Wadkin AGS10 restoration
- Thread starter Krysstel
- Start date
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If you want the ‘proper’ 88503 these chaps have them in stock
https://www.123bearing.co.uk/bearing-88503.php
https://www.123bearing.co.uk/bearing-88503.php
memzey
Established Member
A little bit of backlash on the rise and fall isn’t the end of the world either.
After a week or so doing other things I'm back into the saw today and hope I can pick your expert brains again 
Am trying to dismantle the motor and have run into a problem with removing the pulley.
There are 2 allen headed bolts through the pulley and whilst one came out without too much trouble the other one refuses to budge. Any suggestions ?
Also, what's the procedure for removing the pulley from the shaft ? Removal of the key etc.
And lastly; the screw that goes diagonally into the front cover towards the shaft. What's it's purpose ?
I've removed the back cover as can be seen in the picture.
Don't have much (if any) experience with motor rebuilds and such but what should I be looking for regarding wear etc ? The bearing seems to be a bit noisy and have some play in it and I guess I should replace both - if I can get the pulley off that is !
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Mark
Am trying to dismantle the motor and have run into a problem with removing the pulley.
There are 2 allen headed bolts through the pulley and whilst one came out without too much trouble the other one refuses to budge. Any suggestions ?
Also, what's the procedure for removing the pulley from the shaft ? Removal of the key etc.
And lastly; the screw that goes diagonally into the front cover towards the shaft. What's it's purpose ?
I've removed the back cover as can be seen in the picture.
Don't have much (if any) experience with motor rebuilds and such but what should I be looking for regarding wear etc ? The bearing seems to be a bit noisy and have some play in it and I guess I should replace both - if I can get the pulley off that is !
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Mark
Attachments
Stand the motor upright so that the pulley is fully emmersed in a bath of diesel and leave it a couple of days. Try the gru screw. If it still isn’t budging you probably nee to heat it up to get it very very hot. Let it cool and try again. The absolute worst thing is to round out the hex head on a grub screw because if you do the only recourse is to drill it out.
You need a bearing puller to bet both the bearings and the pulley off. Before attempting to pull the pulley off I always heat them up to hopefully break the seal. There is a danger of damaging the pulley with the bearing pulley. However replacement pulleys are cheap and easy to source.
You need a bearing puller to bet both the bearings and the pulley off. Before attempting to pull the pulley off I always heat them up to hopefully break the seal. There is a danger of damaging the pulley with the bearing pulley. However replacement pulleys are cheap and easy to source.
OK, thanks for the info. I'll try the diesel bath trick first.
How exactly does the key thing work on the pulley shaft ? Is it a loose key that you tap in after the pulley is located by the grub screws or do you tap the pulley onto the key and then put the grub screws in ?
How exactly does the key thing work on the pulley shaft ? Is it a loose key that you tap in after the pulley is located by the grub screws or do you tap the pulley onto the key and then put the grub screws in ?
The key is half moon shaped bit of metal that’s loose. You remove the grub screws, pull the pulley off with a bearing puller. To put it back on you insert the key into the slot dipped down so that it easily located into the slot of the pulley. Tap the pulley back on and it will pop the key into the proper place. Use a copped headed hammer or something to avoid hitting the pulley directly. I also always add copper grease in case I want to get it off again sometime in the future. Replace the Allen screws.
My AGS had a big nut holding the pulley on, I don’t remember any Allen screws.
My AGS had a big nut holding the pulley on, I don’t remember any Allen screws.
I took a close up of the pulley with grub screws. This is the pulley on the motor, not the one on the arbour housing.
I had intended to leave the arbour housing untouched but if I'm replacing the motor bearings I suppose I can just as easily do the arbour bearings as well. However, there's no way the bearing puller I've got is going to get in between the back of the pulley and the housing.
Any ideas ? Do other bearing pullers possibly have smaller hooks ?
This pulley is held on by a big nut BTW, not grub screws.
Mark
I had intended to leave the arbour housing untouched but if I'm replacing the motor bearings I suppose I can just as easily do the arbour bearings as well. However, there's no way the bearing puller I've got is going to get in between the back of the pulley and the housing.
Any ideas ? Do other bearing pullers possibly have smaller hooks ?
This pulley is held on by a big nut BTW, not grub screws.
Mark
Attachments
My bad, the motor pulley is held on by grub screws!
Anyway, the way to get the arbour pulley off is to pull on one of the flanges of the pulley rather than at the back. The groove walls are all just about the same width so it doesn’t really matte. They are not square so I pull just a little to get it away from the back and then switch to the back of the pulley. If it’s really stiff and you think your going to break the pulley press the arbour out slightly and then push it back in to create room. I do this in the vice with packing so the arbour can move out......but I do have a big vice.
Before starting heat up the pulley turning it whist the flame is on it. Then let it cool down.
You will need a bearing splitter to get one of the two bearings off. Something like this on eBay will work fine. Item no 132435355101
Anyway, the way to get the arbour pulley off is to pull on one of the flanges of the pulley rather than at the back. The groove walls are all just about the same width so it doesn’t really matte. They are not square so I pull just a little to get it away from the back and then switch to the back of the pulley. If it’s really stiff and you think your going to break the pulley press the arbour out slightly and then push it back in to create room. I do this in the vice with packing so the arbour can move out......but I do have a big vice.
Before starting heat up the pulley turning it whist the flame is on it. Then let it cool down.
You will need a bearing splitter to get one of the two bearings off. Something like this on eBay will work fine. Item no 132435355101
No, the shaft pushes out from the pulley end. There will be two bearings and a spacer between. There is a bolt on the side if the casting that needs removing before getting the shaft out.
To reassemble you will need a 3/8” diameter BSW grub screw. You insert the grub screw into the inner spacer to locate it to allow you to assemble it again and everything is aligned to get the bolt back in. It sounds difficult, but isn’t, and becomes clear when you get it apart. The 3/8 grub screw is item no 400599661508 on eBay or similar. Download the AGS 12 literature from Wadkin which gives a good write up of how to reassemble.
To reassemble you will need a 3/8” diameter BSW grub screw. You insert the grub screw into the inner spacer to locate it to allow you to assemble it again and everything is aligned to get the bolt back in. It sounds difficult, but isn’t, and becomes clear when you get it apart. The 3/8 grub screw is item no 400599661508 on eBay or similar. Download the AGS 12 literature from Wadkin which gives a good write up of how to reassemble.
Thanks for ALL your help again deema. Really much appreciated.
Have been trying to put together an order from here BEARINGS
Motor bearings (and arbour bearings w/ shims) :-
They are a 6203-open 17x40x12mm.
I assume there's no problem in upgrading these to sealed bearings of the same size ?
Rise and Fall worm gear :-
The closest (although too small so not a real alternative) they have to the original worm is this WORM at £80.
I've hunted around a bit but not found anything exactly the correct dimensions anywhere else so may end up ordering the genuine replacement part I mentioned previously, even though they are £125.
Belts :-
The belts seem to have been replaced not so long ago but if I order new ones these seem to be the closest to them fitted now BELTS
Do you agree ?
Cheers
Mark
Have been trying to put together an order from here BEARINGS
Motor bearings (and arbour bearings w/ shims) :-
They are a 6203-open 17x40x12mm.
I assume there's no problem in upgrading these to sealed bearings of the same size ?
Rise and Fall worm gear :-
The closest (although too small so not a real alternative) they have to the original worm is this WORM at £80.
I've hunted around a bit but not found anything exactly the correct dimensions anywhere else so may end up ordering the genuine replacement part I mentioned previously, even though they are £125.
Belts :-
The belts seem to have been replaced not so long ago but if I order new ones these seem to be the closest to them fitted now BELTS
Do you agree ?
Cheers
Mark
Attachments
wallace
Established Member
Its fun taking lumps of old iron apart isn't it. Your getting great advice, I've not done an AGS yet so cant comment much. My only suggestion is you mentioned sealed bearings as an upgrade to the open ones. I would stick with open ones then you can maintain them
wallace":3mjsxvh2 said:
Ha-ha
Yes, so far I've been having fun but it got a bit serious with that seized screw yesterday. Really ? My thoughts were using sealed bearings would mean I would never have to maintain them again. Not that I doubt I ever would to be honest.
And surely sealed bearings would last longer in such a dusty environment ? The ones in the motor are caked in dust impregnated grease.
Mark
I’ve always personally upgraded to bearings with two rubber seals (2RS) and in this application and for the cost replacing the bearings is cheap should they ever fail. I personally buy SKF or *** bearings which are recognised as high quality. The price difference is pennies to the Dunlop bearings.
I used Dunlop Z22 or Z22.5 belts when I replaced them.
For the worm measure betwee centres on the shafts and find a cog / worm that gives that distance. Your not worried about pitch pressure angles etc just as long as the worm is long enough. You will get a set fir c£25.
Best John
I used Dunlop Z22 or Z22.5 belts when I replaced them.
For the worm measure betwee centres on the shafts and find a cog / worm that gives that distance. Your not worried about pitch pressure angles etc just as long as the worm is long enough. You will get a set fir c£25.
Best John
Measured the worm gear :-
Bore = 3/4" (imperial)
Worm length = ~40mm
Inner diameter = ~35mm
Outer diameter = ~43mm
Boss length = ~13mm
Locking pin through boss = 5mm diameter.
Have checked multiple online sources but can find nothing even close to this spec.
I may be wrong but it appears the absolute critical dimensions for this application are the bore diameter and the locking pin diameter. The other dimensions are important but not critical.
My conclusion is the only solution is to order the original Wadkin part ORIGINAL WORM GEAR
Mark
Bore = 3/4" (imperial)
Worm length = ~40mm
Inner diameter = ~35mm
Outer diameter = ~43mm
Boss length = ~13mm
Locking pin through boss = 5mm diameter.
Have checked multiple online sources but can find nothing even close to this spec.
I may be wrong but it appears the absolute critical dimensions for this application are the bore diameter and the locking pin diameter. The other dimensions are important but not critical.
My conclusion is the only solution is to order the original Wadkin part ORIGINAL WORM GEAR
Mark
You must have exactly the same module and worm diameter (or the equivalent in Imperial) as the one you are replacing; close will not do, it will just jam.
You can, however, do stuff with the bore and length or end fittings if these re not an exact match.
Keith
You can, however, do stuff with the bore and length or end fittings if these re not an exact match.
Keith
