If I'm edge planing "furniture" dimension boards (let's say about 3/4" thick and about 2-4' long), then I'll normally use a cambered blade and the wandering edge method.
But once I depart from these dimensions I'll often use either the Veritas edge planer or an old Stanley side fence clamped to a number 7 plane. Here's some examples of applications,
1. Very thin stock. Much under 1/2" thick and it get's increasingly difficult to balance the plane on the edge, plus to use the wandering method requires such small side-to-side movements that it's difficult to execute accurately. What I normally do is make sure the edge is straight along the length ("stop" planing the centre of the edge until the blade no longer cuts, then take one or two full length cuts), and finish of with a very light cut with the Veritas edge planer to ensure 90 degrees to the reference face.
2. Very short stock. The Veritas delivers results just as good as the shooting board, but it's faster and I don't have to worry if the ends haven't been squared.
3. Wild grain or reference face on the "wrong" side. I use either the left-hand and right-hand Veritas edge planes.
4. Very long boards. Much above six or eight feet long and I struggle with the wandering edge method.
5. Very thick stock. Much thicker than an inch and you run out of camber with the wandering edge method. I keep a 2 3/8" blade ground straight across, which I'll then use in the number seven plane with the Stanley fence.
6. Coopered edges. You can fasten an angled sub-fence to the Veritas or adjust the Stanley to produce a consistent bevel.
