WHAT IS THE BEST ROUTER TABLE.

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Rob Cheetham

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chaddesden derby
I have been into woodworking a few years now (started off scrolling) and have slowly been building my own garage workshop.

I have now come to wanting to get a router table for general profiling but I like to look to the future as I dont know what I may end up using it for once I get more and more experience.

I have never had this much trouble deciding on what tool to buy lol.

I have been looking at 6 as follows:

Jessem table with lift - rutlands website

Jessem Phenolic table with lift - rutlands website

Xact deluxe router table with lift - rutlands website

Kreg precision router table system PRS1045 - ffx website

UJK Pro router table - axminster website

UJK Technology Router Table with Laminated Top - axminster website

The jessem tables seem really good but expensive and comes without router. Plus I am unsure as to weather you can adjust the outfeed fence for a very useful jointing feature I am after (though I know ways you can still achieve jointing) I like how they both have lifts as well which I want as I want easy cutter changes and height adjustment.

The xact table looks great for the money and comes with everything, even a router and a lift. Though you have to pay more for featherboards and nvr switch. I have a spare old nvr switch that I plan to use. The only things that bug me are the reviews and the mdf top. Are the reviews to good to be true? Also even though it says that it is a highly pressurized mdf core, could it still warp over time as it would be in a garage where even though is dry and leak free can get quite cold in winter. Also it does not seem to have a adjustment for jointing on the outfeed fence.

The kreg seems really good and have watched some youtube videos showing it off. It has the adjustment on the outfeed fence. It does not come with a lift or a router though. And I am unsure as to what lifts would be compatible with the plate insert size.

The ujk tables are what I am seriously contemplating. The cast iron one looks brilliant and have watched the video on axminsters site. The top package is like 1300 which is expensive but I believe you get what you pay for. The elevator is 320 on its own.

Unfortunately have two routers. One thats a npower 1/4 1300w and the other a silverline 1/4 1/2 1500w. Both not great routers I know so will probably have to get the router out of the ujk package (a trend t11ek)

Any advice on a dence router would be appreciated too.

I know I have kind of answered my own question but I just want to get some advice of some people who know what they are talking about as personally I am an average joe at most but plan on carrying on with this for years to come so dont want to buy twice. When I bought my first scroll saw I took it back within a week as I wasn't happy with it. Ended up buying an excalibur 21" and havent looked back since lol. So getting what you pay for rings true here lol.

Plus its a lot of money to spend so want to know that I am making the right decision.

Thanks for reading and look forward to reading peoples thoughts on this.
 
Make your own
I made a New Yankee Norm one (plenty of it on utube videos) a Woodpecker plate, DW 625E and a RouterRaizer

Rod
 
I have the UJK Router table and lift and have not had any major problems except one caused by myself trying to lift the router without unlocking the lift, the fence does not have a facility to move one half forward to allow planing, but a few shims would cure that, having said all that, I have bought the JessEm Clear Cut stock guides through Peter Sefton's site: https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/produ ... ock-guides the quality is beyond reproach to the point that if I was ever going to replace the UJK table (which I am not envisaging ever doing) I would seriously look at what JessEm had to offer, have a look on Peter's web site: https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/ different brands available.

Of all the Router chuck extenders (which you will need) this is the best of the few I have used: https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/colle ... usclechuck

Mike
 
Depends on how often you use it. Every day, buy one (but I can’t advise on brand). Every few weeks (like me) make your own. If you only use it sparingly you don’t need gizmos like lifts, micro adjusting fences etc. Mine is a piece of MDF with a thinner ply insert plate (OK for my Bosch 1/4 inch machine) and a fence which is adjusted with F clamps with bodged up extract port. Only thing I bought for it was a Ttrack for featherboards.
 
Harbo":2vqngrpw said:
Make your own
I made a New Yankee Norm one (plenty of it on utube videos) a Woodpecker plate, DW 625E and a RouterRaizer

Rod
I haven't the time really to build one and feel my levels of experience would hinder me. I would consider it in years to come but for now just want one that will last me and made by the pros lol. Thanks though. I shall till take a look on YouTube and think about it.
 
MikeJhn":v59ffgag said:
I have the UJK Router table and lift and have not had any major problems except one caused by myself trying

Mike

So for you it's UJK or jessem. I like the look of them stock guides. Do they work better than feather boards then?
 
Marineboy":2d613q8p said:
Depends on how often you use it. Every day, buy one (but I can’t advise on brand). Every few weeks (like me) make your own. If you only use it sparingly you don’t need gizmos like lifts, micro adjusting fences etc. Mine is a piece of MDF with a thinner ply insert plate (OK for my Bosch 1/4 inch machine) and a fence which is adjusted with F clamps with bodged up extract port. Only thing I bought for it was a Ttrack for featherboards.

It won't be every day but not every few weeks either. More like every other day. I want to do a lot of profiling and rabbeting but just don't want to be hindered in the future when I have gained more experience and want to challenge myself to some bigger projects. I Will look at some vids on YouTube for homemade ones and see what I think
 
For me, the best option was to make my own I'm tall (6'5") and felt it was important to be comfortable while working so my table sits higher than the bought ones. Also its made to fit into a space in my workshop.
It's important to be able to change cutters from above the table and for me I do enough work at the table that It is worthwhile to have a completely dedicated router for the table. I looked at buying a motor and a lift but in the end decided on buying the Trend T11 for less than the price of the lift let alone the motor, the lifts are ridiculously expensive and offer very little more for the money, I've read good reviews of the Triton as well.
Another plus is the fact that I enjoyed the actual making of the table as well.
But I have to admit I have looked at the cast table top from Axminster and it's great and when put together with all of the add-ons it would make a fantastic (all be it pricey) addition to your workshop.
 
The trouble I found without the lift, is having to access under the table to lock the Router once the height had been dial'd in, this was of concern to me, due to Arthritis in most of my joints, also the Muscle Chuck is also a boon due to only needing an allen key to change the bit, no double spanners or needing to lock the router from underneath again.

The JessEm Stock guides are in a different league to feather boards, due to their operation feather boards in front of the fence are very if ever needed.

Mike
 
MikeJhn":3sqsznlv said:
The JessEm Stock guides are in a different league to feather boards, due to their operation feather boards in front of the fence are very if ever needed.

Mike

Added to the Christmas list… Will these slot in standards UKJ T-track Mike?
 
+1 for Stock guides, I have mine in ukj track. For less than a fiver this is a good buy to keep your fingers away from nastiness - ffx website, but available elsewhere “WP-CRTMK3/21 Top guard CRT/MK3 *REPLACEMENT PART*” attached to the mitre track.

Re which table, make your own, work out what you don’t like and make another one (repeat until you are happy). It can be very simple, my first table was ply and a solid piece of timber for a fence - it did the job admirably for ages

If you really want to spend money invest in some decent router bits - Wealdon are really good!
 
if youre adventurous, build your own.
I'm on my 3rd home made table, just about to start making the 4th (hopefully the last as well)
Each one better than the last, each one more suited to me and my way of working.
Doesnt have to be furniture quality, just sturdy. The top is now a metre square because I use it as a layout / glue up / bench top table.

But I admit, I have now bought the UJK pro fence and T slots, and I like the quality, so if you just want to buy one. i think UJK is the way to go.
 
Raymond UK":rg7xxpg2 said:
MikeJhn":rg7xxpg2 said:
The JessEm Stock guides are in a different league to feather boards, due to their operation feather boards in front of the fence are very if ever needed.

Mike

Added to the Christmas list… Will these slot in standards UKJ T-track Mike?

They are fitted to my UJK table fence, so if the aftermarket T track is the same I assume so.

Mike
 
I have the UJK pro fence, and the UJK T track, AND a couple of UJK clamps.
The fence has two seperate tracks, one above the half fences, and one on the top. My clamps fit all three tracks.
 
I'm quite surprised when looking for the "best" table router setup that you haven't got an Incra system on that list. I have the LS positioner and the accuracy it gives you with setting the fence position up is second to none, takes all the guesswork and trial and error out of setting up a cut. I built my own table in 6mm steel on the side of my table saw which is great as it means I can use magnetic feather boards etc for guiding the workpiece. I also built my own version of the "clean sweep" inserts which makes an enormous difference to the amount of mess left on the table, so in your position where I presume you're looking to buy rather than make my suggestion would be an LS positioner, one of the Incra insert plates and the clean sweep insert rings.
 
I have the big cast iron UJK table from Axminster, together with the UJK Router Lift. Thus far, both have worked faultlessly; the table is as flat as a flat thing, even when tested with a LV metre straight edge and the lift has been excellent with the caveat that the chain is cleaned and lubed regularly. Also the 'locking' device hole does get gummed up but it's easy to clear it by vigorously loosening the compacted dust with the pointy end of BarBQ skewer and then vacuuming out the debris - Rob
 
I also have the UJK router lift and the locking device hole has never gummed up, I would suggest woodbloke that your extractor is not up to the task, what do you use? and do you have the extract box on the underside? I lube the chain with STP oil additive, its very sticky, never had to clean the chain, the STP oil additive seems to do the job, in four or is it five years I have not had any problems.

Mike
 
MikeJhn":2in6wzl0 said:
I also have the UJK router lift and the locking device hole has never gummed up, I would suggest woodbloke that your extractor is not up to the task, what do you use? and do you have the extract box on the underside? I lube the chain with STP oil additive, its very sticky, never had to clean the chain, the STP oil additive seems to do the job, in four or is it five years I have not had any problems.

Mike
Nope, it gums up from the top side so eventually it's difficult to insert the hex drive and make it engage. I just use an occasional squirt ofWD40 or similar on the chain. I use the extractor box on the underside with a NVD750 plugged into it - Rob
 
I use a https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-h ... tor-501264 which has the stated extraction of 2000M3/hr the NVD750 according to Numatic who make it has an extraction of 350M3/hr as I said I think that may be your problem, using the FM300 practically no chips or sawdust escapes forward of the fence extract to gum up the locking device hole.

Mike
 

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