Waxing P/T Bed ??

[Vinny]

In the process of preparing some reclaimed pine for tool cabinet. Sent lots through the thicknesser yesterday with no trouble but carrying on this morning and infeed / outfeed rollers aren't doing there job. Every piece I send through needs some persuasion on the infeed (stops when the leading edge of the piece contacts the outfeed roller) and when its finally through the blades the outfeed roller doen't send it all the way onto the outfeed bed which results in a bit off a tug to get it clear (and a nice shiny spot where the roller slips on the face)
I've wiped the outfeed roller with a dry cloth as I thought there may have been a build up of "something" from all the work that went through yesterday and i've given the whole machine a "birthday" with the shop vac.

I'm sure that i've heard mention on here before about waxing the beds to overcome problems such as i am experiencing but as per usual I'm speaking a different language to the search facility and can't find any reference.

So..... what sort of wax? I initially thought candle wax but thought that this would leave a build up (and i'm sure that was only mentioned for drawer runners) or would Liberon neutral furniture wax do the job (i've lots of that)

Cheers

Vinny

 

[Niall]

I find Liberon Lubricating Wax works a treat and no residue problems on timber in my experience.

 

[Eric The Viking]

So..... what sort of wax? I initially thought candle wax but thought that this would leave a build up (and i'm sure that was only mentioned for drawer runners) or would Liberon neutral furniture wax do the job (i've lots of that)

I've had very good results with PTFE spray in the past (not the varnish kind, but the thin stuff), but I've also used silicone mould-release agent (from the plastics industry). It's available in an aerosol can spray, non-toxic (I believe, but check!), and doesn't mark wood permanently (but it might spoil finishes adhering if in big quantities). The big advantage of the silicone stuff is that it's not oily, and it really does reduce the "sticktion".

I've got some Trendicote (PTFE coating) but don't really get on with it very well. I use ordinary candle wax on my plane soles, and sometimes Briwax (as I happen to have some and i's easy to apply).

The problem with wax is that it can get into the grain and spoil finishes. Anything that can be removed with meths would probably be favourite, as it then won't cause problems later.

But I suspect this will be a long and well-debated thread... :wink:

 

[Vinny]

Eric, Niall

Thanks for the replies, i've just given it a coat of the liberon and a good buff - what a difference, glides through like as esay as you like.

thanks again

vinny

 

[woodbloke]

I find Liberon Lubricating Wax works a treat and no residue problems on timber in my experience.

Vinny - this is the stuff...works a treat, need to slap a bit on my p/t as well - Rob

 

[eoinsgaff]

OK, to mix this discussion up and to start a bit of a battle. :!: :?: :!:

Its my understanding that silicone is a devious substance as it appears to have been removed until some types of finish are applied at which point it reappears with a vengence. It wa on this basis that I've done considerable research to find the right moisture/rust protection.

Not so sure about the PTFE stuff either.

I'm open to correction on these points. :? :? :?

 

[Eric The Viking]

I'm open to correction on these points. :? :? :?

Heck no!

My experience is just mine, but the huge advantage of a forum like this is the cumulatively vast range of experience of everyone, especially from the experts (and I'm not one!).

OK, so there's probably not a right way to do it that's universal, but you picks up so many good tips and ideas in discussion along the way.

 

[kasandrich]

You have SSSOOOO summed up the advantages of forums, but they are public and anyone can post anything, so you read it all, you know who the regulars are that you trust and you pick up what you wish, and disregard anything you think is rubbish or from an unreliable source.

I can see that for you fine furniture guys something like silicon or wax contaminating your wood could be a nightmare, but as a turner my saws and bits are just used to prepare wood for the lathe, so a bit of silicon or wax should not be an issue as the surface will be turned off anyway. So there is also an element of horses for courses.

 

[jeffinfrance]

i've just used superglide (felder) for the first time, works a treat. it says on the bottle NO SILICONE. i guess this a benefit, honestly dont know why.

used to use solid beeswax before, that worked also but more laborious.

jeff

 

[jeffinfrance]

i've just used superglide (felder) for the first time, works a treat. it says on the bottle NO SILICONE. i guess this a benefit, honestly dont know why.

used to use solid beeswax before, that worked also but more laborious.

jeff

 

[Sawdust]

My pplaner came with a tin of "Waxilit" which seesmt owork well and so far hasn't caused any problems with marking

Cheers
Mike

 

[flounder]

Another vote for the liberon lubricating wax from me. I use it on my jointer and thicknesser beds and never had any contamination issues.

 

[9fingers]

OK, to mix this discussion up and to start a bit of a battle. :!: :?: :!:

Its my understanding that silicone is a devious substance as it appears to have been removed until some types of finish are applied at which point it reappears with a vengeance. It was on this basis that I've done considerable research to find the right moisture/rust protection.

Not so sure about the PTFE stuff either.

I'm open to correction on these points. :? :? :?

You are absolutely correct about the tenacity of silicones generally and when surfaces have to be chemically clean, silicones are the very devil to remove.

Whether this is relevant to our wood working, I don't honestly know but my experience elsewhere, says think carefully before using silicones if there is an alternative to hand.

Bob

 

[Digit]

Waxing the bed is fine, but it will do nothing in my experience to prevent a build up on both the knives and feed rollers. I normally clean both with Meths, but better not to let the resin get too hard.

Roy.

 

[awkwood]

I had trouble with fish eyes when spraying precat lacquer after using silicone spray on thicknesser tables
I had to clean the work with gunwash but is quite hard to remove it
I have not had any problem using ptfe spray from screwfix so far

 

[ondablade]

Silicone as the guys suggest is deadly anywhere around automotive refinishing. Use of even polishes 20 feet away can cause problems with fish eyes. (circular marks caused by specks of silicone preventing the lacquer from flowing out properly to wet the surface)

The car guys use pre-cleaners routinely these days before spraying because there is so much silicone around - it seems to deal with it pretty effectively in my experience.

It might be worth trying one on wood, to use it feels much like white spirit (it flashes off fairly slowly to allow time for wiping the surface to take it back off only now with the silicone) but with something extra. It might not of course be compatible with some wood finishes, and for sure it would soak in and need time to dry...

 

[johnjin]

Another vote here for Liberon Lubricating Wax. I have been using it for several years now and I wouldn't be without it.

John

 

[OPJ]

I'm also a fan of PTFE spray and regularly use the cheap stuff from Toolstation (well, it's the lowest price that I've seen). A coat of wax is good but not always practical when you want to leave the machine running!

It's not only pine but most other timbers can 'stick' to the bed once the wax wears - including oak, as I discovered earlier this week.

 

[dickm]

FWIW, there is an absolute embargo on ANY form of silicones in the automotive glass industry. Apparently, even the amount that someone might carry on their hands after working with the stuff outside can cause problems. At least, that's what Pilkington's adhesives specialist tells me. But she is my daughter.....

 

[awkwood]

A coat of wax is good but not always practical when you want to leave the machine running!

I must agree that if your thicknessing 1000's of feet of timber it is not a option to wind the tables down to re wax the bed and lose the setting so in that instance a spray far better