West system epoxy resin

[vinnie_chip]

Hi everyone,

Has anyone had any experience with the 105 resin and 205 hardner? I am doing some quite large deep inlays in a table top where I will be setting tigers eye gemstones in the voids. I would like to know if I could do the pour in one go. The voids vary in size, the largest being roughly 45mm x 150mm x 100mm. Thanks in advance.

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

That is a lot of expensive West System you will be using there but I can't see any problems with doing it. You might want to do it when the temperature is cooler say early morning to give you plenty of time to clean up before the resin starts to set. I was using some in the middle of the day yesterday and it went to the jelly stage in about 10 minutes.

 

[jasonB]

I'd be worrioed about the amount of heat being generated by that amount of epoxy going off, you may be better off with one of the clear casting resins which don't get as hot when going off in large amounts.

I'm assuming you are not setting one large stone but having a whole load to look like pebbles in water in which case the west will not be crystal clear either.

 

[vinnie_chip]

I did think about clear casting poly resin but was put off by the strong smell (our bedroom is above the garage where i work) also ive read that epoxy is a lot stronger than poly?? there are a couple of areas where the stones and epoxy will be visible on 3 sides so the resin will have to have a good strong bond to the timber.. I have just done a test pour of about 1" x 1" x 1" on some scrap wood and the epoxy has sunk quite a bit due to the heat generated so think I will have to do it in seperate pours. I am not too worried about the epoxy having a slight amber tint to it as the tigers eye are all brown, gold and yellow..

 

[vinnie_chip]

....

 

[Shrubby]

Jason's concern about the heat worries me too. If you pour in one go the heat given off (exotherm) will warm up the air in the wood producing lots of bubbles. It might be better to seal the wood with a thin primer of epoxy first. Do a second pour which you embed your stones and then a final one to level out the surface - as with anything like this have a few small experiments to familiarise yourself with the stuff -good luck
Matt

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you go down that route, be very, very careful about keeping dust away from it. The stuff seems to appear from nowhere.

 

[vinnie_chip]

So do you think I would be better using a clear casting poly resin?

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

It might be worth your while talking to Alec Tiranti. He supplies artists with moulding sundries. I have found them to be very helpful in the past

http://www.tiranti.co.uk/

 

[iNewbie]

This might give you some food-for-thought:

Link

 

[vinnie_chip]

better view of the table top..

 

[mtr1]

That large hole in the middle would need to be done in layers, or it will get too hot. Don't be tempted to use poly casting resin, because it won't adhere to the timber when it shrinks back. I got your pm by the way, if you would like to talk about it more in depth, feel free to click on my website link below and get my workshop number to discuss?

 

[Andrewf]

One thing to be aware of, is as that when the epoxy is cured it has a waxy surface. Which can stop future coats sticking. This wax needs to be removed by either sanding or washing with detergent. The other way to avoid this is to apply the second coat before the epoxy has fully cured.
There is even a special cloth that can be put onto the wet epoxy to protect the surface as it cures and can just be ripped off when the epoxy is cured. West do some good technical information on lots of different uses for their products.

 

[No skills]

One thing to be aware of, is as that when the epoxy is cured it has a waxy surface. Which can stop future coats sticking. This wax needs to be removed by either sanding or washing with detergent. .

Yes, a few of the self build aquarium crowd have come a cropper with this over the years. You have to make time to do all the pours within the setup times or let cure and sand. Wasn't aware of the cloth thing, quite clever.

 

[No skills]

better view of the table top..

Like it.

8)

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I don't think casting resin has the added wax like gel coat resin has, as a lot of casting is done in layers in situations that it couldn't be abraded or cleaned anyway. I believe you would add the wax in the last layer to stop it being sticky at the end. My experience is dated, though, and I'm thinking polyester rather than epoxy.
I keep fish, but I can't quite work out what resin would be used for in an aquarium.

 

[No skills]

Clear resins are often used to coat tank décor that would normaly be toxic to the inhabitants.

Both fibreglass and epoxy systems are used by enthusiast's for the building of large aquariums, mostly done by the yanks but on odd occasion over here too. Fibreglass tends to be pushed over here (easier availability and firms already doing ponds etc). Once a tank volume goes over 500 gallons its often a fair bit cheaper to build your own.

FWIW