Two fused switches. Help

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Essentially the ceiling roses are replaced with jb's and instead of a T&E down to the switch you drop a three core & E . Now you use the Grey instead of the Blue for the neutral and Brown live with Black switched to light.


The bonus is that we have Wago connectors and no longer need that horrible chocolate block we had for decades, also if used in the right enclosure they are maintenance free.
We only drop a 2 core (red/white) from the light fitting here (no neutral or earth required for the dropper) for a single switch with lights having a 3 core TPE running from light fitting to light fitting, with a loop at the light for the two core dropper to the switch (that took some getting used to- all backboxes/switch boxes etc here are plastic, switches have no earth and are effectively 'double insulated' with no exposed metal pentrating the enclosure)
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Note that although those are again BC batten bases, the same applies for LED lamps, fluros. downlights etc- in both you can see the 'red and white' switch dropper, with the reds connected together in the 'loop' terminal- a 'spare' connection point that doesn't electrically connect to anything- its just an 'inbuilt joiner' block for allowing the joining of the droppers without the need for a seperate junction box...
 
Hi all,

I have a washing machine and tumble dryer under a worktop plugged into a double
Socket also under the worktop. What I would like to do is put two or a double isolated or fused switch above the work top. The cables to the socket won’t reach for me to connect to the new switches so some cable joining is required. I have searched the internet for a wiring diagram with no success, can some kind person please do me a quick sketch to guide me in the right direction.

Big thanks.
Others have made sensible suggestions as to the wiring but I am not sure if you want to control each appliance separately from above the worktop? I had a similar issue with my previous kitchen and I built this which I am now selling. The timeswitch replaces a flush mounted double socket. Not only can you use the twin flex with a low current 1 gang switch to isolate both tumble dryer and washing machine from above the worktop but you can also use the timeswitch (or replace it with a smart relay) to control when they come on to take advantage of economy 7 or low nighttime tariffs. If you were aiming to control each appliance separately then this wont help.
(Note to site admin- Hope I am not breaking any forum rules to self-promote sales)
 
but I am not sure if you want to control each appliance separately from above the worktop?
Unfortunately that is best practice, as I said they do not have to be directly above the worktop and could be grouped using grid switches.

but you can also use the timeswitch (or replace it with a smart relay) to control when they come on to take advantage of economy 7 or low nighttime tariffs.
A lot of washing machines have this feature built in, our Bosch allows us to set a time for it to start.
 
Essentially the ceiling roses are replaced with jb's and instead of a T&E down to the switch you drop a three core & E . Now you use the Grey instead of the Blue for the neutral and Brown live with Black switched to light.


The bonus is that we have Wago connectors and no longer need that horrible chocolate block we had for decades, also if used in the right enclosure they are maintenance free.
I'm sure Wagos are very good, and convenient, chocolate block connectors, however, are still useful and do the same job. and in the right enclosure are mountable and maintenance free. They have a very good safety record, in my experience. No doubt choc blocks will fade away but Wagos, and similar connectors, have yet to prove themselves in the long term.
 
Actually choc blocks dont have that good a safety record, and have caused many issues with high resistance joints causing damage over the years- in some cases causing the risk of fires...
Thermal cycling can cause them to become high resistance longterm...
Indeed just last week, I had to replace and repair a offgrid system that had suffered major damage from failed choc block connectors with multiple failures in various controllers and monitors- from several different brands
I'm sure Wagos are very good, and convenient, chocolate block connectors, however, are still useful and do the same job. and in the right enclosure are mountable and maintenance free. They have a very good safety record, in my experience. No doubt choc blocks will fade away but Wagos, and similar connectors, have yet to prove themselves in the long term.
 
but Wagos, and similar connectors, have yet to prove themselves in the long term.
They already have, being a pre tensioned connector with no tool required means that unlike chocolate blocks they cannot be overtightened or come loose which has resulted in thermal events. A chocolate block never has or ever will be classed as maintenance free, getting rid of the need to tighten screws is great and chocy blocks just like ring mains are obsolete and becoming part of history. Wago TopJob and are widely used for control systems on DIN rails with vast amounts of wiring because they are trouble free, it can take hours to fault find an intermittent connection, they are also neat and tidy as shown.

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KISS, ( keep it simple stupid )
Thank you all for your help and advise but I think for a utility room I've been over complicating what is really a simple process so what I've decided to do is
move the sockets above the work top put two cable tidies in and put the plugs up through the worktop. It's not what I want to do but as it's just a utility this is the quickest and cheapest solution.
 

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They already have, being a pre tensioned connector with no tool required means that unlike chocolate blocks they cannot be overtightened or come loose which has resulted in thermal events. A chocolate block never has or ever will be classed as maintenance free, getting rid of the need to tighten screws is great and chocy blocks just like ring mains are obsolete and becoming part of history. Wago TopJob and are widely used for control systems on DIN rails with vast amounts of wiring because they are trouble free, it can take hours to fault find an intermittent connection, they are also neat and tidy as shown.

View attachment 192480
Thank you Spectric, I will be using Wagos when I move the plug socket up as I will need to connect all the cables where the socket is at the moment and then blank it off.
 
Others have made sensible suggestions as to the wiring but I am not sure if you want to control each appliance separately from above the worktop? I had a similar issue with my previous kitchen and I built this which I am now selling. The timeswitch replaces a flush mounted double socket. Not only can you use the twin flex with a low current 1 gang switch to isolate both tumble dryer and washing machine from above the worktop but you can also use the timeswitch (or replace it with a smart relay) to control when they come on to take advantage of economy 7 or low nighttime tariffs. If you were aiming to control each appliance separately then this wont help.
(Note to site admin- Hope I am not breaking any forum rules to self-promote sales)
Thank you for your reply Fozzy Bear.
 
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