER
https://www.amazon.com/CMT-235-006-07-Cutter-800-523-11-Molding/dp/B000P4JP66 There are others.

Online calculators like these ones tell you the fence angle and blade angle (should you want an asymmetrical cove) can be found with a search or two.

http://www.thewoodpecker.net/cove/cove.htm
https://woodgears.ca/cove/calculate.html

Pete

ah yes sorry missed your suggestion in the earlier post. Woodmagazine do a safer version

 

[deema]

Look, your fingers your life. Just don’t go to A&E to try and get them sewed back on, don’t go claiming disability benefit because you F up your life by loosing your fingers / hands. If you’re stupid enough to have a go you deserve to loose them, that’s Darwin. Just dont expect everyone else to pay for you for your stupidity for the rest of your life.

Wishing you all the merry Christmas and a ten digit New Year.

 

[Agent_zed]

Look, your fingers your life. Just don’t go to A&E to try and get them sewed back on, don’t go claiming disability benefit because you F up your life by loosing your fingers / hands. If you’re stupid enough to have a go you deserve to loose them, that’s Darwin. Just dont expect everyone else to pay for you for your stupidity for the rest of your life.

Wishing you all the merry Christmas and a ten digit New Year.

Whilst I agree in principle, could you elaborate on what exactly you see as the dangerous part(s)?

I would identify the exposed blade as the main risk but I may be missing something you are seeing and that is always useful to know.

If it is just the exposed blade that is the danger this could be rectified with a guard on an arm, or simply screwing a cover over where the blade is between the 2 angled fences (could even make a section out of perspex incase you accidentally raise the blade too high without noticing, although unlikely as you'd go through your workpiece also).

I would think the blade is unlikely to catch as it is not going through the wood for it to bind.

If you feed too fast it would just bog down?

Perhaps if the jig/fences came loose, could that cause a bind? I would have thought it would just cut the jig/workpiece. Could add 2 clamps to each end of each piece to mitigate.

With the blade covered and the wood fed in slowly from the side with a pushstick is that not as safe as pushing wood through straight, although without the risk of kickback?

Seems as safe to me as pushing something across the top of my planer, of which I have a healthy respect for whilst doing.

Sorry if this is going off the OP

 

[niall Y]

Seem to remember that this method of cutting a cove, is the one recommended in a book I have, on antique reproduction furniture. Can't lay my hands on it at the moment, but it's an American publication.- and a good one at that, It certainly works, but as a way of forming a cove, it is far from ideal.

Applying a sideways force to a saw blade does destroy the bearings in the arbor - as I have found out, to my cost. I used to have an old 'Royal Saw Bench' that I cut tenons on, and I would give them a final clean up by passing them sideways over the revolving blade. Even taking off this small, final whisker of stock, did wreck the bearings, and I soon abandoned the practise.

 

[Inspector]

I mocked up how it can be done. The front and back angled fences clamped solidly to the table and a thick blade cover screwed on top. I drew in the screws. Feeding in the wood until close and then switching to a push stick in the left hand gets it most of the way with a second push stick (with a barb on the tip made with a screw or nail to dig into the wood) in the right hand to complete the cut. Or a second person to tail the board through. That person (experienced woodworker) understanding they are to pull the board through at the same speed you are feeding. Your hands aren't anywhere near the blade.

Pete

 

[deema]

The blade is not designed to have a sideways load, the risk of it ejecting the stuff is very high. The circular saw is one of the most dangerous machines, using it any other way than what it’s designed to do is pure madness. The stats for amputations on a saw is high, and thats when they thought they were using it as intended. You don’t need to meet many saw users before you find one that can’t count to ten.

 

[HOJ]

You don’t need to meet many saw users before you find one that can’t count to ten

I cant actually mimic this emoji !!! take note people...

 

[Richard C-D]

This place might have something that you could adapt or make out of two mouldings Timber Mouldings | Available From Stock | Stockport Timber click on the View Our Brochure heading

No one seems to have suggested making the moulding with hand planes. I've got some hollows and rounds and on many occasions have made quite complex shapes using these and the table saw. It didn't take too long and at no risk of losing a digit.

 

[Mjward]

I don't know what I've done wrong with my notification settings but missed all of this conversation. Have read through and was an interesting discussion, certainly is something I have the tools for but will be first to admit not the skills/confidence at this stage to use a table saw in such a way.

In the end ordered for Atlantic timber thanks to a previous suggestion and collected same day, had updated on my other thread of the build itself with them fitted (Walk-in wardrobe) For the price it was a very easy decision!