Vacuum pump for draining engine sump oil

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fred55

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Sorry a little away from woodwork - but my age group is mend and repair not throw away and buy new. So; I have serviced /repaired most of the family/business cars for ages - but the newer cars are getting the underbody layers which is causing me problems. Honda civic broke the camels back - the plate to remove to get to the sump plug had 6 studs to remove, first one snapped !!!, the last garage over tightened small studs into nut embedded in the plastic. So first thought remove the whole underbody plate; potential more studs to snap and about 17 location points to undo and no pit just ramps so NO ; rethink needed - suck the oil out through the dipstick - after reading reviews about the kits decided to steer away from the cheap plastic manual / pneumatic types. Found one in Belgium looks like a gas bottle with c/a valves and I have a compressor !. looks more homemade than most. So one on order slightly cheaper from Amazon than direct from Trad4u at £84.
If any body gets away from their nice clean woodworking to read this rant; I can give my view on this oil change gizmo in about 2 weeks. In theory no more ramps - sump plug removal - belly plate to remove - old knees getting under cars - should be easier and clean - I hope.

Fred (I should really join a car owners club but they don't use wood on cars).
 
Sounds interesting. Similarly getting fed up with having to use ramps to get the cover off and on and back to ground level in between to drain the oil.
Just need to make sure that the suction tube reliably reaches down to the lowest point of the sump. This was always the unsubstantiated complaint against the drive in oil change places years ago.
Do you have a link please?
 
Myfordman":3qxy4dm0 said:
Just need to make sure that the suction tube reliably reaches down to the lowest point of the sump.

It's certainly not difficult to imagine an engine where this isn't the case.

(sorry about the double negative)

BugBear
 
Funnily enough I've just been watching a you tube video where they show sumps with drain plugs in the side/corner of the sump (for mechanical strength and there is about a cupful of oil trapped in the stiffening ripples (dunches) in the bottom surface of the sump.
All because the sump is paper thin steel compared with a good old cast one.
 
While we are on this topic, a little rant. On Mark 2 and Mark 3 Golfs, there was a neat hole in the undertray through which the drain plug was accessible, and which allowed the oil to flow cleanly into the catching vessel. But on the Mk 4 (and on SWMBO's Polo) the undertray covers everything, and needs about a dozen screws removing to get at the drain plug. WHY :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: ?

And why, again, are most of the screws Torx head, apart from the 3 (with apparently exactly the same threads) with 10mm AF heads.
Even more :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: .

But whoever commented on the disadvantages of pressed steel sumps, at least they only bend, and don't shatter if you hit them on some obstruction. DAMHIKT.
 
I'm not too good on the computer Myfordman but put this in fleebay to get the information/link - " 6 Gallon Portable Pneumatic Oil Extractor Tank Vacuum Drain Drainage Suck Air". I'm shortly to test out the second one in this list and will give an accurate report -
It seems I'm not the only one with a gripe over things modern and yes the new kind of fasteners get my goat - every plastic fastener is different and seem to be one use only - then try to buy new ones - main dealer only *** . In my day -- no no no getting carried away they will be sending for the green van; will stick to my report on the extractor unit give it a week or two.
 
fred55":1hsicx3s said:
....every plastic fastener is different and seem to be one use only - then try to buy new ones - main dealer only *** . ...

Buy a Honda! We're still able to buy the plastic fasteners for our 1999 S2000.

I agree re modern cars. Only the other day, while my elderly Disco was being MOT'd, I the bay next door was a Discovery 4. In two parts. Body shell up on the ramp. Engine, chassis etc on the ground. To replace one of the turbo's. One day to take apart, one day to fit (might as well do both while we're at it) and a third day to put it all together again. Cost? £4000 or so. Crazy on a 59 plate car.
 
When I first read this post I thought what a good idea. Then I remembered that the oil filter on my Mondeo is under the engine so I would still have to remove all the undertray to access that.
 
Evening all,

Being a mechanic by trade I know your pain all too well. If you ever have the displeasure of working on SMART cars then you will know that they do not have a sump plug at all so the oil has to be sucked out. I have used http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-TP...604?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5affc87fac for the job many times and never had one fail (unless its dropped) and trust me mechanics tend not to be the most genteel of people so they have taken some hammer. Looks a lot cheaper than the one linked to above.

HTH

Matt
 
Sucking the oil out thru the dip stick hole is very common practice in the boating world.
There are 2 basic types, Direct suck, or vacuum pump.
Some engine makers, even mount direct suck types, as standard because the engines are mounted so low, the sump plug couldn't be got out.
Tip of the day.
"Warm the oil before changing" means less than hand hot! Changing the oil after a good run, when holding the brass body, of the pump, is not a good idea.

Bod
P.S works on some gearboxs as well.
 
I,m back from a caravan holiday and the box of tricks arrived fri not bad since I ordered tues and it had to be delivered from Belgium, Luckily my next door neighbour (my brother) picked up the parcel.
Reading some of the comments please be carful of Compressed air and fuels !! reminds me of a short cut - down the pit diesel containers were put high to let gravity feed into locos/FSVs - its was quicker to charge the container with a little air, the fuel flowed out far quicker. Spot the problem - yes !! compression / ignition is the basis for diesel engines - luckily we/they only managed to split a 56 gal drum of diesel all over the under ground garage could have been a lot worse. Will get back to report on this oil sucker ASAP
 
Had time to give the machine my own review.
Had to replace the 1/4" stubby c/a connectors for 1/4" BSP or long nose ones to be able to use my compressor.
So far it works on, Yaris MK1, Toyota van, golf mk 3, Honda 2.2 diesel civic and CRV. performance - took 4min to completely drain the golf.
Glad I bought it "yes" it going to save time in the long run, wear on my knees and no more removing plastic panels to get to sump plugs, no more up the scaffold board on the ramps because todays lower cars hitting the ramp before the tyres get there. So for once its " does what it says on the tin". yes I'm please I purchased it. If you are in Ponte area have a look before you buy.

re-Cap:- - the machine is not too good draining out of Toyota 2.2 D4D engines in the new civic - estimate 70% out so 30% old oil stays in !! so if you can get to the sump plug do so. other than that if it is below oil level they suck !.
 
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