Wadkin RT Lathe restoration

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Hi Jim I bought two of these from a dealer who had them in the scrap pile. I have already sold this one. I didn't make big money but at least it gets to spin another day.
 
Hi Wallace, very nice work you do, I'm currently busy with a very small project (4" bench planer resto), not even a drop in the sea compared to your project). I hope it is ok if I ask you a question about the prep for paint, do I need to "sand" some of the old paint off for the new paint to stick or can I just spray over the old paint? The old paint is not that bad (It does not peel off anywhere). Thought I will use the high pressure washer to get all the dirt off and then see how it looks. Whats your thought and experience on this. The best is probably to sandblast?
 
If the paint is still good I tend to leave things be, then use a scotchbright pad. If theres any dings dents I use car bodge and then prime and top coat. Where's the thread with the planer?
 
Thanks Wallace. :oops: No thread as I really don't think it is even worth wasting anybody's time with this, and secondly this is my very first resto ever (First time I pull bearings, first time I install new bearings, first time I "polish / clean" cast iron parts etc etc. This is why your thread is so helpful for me. I have another bench planer (Same size) I have to resto, maybe I will think about it then........ :roll:
 
Don't be shy Van, theres no such thing as a bad restoration as long as something has been saved from the scrap man. Come on get it posted
 
The mention of polishing made me wonder again - Wallace, you worked the flat belt pulleys to a highly polished finish. Does this affect belt slip at all? I'd have expected the pulleys to be at least matt for better grip?
 
Hi **** I didn't polish the pulleys I just put them on the lathe and put a big brass wire wheel in the drill and whilst the lathe was spinning I had the wire wheel going the opposite way. It really gets the rust away. Afterwards I treat the pulleys with black oxide which is just an acid to cause black rust. They have taken on a matt black finish which just makes them look a bit more presentable. It will rub off when the lathe is used
 
wallace":2m55f7fx said:
...I cleaned the bearings of the old grease and they look to be in good condition. The bearings were of coarse british made self aligning and still good after 70 years.

54c26ec8996d7.jpg
Hi Wallace. Did you, by any chance, record what the bearings are (model no.)?

Cheers, Vann.
 
Sorry Van I didn't make a note of bearing sizes. Are the bearings in yours bad.
Eric this was just a quicky for an old iron fix, you must of missed it when I did it 18 months ago. I'm hoping to drag a nice big lump from the garden and into the workshop before winter.
 
Brilliant job and what a lovely machine.

This may seem dim question and I don't want to seem thick but most likely will, but how difficult is it to restore these older wadkin machines?

I have no mechanical background but would love to attempt something similar in the future.
 
It's not as hard as you think and certainly made much easier by posting on boards like the Canadian site which is full of like minded people who will chip in with help and encouragement when you need it. I myself am profoundly inept when it comes to mechanical matters but managed a full restoration of a rare 1960's Wadkin dimension saw with help from folks on that forum. I'll find the link and post it later. If I can do it trust me anyone can!
 
thanks for the reply and link memzey. Something for me to consider when I am in a position to be buying the machines I want, I like the idea of restoring an old machine and knowing it inside out.
 
I hope you do it ST. Basically all of my kit is vintage English and there is almost nothing available new today of equal quality that doesn't require a mortgage to purchase. Even then the older gear often still has certain advantages in my opinion not least of which is price. When I consider the generic, far eastern folded tin I could of got new for more than the prices I paid for my cast iron English kit, well, I just smile :)
 
PS: if you're still having doubts about your own ability to restore a machine, please read the link I posted above and give me your thoughts. Most old English kit is not complex, far from it, the hallmark of these machines is simplicity, robustness and superb engineering. If I can fix one up anyone can.
 
wallace":1wrxmbl6 said:
Sorry Van I didn't make a note of bearing sizes. Are the bearings in yours bad.
Possibly. I've only used it a couple of times so far (currently making a shorter tool rest so I can make up some tool handles (practice, as I have zilch experience with wood turning).

I took the bearing cover off the headstock RH bearing yesterday, and it was dry. I pumped some grease in through the nipple and where it comes out next to the race, looks like it's blocked off by the bearing cover, when the cover's in place. Either the grease can squeeze through any tiny gap between outer race and bearing cover (just 1/64" or less), or I've got a problem. I checked all around the bearing cover, but there's nowhere that there's a groove or hole for the grease to pass through.

I fed some fresh grease into the bearing race with my fingers - for now.

I might take the bearing cover off again in the next day or three, and post some pikkies.

edit: the bearing was marked: SKEFKO/12/MADE IN ENGLAND/R-T-F-E
Wallace's was marked: SKEFKO/10/MADE IN ENGLAND/PSEL
I'm assuming the R-T-F-E & PSEL are production/batch numbers; that more recognisable bearing numbers are etched on the other side of the races; and that these are the original bearings from 1951.

Cheers, Vann.
 
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