Using A Shooting Board For Window And House Door Sections.

[pollys13]

Sorry to seem a bit of a dink but I'll ask anyway.
I have a precision Hultafors Fisco tape measure.
Cutting the various component parts to the correct lengths.
Should I be relying on accurate measurements, then accurate cutting on the table saw, chop saw and that will be enough?
Or will I also be needing to fine tune, as it were, using a shooting board and a suitable plane?
Thanks.

 

[Peter Sefton]

You should be able to cut the sections off the table or chop saw, and use your plane to fit the opening lights once all glued up. A good quality sharp blade and well set up machines should do the job for you.

Cheers Peter

 

[pollys13]

OK thanks Peter, that's clear then.

 

[PAC1]

Once you have drawn the window on your "rod" there should be no need for your tape measure as all measurements should be transferred from the rod. Thereafter as Peter Sefton says the saw should be accurate. If you are cutting multiple components to the same length a stop on the fence ensures that they are all the same length.

 

[ColeyS1]

Do you mean cutting the tenon shoulders, or just roughly cutting each part to length ? Your machines should be accurate enough to give repeatable results- the scale may be slightly out, but it should be slightly out everytime, by the same amount.
An example is the length stop on my table saw always cuts 1mm shorter than it reads. It's more of a faff to try and correct it, but I know it's consistently out by 1mm everytime so isn't an issue.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[pollys13]

Once you have drawn the window on your "rod" there should be no need for your tape measure as all measurements should be transferred from the rod. Thereafter as Peter Sefton says the saw should be accurate. If you are cutting multiple components to the same length a stop on the fence ensures that they are all the same length.

Cheers.

 

[pollys13]

Do you mean cutting the tenon shoulders, or just roughly cutting each part to length ? Your machines should be accurate enough to give repeatable results- the scale may be slightly out, but it should be slightly out everytime, by the same amount.
An example is the length stop on my table saw always cuts 1mm shorter than it reads. It's more of a faff to try and correct it, but I know it's consistently out by 1mm everytime so isn't an issue.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Hi Coley
I mean't, just roughly cutting each part to length. My table saw is nice and tightly set up. I bought a Rider 92 shoulder plane a while back, as well as a No 5 Jack, a Rider Dulux low angle block plane and a QS smoother, I bought yonks ago when someone said I'd quite probably need one to tidy up any planer ripple.

Rutlands did have the Quangsheng low angle... rabbet.. block plane on a sale, £49.95 in vat but out of stock but still have the other QS planes on sale price. I did see several people thought very highly of Faithfull planes and at an incredibly reasonable but don@t do a low angle rebate block. Am ringing Rutlands Monday to see if restocking it and at same price, if yes then will hold on till it comes back in. If no then the only other people I've found who stock it are Workshop Heaven, at £69.95 and will buy on Monday. Looked on past bidding history on Ebay £77 used + p&p

Thinking about it and also reading up a bit, the low angle rebate plane seems ideal for cleaning up any machining marks on the rebates made by the spindle moulder. Also for any fine tuning of big wide house door tenon cheeks that might need to be done. I've been watching the available YouTubes on reading the grain direction in timber, as regards use of surface planer and thicknesser. I did read a Paul sellers blog where he mention using a plane to clean up any marks left by the spindle when making rebates, though he didn't say a block plane.

Uum, think I'm getting quite a good idea of how things come together.
I know Coley, too much thinking..... not enough doing ..... Stay tuned.

 

[RobinBHM]

Mostly in joinery the accuracy is dependent on shoulder lengths not cut ends of parts.

Window frames rely on accuracy of mortice positions on cill and head and shoulders on jambs, mullions etc.

I would either set out measurements from a rod of from cumulative measurements from a drawing.

 

[mikefab]

Don't worry about cleaning up those rebates... bung a double glazing unit and some beading in them and they will never be seen again!

With regard to the length question, I think it depends on how you are cutting the tenons. If you are cutting them using some sort of repeatable machine process (e.g. spindle with tenon discs or shoulders on the TS with a lowered riving knife) then the overall length needs to be bang on as the length between the shoulders as referred to by Robin will be dictated by the overall length as the tenons lengths will always be the same.

Even so, getting the pairs of components exactly the same is more important than having them conform to an exact measurement. Because then the sashes or frames come out square. So cutting the lengths using some sort of repeatable process using a length stop as has already been suggested is the way to go.

If you are cutting the tenons by hand then the overall length of components is less critical but the distance in between the shoulders is what really matters as this is of course the distance between the stiles (or the cill and the head in the case of a frame). This can be marked out by ganging up all similar components and marking across then with a knife. If you have many to make then repeatable processes which avoid the need to mark out will save a good chunk of time.

 

[pollys13]

Don't worry about cleaning up those rebates... bung a double glazing unit and some beading in them and they will never be seen again!

I was thinking of the frame rebates in which the sashes will open and close into. I'll be cutting the tenons on my 16 inch bandsaw.
Cheers for detailed reply.

 

[mikefab]

Don't worry about cleaning up those rebates... bung a double glazing unit and some beading in them and they will never be seen again!

I was thinking of the frame rebates in which the sashes will open and close into. I'll be cutting the tenons on my 16 inch bandsaw.
Cheers for detailed reply.

Oh OK!