UKWorkshop getting on the YouTube bandwagon?

gidon · 5 Jul 2008

Hi JS
Very glad you enjoyed the videos and even got something from them! It's definately easier not grinding right to the edge of the chisel - the honed edge makes it easy to check progress and there's less risk of burning the tip.
Cheers
Gidon

Steve Maskery · 27 Jan 2009

Don't you just love it when someone resurrects a long-dead thread?

Some of you may have seen an article I wrote in British Woodworking a few issues ago. It was rather immodestly called the Ultimate Tablesaw Tenon Jig.

Well since I made the original it has undergone a couple of generations of improvements (does that mean it is now the Ultimate-Post-Ultimate?). I've made a film of it and a trailer can be seen here. If you've seen the original article you can see that the base is a bit more complex here; it has an extra layer which makes it possible to have a fine adjuster on the back (although you can't see that in the trailer).

There is an advert at the end, so stop watching after about 8 minutes if you wish to avoid it!

Enjoy
Steve

gidon · 27 Jan 2009

Brilliant Steve! And great video too. One thing - apart from for cutting offset cheeks, is there any advantage of this design and the FWW you show where the two cheek cuts are adjusted independently, over just rotating the piece to cut the other cheek?
Cheers
Gidon

wizer · 27 Jan 2009

gidon":alm1fxr9 said:
One thing - apart from for cutting offset cheeks, is there any advantage of this design and the FWW you show where the two cheek cuts are adjusted independently, over just rotating the piece to cut the other cheek?
Cheers
Gidon

Does that method require you to cut tenons first? I thought the idea was to cut mortises first and then tenons to fit?

(I've never machine cut an M&T joint)

Steve Maskery · 27 Jan 2009

gidon":1iitf0xy said:
is there any advantage of this design and the FWW you show where the two cheek cuts are adjusted independently, over just rotating the piece to cut the other cheek?

Hi Gidon
Yes there is. If you turn the workpiece round then you are referencing off two cheeks instead of just one. If the workpieces vary in thickness, even slightly, then the tenons will vary too. It's the weakness of 2 of the three router tenon jigs too.

Also you may well want the tenons to be offset in the thickness of the workpiece, either because the mortice wasn't cut centrally or because you want to avoid one tenon interfering with another.

Hi Wizer
Yes the mortice is cut first, then the tenon cut to match. I make a test tenon first, to get the position about right, then measure how far out it is and use the fine adjuster to get it spot on. Using an M6 leadscrew means that I have to adjust it only once for the whole batch.

Cheers
Steve