Vaneering with pva

[Melinda_dd]

Is it possible to stick paper/cloth backed vaneer with pva?

We use contact adhesive at work but only have pva at home

 

[JakeS]

Is it possible to stick paper/cloth backed vaneer with pva?

We use contact adhesive at work but only have pva at home

Well, PVA is certainly capable of sticking paper and cloth; the question is probably more what you're planning on sticking it to. PVA more or less just doesn't work on non-porous surfaces, for one. I'd be wary about how well it might work on the edges of MDF, as well.

Obviously the easiest answer is "try it on some scrap". Like that you know for sure!

 

[carlb40]

Would you be allowed to take it work and do a bit each day during your breaks or stay a bit late and do it then? Just thinking it will be slightly quicker as you won't need to clamp the box up then

 

[Melinda_dd]

I'd be sticking it to the vaneer on the mdf.... not the mdf edges ... it will become clear!

I'm doing it a mixture of at home and work but will only be using off cuts from work and material i already have at home.... that way work doesn't loose any stock.

 

[carlb40]

Ahh so you are re veneering the mdf?

I haven't done any veneering yet, but from little i have read. You will need to have this next layer of veneer going the opposite way to the present one. Just thought i would mention it in case you have cut the sides etc to the correct size already?

 

[Melinda_dd]

That's useful to know. Why is that and would that rule still stand with backed vaneers?

It's unavoidable in my box you see!

 

[deserter]

Veneer inch with PVA is totally possible, we used to do it semi- frequently in my last job. Not sure how the backed veneers will work I've only ever used normal veneers.
The thing is to make certain it's well clamped or even better pressed.


~Nil carborundum illegitemi~

 

[mailee]

I always use PVA for my veneering although I have never used the paper backed stuff. I also use it for bonding felt to wood and it works well. :wink:

 

[yetloh]

I always use PVA for my veneering although I have never used the paper backed stuff. I also use it for bonding felt to wood and it works well. :wink:

I agree, it will certainly work, but don't overdo the PVA because, if you get bleed through you may end up with a patchy colour when you finish the piece where the PVA has sealed the surface. You need a nice even but not thick coat - best achieved with a roller. Look forward to seeing the pics.

Jim

 

[Lons]

Hi Mellinda

I've done a lot in the past with Marquetry stuck to ply, chipboard and mdf base and never had a problem using pva (not tried paper backed but don't see a problem.

It has to be clamped flat and tight, I own an old letterpress which is brilliant but before that used the traditional method of 2 flat panels and slightly curved ("cauls?") across clamped tight. I've always veneered both sides at the same time to prevent panel curvature.

Bob

 

[andersonec]

With paper backed veneer the thickness of the whole is such that it does not matter if it is 90 deg to the layer beneath also the glue will not bleed through.

If you are going to use PVA then I would scratch the paper backing slightly, 80 grit abrasive, just enough to take the shine off, then clamp and leave overnight, you could check for any bubbles after a few minutes, if there are then pierce with a pin and re-clamp.

Alignment is going to be very important if you have already cut your MDF, make it slightly over-size, tape well before clamping and and trim with a scalpel and steel rule after dry.

Do not use too much PVA, a thin coat will suffice.

Andy

 

[Peter Sefton]

I am not keen on using PVA or contact for veneering, but if you do use PVA use a cross linked D3 PVA. PVA and Contact both allow veneer to creep (move) which means joints can open up of veneer slip months after pressing.

We and larger commercial veneer shops use Urea based glues either (Cascamite) water and powder mix or powder and resin mix as the hardener can be changed to suit summer/winter or hot/cold press situations and low acid for Cherry.

Veneering on MDF is great no grain direction to worry about unlike plywood but do always use a balancing veneer to keep the panel flat.

Good luck with the project.

 

[deserter]

I am not keen on using PVA or contact for veneering, but if you do use PVA use a cross linked D3 PVA. PVA and Contact both allow veneer to creep (move) which means joints can open up of veneer slip months after pressing.

We and larger commercial veneer shops use Urea based glues either (Cascamite) water and powder mix or powder and resin mix as the hardener can be changed to suit summer/winter or hot/cold press situations and low acid for Cherry.

Veneering on MDF is great no grain direction to worry about unlike plywood but do always use a balancing veneer to keep the panel flat.

Good luck with the project.

Agree totally on it not being the best option, however it will work, and on a small scale like a box should be just fine.

We originally used cascamite to veneer but then switched to a 3 part resin. Both were equally good to use, the resin was easier to roll on smoothly though.


~Nil carborundum illegitemi~

 

[Melinda_dd]

Thanks for the replys.

I think I'm gonna investigate prices of contact adheisive... see if I can find a small tin cheaply, if not PVA it is!

 

[barkwindjammer]

Titebond liquid hide glue might be another alternative? - from Ebay

 

[Paul Chapman]

I think I'm gonna investigate prices of contact adheisive...

If you want it to last a long time, I wouldn't use contact adhesive. In my experience, contact adhesive will eventually dry out completely and the bond will fail. Might take a few years but it will fail.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[yetloh]

Thanks for the replys.

I think I'm gonna investigate prices of contact adheisive... see if I can find a small tin cheaply, if not PVA it is!

I've used contact adhesive for vveneering, the first being at least 30 years ago and it's still well stuck. What I don't like about it is the thick glue line it gives . Whether this matters depends both on your sensitivity to this and the nature of the piece. On something big or on a solid wood framed panel it is unlikely to be an issue. On a small piece like a box which is likely to be examined at close quaters it would glare at you. My preferred glue is now UF or, better still, epoxy which does not cause veneers to expand or stretch, which can resultin veneer splitting when the moisture dries out.

Jim

 

[carlb40]

Have you thought about hide glue? You can reverse it if you make a mistake.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hide-Glue-Pea ... 1e747b8f35

Seems easy to use, and only need a few items.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inyVp5r73_Y

You can use a baby bottle warmer for small amounts

 

[marcros]

Have you thought about hide glue? You can reverse it if you make a mistake.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hide-Glue-Pea ... 1e747b8f35

Seems easy to use, and only need a few items.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inyVp5r73_Y

You can use a baby bottle warmer for small amounts

+1 for the hide glue. fantastic for veneering and i personally like to use it on everything where there is not a reason not to, if that makes sense. Particularly at this time of year where PVA wont go off in my workshop. I also like the fact that it isnt a problem if i make a mess whilst i am learning the craft- not so with pva.

 

[jhwbigley]

I think I'm gonna investigate prices of contact adheisive...

If you want it to last a long time, I wouldn't use contact adhesive. In my experience, contact adhesive will eventually dry out completely and the bond will fail. Might take a few years but it will fail.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

Recently quoted on a job to repair lose veneer on some chair backs which had been fixed in place with contact cement.

JH