What about Cascamite?

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Hi all,
I am making chessboards which requires multiple element glue ups hence I need an adhesive that will remain open for longer periods. Currently I'm using 'Titebond Extend' which I'm finding expensive (£14/15 for 16Fl OZ). Thinking of changing to Cascamite as I figure it will go further being a powder mix. Any experience/advice welcome.
 
Been a while since I used it, but I don't remember Cascamite having a particularly long open time.

Also you need to wear gloves when using it. It is a sensitising agent I believe.

It is good wood glue though.
 
It's virtually the only glue I use. I use it because I thought it was friendly, never reacted to it and open time depends on temperature.
I used to use it as a kid, six or seven years old, as the glue with papermache to build boats. The only reaction I got from it was from my granddad when he discovered the reason for his drum of powder being nearly empty. I had had a reasonably successful boat building career by that time with only one incident of falling in the pond while testing.
 
It is, as always in a private setting, up to the individual what PPE they choose to wear.
I remember someone writing to (I think) "The Woodworker" around the late 1980s, saying that they had used Cascamite for years with no PPE, and no apparent reaction, and then suddenly had a bad allergic reaction to it.

It's entirely up to the individual.
Personally I prefer to err on the side of caution, and follow the instructions.
 
Cascamite left my shed decades ago. The powder seemed to go "off" with time, resulting in a glue paste that wouldn't gel fully but contained solids.

In addition, the stuff is very hard when dry. Don't put any glued up panels through your planer-thicknesser - you'll have multi knife-nicks in no time.

For a longer open time (and undo-ability) try liquid hide glue, such as that sold by Titebond. It's very forgiving of all sorts.
 
I've used Cascamite extensively over the years especially where an extended open time is advantageous. It's true that it cures to a hard and brittle state but it is very strong. The hardness does become a consideration in a continuous industrial production situation where resharpening costs may be significant. It does need a bit more attention as compared with PVA, ie, mixing and clean-up (best done asap with wet cloth). As for mixing, follow the instructions for your first few mixes but the proportions are not that critical and you'll soon get the feel for what is satisfactory.
Cascamite does have a shelf life, but it is determined by the rate of atmospheric moisture ingress. It's true that moisture can pass through plastic containers, so to keep it usable almost indefinitely I transfered it asap into glass jam jars. I used to buy 1.5kg Everbuild tubs.
For many years its reputation plummeted as manufacturers played around with its formula (its been discussed many times here on UKW). However a couple of years ago the name was bought by a company called UREKA(the name that sticks) and they have gone back to the original formula and have promoted it extensively - I got my free 125g tub, along with many others here, and it works fine.
Regarding H&S, I've never had a problem, Ureka do put all the usual advice on their packaging.
So my advice is to buy a small quantity and try it out.
Brian
 
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For a longer open time (and undo-ability) try liquid hide glue, such as that sold by Titebond. It's very forgiving of all sorts.
That wouldn't be cheaper though, would it?

You can make your own liquid hide glue by adding urea, or even salt, to hot hide glue and that should be pretty cheap. Plenty of recipes online.

Pearl hide glue is currently £15 for 500 grams on eBay and that should make a gallon or two!
 
Cascamite left my shed decades ago. The powder seemed to go "off" with time, resulting in a glue paste that wouldn't gel fully but contained solids.

In addition, the stuff is very hard when dry. Don't put any glued up panels through your planer-thicknesser - you'll have multi knife-nicks in no time.

For a longer open time (and undo-ability) try liquid hide glue, such as that sold by Titebond. It's very forgiving of all sorts.
Many thanks
 
I've used Cascamite extensively over the years especially where an extended open time is advantageous. It's true that it cures to a had and brittle state but it is very strong. The hardness does become a consideration in a continuous industrial production situation where resharpening costs may be significant. It does need a bit more attention as compared with PVA, ie, mixing and clean-up (best done asap with wet cloth). As for mixing, follow the instructions for your first few mixes but the propotions are not that critical and you'll soon get the feel for what is satisfactory.
Cascamite does have a shelf life, but it is determined by the rate of atmospheric moisture ingress. It's true that moisture can pass through plastic containers, so to keep it usable almost indefinitely I transfered it asap into glass jam jars. I used to buy 1.5kg Everbuild tubs.
For many years its reputation plummeted as manufacturers played around with its formula (its been discussed many times here on UKW). However a couple of years ago the name was bought by a company called UREKA(the name that sticks) and they have gone back to the original formula and have promoted it extensively - I got my free 125g tub, along with many others here, and it works fine.
Regarding H&S, I've never had a problem, Ureka do put all the usual advice on their packaging.
So my advice is to buy a small quantity and try it out.
Brian
Many thanks for your very comprehensive reply - I will definitely give it a go. Axminster seem to be doing a reasonable deal on it at the mo and I am down in that area this weekend. Good excuse to go and dribble over some of their gear.
 
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