Update: New shooting board to go with my Philly Plane

[Paul Chapman]

.... do you plane one handed and hold the piece with the other or do you clamp and plane two handed?

Never clamp the wood - you need to move it along after every shaving, so you hold the plane with one hand and the other supports the workpiece Take up Karl's offer if you've not used a shooting board before - DC's DVD is a good one.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[woodbloke]

Plenty of excellent info hereabouts on shooters. If you've got one of Philly's specials a shooting board is a must have accessory - Rob

 

[swagman]

Stewie
I am indeed Welsh, and as I come from South Wales, known by the Evil English as a Taff. :lol:
Fortunately I can speak their language so can move about amongst them incognito :wink:
Cheers
Philly

Hi Philly.

Thanks for the explanation.

Take care not to get in the way of Bugbears longbow.


Stewie.

 

[Ironballs]

You should hear what we can do to Aussies if they stray across our path 8)

 

[Vann]

You should hear what we can do to Aussies if they stray across our path 8)

Because this is a woodwork forum, shooting Philly may only be done with a plane (put away that longbow - especially if it's fibreglass) on a shooting board.

Fortunately us Kiwis were never convicts, so I look forward to safe passage next trip to Blighty. :wink:

Cheers, Vann.

 

[bugbear]

All thoughts appreciated though and here are a couple of pics to how siting options

I have found my one-and-only reference to shuteing planes, in the 1919 Preston Catalogue

It's hard to know how accurate the illustrations are - certainly the perspective of the smaller one is woeful - but it's all I can find, so take what you can.

I do find the sheer size of them a little surprising - 22" long (all models) up to a 3" wide iron, and extensive plating (optional). Skew mouths are much in evidence, for those prepared to pay.

It looks like Preston were catering to people doing industrial amounts of shooting.

BugBear

 

[Ironballs]

Just thought I'd post an update, my Philly plane is now fettled and has seen some action though I've yet to screw on the handle - but I do know where it's to be sited.

However, what use is a shooting plane without a shooting board? I finally got round to making mine, originally I was going to use ply or MDF but too much studying of Derek's site turned me to a nice stable hardwood.

Whilst at Mr T's offcut sale a few weeks back I picked up a forlorn irokok board for a couple of quid and married it with some mahogany offcuts I had plus some slightly more expensive mahogany I had to get. Board is made from the iroko with mahogany fence and bench stop, mitre and donkey's kn I mean ear are from mahogany. Bit of a faff when you're having difficulty convincing your tablesaw to cut at the advertised angle. Still, lots of hand planing and measuring so a good lesson in accuracy and use of hand tools, just need to put it into use now - elm box on standby...

 

[p111dom]

I've been dying to ask for ages but as I don't yet have a shooting board, I puzzled by one thing. What stops the plane from plaining away the shooting board itself rather than just the stock? I would have thought this would be more of a problem on a wide board. All SB's seem to have a lip or ledge which I up to now have presumed the plane runs along but is this not the case? I had thought that a shooting board was to get the edge straight but is it more that a shooting board is to get the face more square than straight or both?

 

[Ironballs]

Dom, have a look at the top pic where you can see I've run in the shooting board with the plane. First time you use the board you will plane away a thin sliver, however after that the plane will run on the edge that is sited below the blade - which is why you never use a full width blade/plane on a shooting board.

Alf's site gives a nice diagramatical explanation

 

[p111dom]

Ok, that makes sense. So you effectively let the plane make its own rebate before you use it propper. Its just on most of the pics, its hard to see this rebate which is why I couldn't figure it out. Thanks for that.

 

[woodbloke]

Dom, have a look at the top pic where you can see I've run in the shooting board with the plane. First time you use the board you will plane away a thin sliver, however after that the plane will run on the edge that is sited below the blade - which is why you never use a full width blade/plane on a shooting board.

Alf's site gives a nice diagramatical explanation

...that's provided you don't tip it. Difficult with a Phillyplane or LN No9 but stranger things have been known to happen - Rob

 

[Escudo]

Hello fellas,

I have also been working on a new shooting board. Here are a few pics.

Here you can see the wearing strip insert just sticking out.

A close up of the insert and my basic handywork.

The board is made from a sample piece of floor covering I stumbled on at the homebase. It only cost £4, in effect it is a veneered piece of mdf with a lacquered finish. I also made some pieces to trim the edge and make it look nice.

To overcome the problem of the blade cutting the board edge I made an insert which just protrudes by a mm. This was Robs idea and a jolly good one as well. I hope I have interpreted the idea correctly.

I haven't decided how to attach the fence yet. I'm not sure I need to make this adjustable. I also haven't decided if I should leave an option to be able to remove the wearing strip for periodic replacement?

A nice project and useful upgrade to go with my new iron mitre plane.

Cheers, Tony

 

[Ironballs]

Nice board and nice plane, I also pondered whether I should make the fence adjustable. Decided that it would be extra hassle to make and something else to adjust, as others have said you can introduce paper shims if you find yourself going out of square.

Re your wear strip, as long as you use the same plane you should never need to replace it

PS - that's not Tom's old plane is it?

 

[Paul Chapman]

Very nice, Tony. I don't know whether that's the finished size you were planning to have the fence, but I would reduce the height if it a bit. At the moment it it sticks up further than the plane blade. You are unlikely to ever shoot pieces that thick on a shooting board.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Escudo]

I also don't think there is much point in making the fence adjustable. I was wondering whether to have a fixing point at 45 for mitres. Alternatively I can make a triangle to attach. Not sure.

Your quite right paul the fence is too high. I was mulling over lowering it a bit and adding a chamfer. This would make it a bit easier to grip when holding pieces.

I think I will somehow make it so the wearing strip can be removed just in case it needs replacing, although I accept it should last for a long time, particularly given that the blade doesn't touch it.

The iron mitre plane is an excellent addition to my arsenal (I nearly used the c word then). I managed to acquire the plane at the recent tool auction in Bedford.

I will post some more pics when she is finished.

Cheers, Tony.

 

[Paul Chapman]

I was wondering whether to have a fixing point at 45 for mitres. Alternatively I can make a triangle to attach. Not sure.

Might be better to make a separate shooting board for 45 degree mitres. If you were making, say, a picture frame, where you have a mitre at each end of each piece of wood, you might want to make the board so that you could use the plane on the left or the right side of the board. The alternative is to make two 45 degree shooting boards - one left-hand and the other right-hand, which is what I'm doing.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Ironballs]

I went for the separate triangle option. Forgot you got the Bedford iron mitre, bit of a bargain you had there

Still wondering if my donkeys ear is a bit big

 

[Escudo]

Gosh Paul three shooting boards. That is excellent. Left and right handed a matching pair, as you say perfect for picture frames.

On another note are you planning to go to the hand tool event at West Dean, early in June? It is another long trip for me, but I have some business in that area if I could arrange it to fit.

Tony

 

[Paul Chapman]

On another note are you planning to go to the hand tool event at West Dean, early in June?

Yes, I'll be there - be nice to meet up again

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Escudo]

yes IB it was a good buy.

Donkeys ears always seem big. I guess thay have to be by design. Funny term as well.

Tony.