What Tools?

[Batfink44]

HI PEEPS !

I'm totally new to wood working and I am starting off with simple projects like cutting plaques etc. I'm having trouble cutting the big sheets down to size accurately. I have a circular saw with a guide however, the thickness of the mdf board (orrid stuff :evil: ) is only 6mm and it tends to slip over the guide. Cutting the 8x4 sheet into little 6inch plaques etc is beginning to be really tedious as i'm not getting accurate cuts. So i thought as a labouring saving item should i buy a table saw?? i've been looking on the net as I dent have a very big budget and have seen the titan sf10n1 from screwfix for about £100 WOuld this be a good investment or is there an alternative tool/method of achieving my goal??

 

[matt]

Handling an 8x4 sheet on a table saw, particularly when it is 6mm (i.e. flimsy) is not easy. A panel saw is more what you'd need but not a hope of getting one on a tight budget.

I'd start by asking a timber yard to cut the sheets in to smaller sheets. Then you could get them on a table saw.

Alternatively... forget the table saw and get a straight-edge to run your table saw against. For less than £10 you can get a melamine coated chipboard "shelf" from B&Q which will do the trick.

You can make more elaborate straight edges but their better explained with photographs (which I don't have to hand right now).

Also... Think about supporting the sheet when you're cutting it. If I were regularly making lots of cuts in 6mm sheet then I'd make a lattice work 8x4 frame to support it. Again, easier to explain with illustrations.

Suffice to say... cutting sheet material is straightforward when you know the tricks. And it does not need a table saw. (In fact I have a table saw and I still use my circular saw with a straight edge).

 

[Waka]

Welcome to the forum.

I'm not sure that a table saw of the price that you are talking about is going to solve your problems. To break down 8' x 4' sheets you will need a table saw with a big bed and possibly a sliding table, although the sliding table is not a must. Ths sort of set up will cost you more than your budget.

You mention that your circular saw has a guide rail, is there no way that this can be set up so that the guide rail does not move? I think your money would be better spent trying to sort this problem out.

 

[matt]

You mention that your circular saw has a guide rail, is there no way that this can be set up so that the guide rail does not move? I think your money would be better spent trying to sort this problem out.

I don't think it's a guide rail... Reading between the lines I think it is a fence and the 6mm is too thin to run on the flat. I may be wrong.

 

[Waka]

You mention that your circular saw has a guide rail, is there no way that this can be set up so that the guide rail does not move? I think your money would be better spent trying to sort this problem out.

I don't think it's a guide rail... Reading between the lines I think it is a fence and the 6mm is too thin to run on the flat. I may be wrong.

You could be right Matt, I think the man needs a FESTOOL :lol:

 

[Batfink44]

I did try to ask my wood supplier if they could cut the sheets smaller but he was very reluctant - something about the H&S regulations with the dust. I thought this to be a little odd as he is a timber merchant and surely should have some of doing this.

Anyway the guide/fence on my circ saw is literally about 8 cm long and goes out to a max of 5 3/4 inch so I cant even get to 6" (ahem..)

I suppose the simplest ideas are the best and it didn't even occur to me to get a fence/guide....btw whats the difference between them? i feel a bit stupid now :wink: and can you get them 4ft long?

As for the lattice frame Matt what sort of material should i use? and what thickness? as i like the idea of this.

 

[PowerTool]

Hello,and welcome to the forum

I've got a couple of these Axminster guide clamps - find them very handy in combination with circular saw/router etc.

Andrew

 

[neilyweely]

batfink
I would forget the fence that is supplied with the circ saw you have, and clamp a long straight edge to the 6mm you wish to cut, taking care to measure the offset required between the edge of the base of the saw and the position of the blade you should be able to run the saw along the straight edge with the blade cutting along your line in the 6mm. In other words use the straight edge as the guide rail. This is the 'usual' way of doing this.

Make sure the work is supported well, possibly on some bearers, to ensure the blade is clear of the floor/bench you use to cut on. If you go to youtube and look up festool ts55 demo you should get an idea of what I mean.

Hope this helps. It worked well for me, till I got my festool.

Neil

PS See this thread - https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=29261

 

[Batfink44]

OH MY GOD i want one of those festool systems they look brill... and pricey I bet..
Anyway i get the idea now and i think i will invest in some guide rails instead of a table saw seems that my money will be better spent. and im putting the festool on my xmas list to santa this year :lol: .. santa has allready told me not a chance but i'll work on her.

 

[John. B]

Hello batfink welcome to the forum.
Remember when you use a portable circular saw, set the blade depth slightly more than the material you are are cutting.
Don't use the full blade depth unless you need it. (It cuts cleaner, lessens tearout)
Oh' and don't let these festool woodniks talk you into spending loads of money on overpriced tools. There are plenty of other things for you to get first. :tool: :tool: :tool: :tool:

John. B

 

[OLD]

Makita do the cheapest rail guided saw very similar to festool .
6mm is difficult to cut as its flexible get a sheet of polystyrene on the floor plywood on top then the rail saw or any circ. saw with a guide edge and you can cut it and keep it flat and keep using the poly. over & over again.