Using resin in wood turning

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JBaz

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I have some ides for filling routed pockets in wood blanks with coloured resin before turning them on the lathe.

The pockets are 6-8mm deep and the bottom would be removed in the turning to make the resin visible from top and bottom.

For my first attempt I have used a polyester casting resin with a 1.5% hardener to resin mix, which at the time of posting is still curing (I think - it was poured 5 days ago) and I'm not sure how much longer to leave it

IMG_6756.jpg


I would be interested to hear from anybody who uses resin in wood turning to better understand which resin they use and how long they leave it to cure.

Also, what additive to use to give a metallic look to the resin.

Thanks
 
I dont use resins in my woodturning but every thread I've seen here and videos on YouTube all say the temperature of the room you keep it in will affect the curing of the resin, are you sure you got the ratio of part A and B correct?
 
I have some ides for filling routed pockets in wood blanks with coloured resin before turning them on the lathe.

The pockets are 6-8mm deep and the bottom would be removed in the turning to make the resin visible from top and bottom.

For my first attempt I have used a polyester casting resin with a 1.5% hardener to resin mix, which at the time of posting is still curing (I think - it was poured 5 days ago) and I'm not sure how much longer to leave it

View attachment 154249

I would be interested to hear from anybody who uses resin in wood turning to better understand which resin they use and how long they leave it to cure.

Also, what additive to use to give a metallic look to the resin.

Thanks
I assume 1.5% is the correct amount of hardener. As Stigmorgan said, you have to be super precise about quantities, and let it set somewhere not too cold or damp.

For metal effects, the culr range of pigments from glasscast is good. They do a nice silver. Alternatively you can use metal powder - powdered aluminium or copper both look great. It takes a bit of trial end error to get the ratio right. Too thin and it looks plastic and the powder settles out. Too thick and it is difficult to get it into all crevices. Metal powder also seems to catalyse the setting, so it will go off quicker. Get it right and it looks almost like solid metal.
 
I have only turned pens that have cast resins. You used polyester resin with the MEKP harder. While easy but stinky to use it has the biggest disadvantage of having a 7% shrinkage ratio. That means there is the possibility it can let go of the wood. My wife did clear cast pens with Japanese papers, watch parts and feathers etc, using polyester casting resin and she used the minimum of harder to reduce the brittleness. After a day in the mould it had a sticky surface so she heat cured it in a warming drawer. Metal drawer with an old waffle/sandwich iron opened flat on the warm setting. The blanks held above on sticks and only in it for about 10 minutes. When they cooled the resin was set a few hour later and the stickiness gone. Otherwise leave it several days to a week in a warm area.

Epoxy deep casting resin (not the bar top stuff) and polyurethane resins only have shrinkage ratios of about 1%. They do have their own special working procedures. Some have very short open times (good for colour mixing not blending) and/or the need for pressure pots to control bubbles. They are also more expensive than the polyester resins.

Pete
 
I have some ides for filling routed pockets in wood blanks with coloured resin before turning them on the lathe.

The pockets are 6-8mm deep and the bottom would be removed in the turning to make the resin visible from top and bottom.

For my first attempt I have used a polyester casting resin with a 1.5% hardener to resin mix, which at the time of posting is still curing (I think - it was poured 5 days ago) and I'm not sure how much longer to leave it

View attachment 154249

I would be interested to hear from anybody who uses resin in wood turning to better understand which resin they use and how long they leave it to cure.

Also, what additive to use to give a metallic look to the resin.

Thanks
It is worth buying the book “Woodturning with Resin” £13.99 on Amazon to answer some of the questions you pose to undertake resin work.
AA1D6518-53C3-4C13-8164-EB712161CAA4.png
 
I have some ides for filling routed pockets in wood blanks with coloured resin before turning them on the lathe.

The pockets are 6-8mm deep and the bottom would be removed in the turning to make the resin visible from top and bottom.

For my first attempt I have used a polyester casting resin with a 1.5% hardener to resin mix, which at the time of posting is still curing (I think - it was poured 5 days ago) and I'm not sure how much longer to leave it

View attachment 154249

I would be interested to hear from anybody who uses resin in wood turning to better understand which resin they use and how long they leave it to cure.

Also, what additive to use to give a metallic look to the resin.

Thanks
I buy from here Epoxy resin, 2K silicone, paints, pigments + accessories I pour about 0.5cm at a time and use metallic powders to colour the resin. You only need a tiny amount of the powder to colour a large amount of resin. I also use acrylic paint for block colour
 
Having read a thread on this forum about the dangers of epoxy dust (and polyester is worse as far as I know) please take care when machining it and when disposing of the dust/shavings!
I've just been asked to make a river-type table and I'm going to use machined glass instead of resin because of this issue.
Good article. Some is overkill, but goes to show, wear a mask! And for all the pen turners out there, use a mask when turning or especially when sanding.

https://www.ehn.org/epoxy-resin-health-risks-2657288685.html
 

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