Walnut and Maple End Table

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I really love that, could you explain how you made the legs and the general size of the table. Lovely
Owen
 
Thanks Owen,

I made an MDF template for the legs. The leg blanks were thicknessed to 40mm and then bandsawn to rough shape. The template was stuck on with double sided tape and I trimmed the leg to shape with a template trim bit in the router table.

The overall dimensions are 500x650x450mm (HxWxD)
 
Slim":2cmzwewy said:
Thanks Owen,

I made an MDF template for the legs. The leg blanks were thicknessed to 40mm and then bandsawn to rough shape. The template was stuck on with double sided tape and I trimmed the leg to shape with a template trim bit in the router table.

The overall dimensions are 500x650x450mm (HxWxD)

The alternative way is to leave the legs over long by about 50mm and then screw the template to the waste at each end of the leg, which might be slightly safer as there may be the tendency for d/s tape to come adrift or move slightly. Also the template may be damaged when lifting it off one leg and transferring it to another as to get an adequate amount of stick quite a lot of tape needs to be used. The profile can then be bearing cut in the router table in the normal way - Rob
 
I did think about that Rob, but I was a little worried about being able to cut both ends absolutely parallel. So, instead, I cut the ends while the blank was still square.
 
Simon - yes, I can see what you're saying. If I were to do something like that then I would leave the legs long as I suggested, do all the jointing and leg shaping and the assemble the table dry, still with the legs overlong at each end. The top of the legs I would then scribe level with the table top and the bottom would be done the same way by putting the table on something flat (sheet of mdf) ensuring that by packing the legs from the underside that the top is equidistant from the mdf at each corner, then fix the scribing blade to a block of softwood and scribe the bottom of the legs so that the overall height of the legs is the one required...table is then dis-assembled and the top and bottom of the legs sawn off and then shot in with a block plane - Rob
 
Beautiful job. Very well done!

I noticed your thread in the other forum and now have to agree, the 1mm gap does work very well indeed.
 
Whilst its a bit wide for my taste, I cannot say anything other than............ I like it!!
I think its the legs and the contrast that make it. Well done :D
 
Simon that is a fantastic looking table mate, your attention to detail (drawer matched grain) makes this stand out.
Out of interest how long did you spend making it (roughly)
Cheers,
Gary.
 
Thanks guys

Gary - I would say it took about three weekends to make. However, if you include the design process, then probably about two months.
 
A very attractive design backed up by very good workmanship. I find that a design always takes longer than the execution of the project itself. It is also then a case of not working from someone elses' plans & instructions so time has to be spent scaling it out & drawing up a sequence listing of the steps to be taken. I hope that you have nice long arms so that you can reach around & give yourself a good pat on the back.

Lee
 
i like this alot :)


when i make a table for me room, want to do something alike but straight legs and maybe not through to the top.

how is the shelf attached m&t?
 
Dan Tovey":2vu9lk1y said:
Very, very nice.

I wish I could get more commissions for this kind of work, rather than the usual boring but very profitable painted MDF boxes!

Cheers
Dan

Who on Earth wants painted MDF boxes?

I ask, because I have loads of offcuts and I love the word profitable!

(I use MDF as support for canvas, for my oil paintings btw, which I sometimes sell, but not often enough :( )

Cheers
John
 
Hi Lark, Sorry I missed your comment. Thanks for the compliment.

The shelf is attached to walnut stretchers with shrinkage brackets.
 
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