using oils

[sooty]

I bought some Teak Oil and some Danish Oil at the weekend to use on my turned pieces I turned a shallow bowl 9ins wide by 2ins deep in Parana Pine to try out the oils and sanded down to 1200 grit.

When it came to the finish I was nervous of putting the oil onto the wood?
Reasons
1 I have never used oil before
2 I did not know which oil to use
3 Didn't know if I would get a shine with the oil
4 Did not know if the oil would leave a residue after it had been standing on furniture for some time
So I deciced to use Acrylic spray like I usually do to retain the shine
HELP?
How do I use the oils?
Which oil do I use?
Whats the finnish like i.e. does it shine?
Will it leave a residue?

Phil

 

[Russell]

This is my method.

I put the oils on bare wood liberally, allow ten minutes to soak in and then wipe off the surplus. Allow the oils to dry and then cut back with wire wool or finishing pad (finishing pads from 2000g to 4000 grit). I then put on extra coats repeating the process until I have applied 4 or 5 coats to obtain a lustre. If I want a gloss oil finish I have put 15 coats of danish oil to achieve this. I polish the last coat with 4000 grit finishing pads called abralon
these are foam backed pads used by paint sprayers

I would polish a dry oil coat with a light spray wax if it was a little dull.

I do not use any sanding sealer's and I'm not sure if an acrylic would work if applied onto or underneath an oil coat.

 

[JackL]

I'd just endorse what Russell says and particularly with the use of wire wool. You can get a beautiful lustre on the finished piece by this method.
If you are worried about oil residue on furniture, could I suggest that you do what "The Managing Director" (my wife) does with my turned pieces and use a self adhesive felt on the foot. It certainly finishes off the pieces very nicely.
Give it a go with the oils - you may find as I did that you will get to prefer a natural oil or wax finish to a shiny acrylic or friction polish finish.

 

[geoff_tulip]

i agree with russell
4-5 coats of danish or teak oil will do the job - first coat is the heaviest as it will absorb quickly - other coats need little more than a wipe - rub down in between coats- abralon is good but even 1200 grit will do. Danish oil for a medium sheen and teak for a higher gloss. Oiling is best done off the lathe away from the dusty shed an besides several coats will take a long time to apply - i leave my work for 1-2 weeks for the oil to harden - avois wrapping the item directly in bubble wrap before it hardens as the bubble wrap will 'melt' with contact with the oil and ruin the finish...

for salad finish mineral oil will give a low sheen soft finish - easyier to apply - just slap it on and rub it off - several times will do - it does not harden like other oils and will be 'greasy' on table tops etc

 

[sooty]

This is my method.

I polish the last coat with 4000 grit finishing pads called abralon
.

Can I ask where you buy abralon?

Thanks for your answers I definitely will give it a go

 

[Losos]

Hi Sooty,

I'm a newbie in the turning lark too I did try using Teak oil but I think I messed it up by putting a beeswax polish on top which didn't work, it seemed to stay sticky and I didn't like the finish at all.

I might well have done it wrong but unless someone comes back and tells me I would urge caution about using beeswax on top of oil.

This is hinted at above also.

 

[Mark Hancock]

Hi Sooty,

I'm a newbie in the turning lark too I did try using Teak oil but I think I messed it up by putting a beeswax polish on top which didn't work, it seemed to stay sticky and I didn't like the finish at all.

I might well have done it wrong but unless someone comes back and tells me I would urge caution about using beeswax on top of oil.

This is hinted at above also.

You're better off using an oil which has drying agents in it - I'm not sure teak oil does? I've been using Rustins Danish Oil for about 18 years now and haven't found anything to beat it. But there are many other products available which are just as good. It's all down to personal preference.

With all oil finishes you must allow them to dry before carrying on further and applying wax. Also pure beeswax isn't the most suitable wax to use as it's melting point is below body temperature so with repeated handling it will start to look messy.

 

[Paul.J]

Phil.
I used Teak oil on me garden bench i made :roll:
Took ages to dry off,and i didn't like the smell of it either.
Also used Danish oil and then a wax finish on furniture pieces,which is better,but haven't used it on any turnings.
I like the sanding sealer and wax finish at the moment for my turnings
Paul.J.

 

[Wanlock Dod]

Phil,

I use tung and linseed oil a lot on my stuff, it takes an age to dry btu it seems to me that it's hard not to get things right. Just don't forget to wipe off the excess after you've had a cup of tea. Yes, it does take an age to dry, but that doesn't bother me (although I've been using a snading sealer and wax finish more recently but only for speed).

Cheers,

Dod

 

[TEP]

Hi Sooty. Most of it has already been said.

I use Danish oil, or Liberon finishing oil. Both have driers in them and do dry hard over night, as with most finishes it is far better to give 2 or 3 thin coats, rather than one thick coat. It take longer but gives a far better finish. My preference is for Liberon finishing oil because I think it doesn't darken the wood as much as Danish oil, only my opinion of course. Wipe the oil on, leave 10 mins. then wipe/buff off and leave to dry. Sand lightly with 1000grit or finer before the next coat, and so on until you are satisfied.

If you want a high shine finish you can give the item numerous coats of oil sanding lightly between each. Then when you have built up a reasonable thickness you can buff the piece with buffing cream and a mop. After you could use a coat of paste wax, although most people don't strive for a high shine finish when using oil.

You can use Lemon oil which takes ages to dry, or vegetable oil, again which takes ages to dry and could mark furniture.

 

[sooty]

Thanks for all the help
Have not really got the patience to wait weeks for something to dry
I decided to use teak oil on a bowl and after 4 days I still dont think its dry when I tried rubbing back with 1000grit it came away covered in a fatty deposit
think I will sand back and use wax on it?
next time will use Danish oil or finishing oil or maybe just stick to wax and laquer

 

[lurker]

Just to repeat a great tip I found on this forum:

Food safe oil is just liquid paraffin BP.

If you go to a place that sells horse stuff they have it.

I bought 500ml for £3.50

Make sure its BP (British Pharmocapea) and then its almost guaranteed to be the correct stuff.

 

[Losos]

With all oil finishes you must allow them to dry before carrying on further and applying wax. Also pure beeswax isn't the most suitable wax to use as it's melting point is below body temperature so with repeated handling it will start to look messy.

Thanks Mark, yes, as usual I was in a rush and I did not let the oil dry and yes it was pure beeswax

Will know better next time :lol:

 

[CHJ]

Just to repeat a great tip I found on this forum:
Food safe oil is just liquid paraffin BP.

The only difference is that the version sold for woodwork is a light (thinner) version which soaks in and dries a little quicker than the usual medicinal variety.