What could u make a workbench out of for little £?

[LuptonM]

I've decided I want to make a workbench but have little cash to splash. I think for my budget I really have to scavenge solid wood worktops, wooden beams and timber of ebay (or in the market place of this forum) that is going cheap and only has cash on collection (ie. things that aren't easy to post). I might even have to mash layers together out of different woods to get a thick enough top

I know some people use mdf or plywood for the tops but even that would be quite expensive, if u want a roubo type bench. How would u hand plane mdf if it warped slightly? Plus it would look ugly

I think the best wood, if possible, to make a workbench out of here, price wise, would have to be European oak ( has a slight advantage over beech) and not SYP like many disillusioned souls who skim read the workbench book by Mr Schwarz

On another note, would solid wood floor boards be suitable for a workbench top? I have no idea how laying a floor works so, I am not sure about it- tongue and groove right? but would they clamp tight (so no gaps)?

Ideally I want to get the solid wood for a 1.5m-2m x 65cm x 8cm deep worktop for about £50. I know thats going to be a challenge but I also know its possible- though . I wouldn't want to pay much more since I don't really have enough confidence in my skills
I would have to spend some dough to get some decent hand tools, maybe a jointer plane, marking gauge, ow angle block plane and a shoulder plane. Possibly some of the speciality planes could be bought of ebay for under £20. However I would want a decent jointer plane as it would be used alot in the future (christmas present to myself?) and badly joined wood is just ugly.

I figure I could probably get away by routing the tenons, after taking the bulk of with a cheap hand saw and cleaning the shoulder with a shoulder plane. Rout free hand till I get near the shoulders and use a plane blade to place a straight edge of some form to the line and use a bearing bit. Mortises could be routed, with the corners cleaned up with a firmer chisel
BTW I won't be undertaking this project, if I can get permission from my parents to stick an eye saw into the garage, until at-least Christmas

 

[Paul Chapman]

Plus it would look ugly

Nothing ugly about an MDF bench

In fact I think it looks quite cool 8) 8) :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[brihol]

Although it's a lot smaller than you suggest, I made one of these http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/189 ... ne-is-easy
and it works really well. A video and detailed plan are included.I made the top thicker than they suggest out of two pieces of 25mm mdf glued and screwed together from an 8x4 board from B&Q. I'm sure you could adapt the size of the design according to your needs. I tracked down some long (3m) lengths of M10 studding from a local electrical supplier.
Brian

 

[knappers]

I too built mine based on the finewoodworking.com design.
My frame was built entirely from wood scavenged from large pallets at work. I bought the 10mm studding from an aircon ducting place on ebay, built the top from two sheets of 25mm mdf from B&Poo and lipped with hardwood. Bench vice scrounged from my dad's old bench (and fitted with new hardwood jaws).
Cost very little to make, and should make a nice starter bench.
I started putting a WIP on this thread, but it needs updating...

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/project-2-a-bench-t42681.html

Si.

 

[Mike.C]

Luptonm wrote

I know some people use mdf or plywood for the tops but even that would be quite expensive, if u want a roubo type bench. How would u hand plane mdf if it warped slightly? Plus it would look ugly

Personally out of all the benches I have seen on UKW Paul's has to be one of the best. Alright it may not be the best looking, but it is far from ugly. And anyway looks take a back seat when it comes usefulness. As far as I can see he can hack away at some timber (not that he hacks ), and when he wrecks the top he just takes the upper one off and replaces it with a new piece.

Now compare his against mine

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... prod21594/

Mine is as solid as his, better looking, made of beech, and has a lovely tail vice, but it also has a price tag of at least £400 more expensive. Ok I was lucky and paid Axminster about £200 less then that, but it was still a lot more then Paul's.

If I was in the market for a bench I would without doubt make my own, but at the time this was not possible.

I do not know if there are anymore going, but if you search for work benches, benches/ table's you will find a couple of links from some who was giving ex school hardwood benches away. Sorry I am a bit vague, but I just glanced through the threads. Maybe someone else could point you in the right direction

Good luck with your bench

Mike

 

[woodbloke]

Plus it would look ugly

Nothing ugly about an MDF bench

In fact I think it looks quite cool 8) 8) :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

...and very strong. I'd face an MDF top with some sacrificial hardboard (stick it down with d/s carpet tape) but it's not essential - Rob

 

[LuptonM]

Maybe I just have he Schwarz bug, and I just don't like MDF anyway
Granted u can make the top out of MDF for about £20 but I'd rather pay a bit more and make a nice hardwood one (though the legs can be softwood if they want). If it looks quite nice then I'll be more likely to be in the mood to make nicer things on it- purely physcological

I'd rather make my own bench -give something to do in the evenings

That bench (http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... prod21594/) is a good example of a badly designed bench (probably) according to Mr Schwarz

-The top isn't thick enough
-the draw will get in the way
-the legs aren't flush with the edge of the worktop, so no clamping to the side
-the apron gets in the way of clamping
- the legs are spindly
-dog holes too far apart

 

[OLD]

Second hand fire doors are solid timber and heavy, covered with 18mm mdf and softwood under frame job done for little money any design you care for and little time spent .

 

[LuptonM]

Are fire doors really solid wood? Wouldn't they burn nicely?

If so this is near by http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/fire-doors-/15050 ... 230a9161b1

would make a perfect worktop if it was

 

[speed]

Are fire doors really solid wood? Wouldn't they burn nicely?

If so this is near by http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/fire-doors-/15050 ... 230a9161b1

would make a perfect worktop if it was

most firedoors are solid chipboard core, you can get solid timber tho, a 7x3 firedoor blank will be solid timber and imo perfect size

 

[Karl]

I'd go for Paul's recommendation, which I followed

Cheers

Karl[/img]

 

[beech1948]

One of the best initial bench buiulds was written by Bob Keys in the US.

Softwood from the DIY shop, good vice hardware and solid construction skills.

To make it cost less you could substitute the softwood top for an MDF double layer plus some tempered hardboard.

Bob Keys site is down but it is available from the Wayback Machine.

good luck
Alan

 

[Alf]

One of the best initial bench buiulds was written by Bob Keys in the US.

Softwood from the DIY shop, good vice hardware and solid construction skills.

To make it cost less you could substitute the softwood top for an MDF double layer plus some tempered hardboard.

Bob Keys site is down but it is available from the Wayback Machine

Bob and Dave's Good, Fast and Cheap Bench (PDF)

 

[LuptonM]

I'll think I'll bide my time and wait for a solid wood worktop to pop up on ebay close to me. I'll probably end up having to buy 2 to get the thickness but it shouldn't exceed £50. Should cost about the same amount as softwood but more than mdf but similar to birch ply

Any ideas on the rough cost of legs and stretchers - don't mind having them made of softwood but would like them to be quite thick?

That guy in the pdf spent £125 on wood and vices. I doubt the record vices were too spendy so he maybe spent £90 on wood.

Anyway whats the recommendation on fair priced vices in the uk?

 

[barkwindjammer]

A fire door is what I'm using, topped off with MDF, should have some WIP pics this side of 2011

Q: for the guys that have used MDF, is it Moisture resistant, and do you put a finish on it (yours looks shiny Paul-oeeer missus)?

 

[Karl]

Q: for the guys that have used MDF, is it Moisture resistant, and do you put a finish on it (yours looks shiny Paul-oeeer missus)?

I put some Chestnut melamime lacquer, followed by a couple of coats of wax. It's held up pretty well, but could probably do with re-finishing.

HTH

Cheers

Karl

 

[mtr1]

Made mine from re-claimed Keruing, pine, oak, mahagany, and beech. Total cost 20yrs ago £45.

 

[barkwindjammer]

Did you use MR MDF Karl?, and where would a gentleman of a virtuos inquiring nature negate a fine and resplendant livery such as Chestnut melamime lacquer

(been reading the fascinating post on Briar pipes Grayson)

 

[matt]

:lol:

 

[Karl]

Did you use MR MDF Karl?, and where would a gentleman of a virtuos inquiring nature negate a fine and resplendant livery such as Chestnut melamime lacquer

(been reading the fascinating post on Briar pipes Grayson)

Don't think it was MRMDF - can't remember, but i'm sure I bought it from B&Q.

Chestnut lacquer is available from Axminster.

Cheers

Karl