p111dom
Established Member
Thanks for that Colin I'll save this thread for future reference. Keep it up!!!
Twin Guitar Projects (Solid Body Electric)
- Thread starter ByronBlack
- Start date
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ByronBlack
Established Member
Simon, thats some lovely looking wood, thanks for the offer, I'll have to mull it over if thats ok, I don't want to make a rash decision after all this effort, but it certainly looks fantastic! Out of interest, did you veneer your headstock?
Dom, I forgot to answer your other question. With regards the neck template, all it does is add the correct taper, you have to work this out yourself depending on a number of factors such as; string spread on bridge, nut width, how much space you want on the edge of the fretboard etc..
Basically, you need to decide what hardware and string-spread you are going to use and then using these values draw it out and the length of the fingerboard - this will depend on what scale length you are using. I'm using the gibson compensated scale length and only using 22 frets instead of 24, so my neck is shorter than say a strat neck, it can be a minefield to work out, but stew-macs has a fret spacing calculator to help you work these things out.
To stick the template on, I just used double sided tape, you have to makesure that all your centre lines line up, and with a pre-radiused board you have to be careful because the template is only stuck on in the middle so it has the potential to rock either side of the radius if you push down to hard during the routing. Ideally, you would do this on a non-radiused fretboard, and then add the radius in afterwards.
Dom, I forgot to answer your other question. With regards the neck template, all it does is add the correct taper, you have to work this out yourself depending on a number of factors such as; string spread on bridge, nut width, how much space you want on the edge of the fretboard etc..
Basically, you need to decide what hardware and string-spread you are going to use and then using these values draw it out and the length of the fingerboard - this will depend on what scale length you are using. I'm using the gibson compensated scale length and only using 22 frets instead of 24, so my neck is shorter than say a strat neck, it can be a minefield to work out, but stew-macs has a fret spacing calculator to help you work these things out.
To stick the template on, I just used double sided tape, you have to makesure that all your centre lines line up, and with a pre-radiused board you have to be careful because the template is only stuck on in the middle so it has the potential to rock either side of the radius if you push down to hard during the routing. Ideally, you would do this on a non-radiused fretboard, and then add the radius in afterwards.
p111dom
Established Member
Thanks again!
ByronBlack":1he7vqms said:
No worries BB. If you want a piece, PM me your address and I will pop one in the post.
I haven't veneered my headstock yet, but I am going to use the ebony when I get round to it.
ByronBlack
Established Member
thanks simon, thats very kind of you, I'll mull it over the next few nights and let you know 
ByronBlack
Established Member
Neck carving!
This is one of the stages I was probably more worried about, not really about the process, but the potential to end up with a neck profile that gives me cramp - which I've had over the years with various guitars; usually skinny 'Ibanez JEM' style necks hurt my hands. Actually, the maple neck you see in some of these photo's for my other project is actually a skinny neck, but alas it's not for me so I don't have to worry about playing it!
The aim for me today was to just get the rough carve done, to remove the excess square stock and to work out the heal and headstock transitions, once that section is complete, I'll make up some templates of a profile that I want ('59 Les Paul) as used on beautiful gibson explorer I used to own, it was a joy to use! Because I have thick hands that cramp easily I prefer more neck wood to fill my hand more - makes it easier for me to play, I'm quite tactile with the neck rather being all fingers and thumbs!
So, here's the pics of todays work:
Square neck blank ready for carving, transition points drawn on
First transition brought to height, this and the heal transition act as 'gauges' for the rest of the neck.
Heal transition being rasped into shape
Finished heal section
Using a spokeshave to 'join the dots' of the two gauges, knocking of the edges first and then blending the meat of neck with the two ends
Further rasping/spokeshaving and a little sanding of 80 grit brings me to stage 1 of the rough carve
You can see in comparison how much more chunky my neck is with the maple one, also my neck generally is wider at the nut end which will result in a wider string spread and increased ease in playing for someone with larger hands/fingers like me, i'm not quite sausage fingered but I do prefer a little more space between the strings.
Tomorrow should see the shape and profile refined and sanded upto around 800 grit and a couple of sealer coats to go on and then sanded upto 2000grit/0000 steel wool until uber smooth! I've also received my fretting tools from Stew Macs (only 2 days since ordering again - amazing service!) so I migh get time to start that process
I've yet to decide on the front headstock veneer, I think i'll apply some finish to the spalted maple and see how that looks before making a final judgement.
This is one of the stages I was probably more worried about, not really about the process, but the potential to end up with a neck profile that gives me cramp - which I've had over the years with various guitars; usually skinny 'Ibanez JEM' style necks hurt my hands. Actually, the maple neck you see in some of these photo's for my other project is actually a skinny neck, but alas it's not for me so I don't have to worry about playing it!
The aim for me today was to just get the rough carve done, to remove the excess square stock and to work out the heal and headstock transitions, once that section is complete, I'll make up some templates of a profile that I want ('59 Les Paul) as used on beautiful gibson explorer I used to own, it was a joy to use! Because I have thick hands that cramp easily I prefer more neck wood to fill my hand more - makes it easier for me to play, I'm quite tactile with the neck rather being all fingers and thumbs!
So, here's the pics of todays work:
Square neck blank ready for carving, transition points drawn on
First transition brought to height, this and the heal transition act as 'gauges' for the rest of the neck.
Heal transition being rasped into shape
Finished heal section
Using a spokeshave to 'join the dots' of the two gauges, knocking of the edges first and then blending the meat of neck with the two ends
Further rasping/spokeshaving and a little sanding of 80 grit brings me to stage 1 of the rough carve
You can see in comparison how much more chunky my neck is with the maple one, also my neck generally is wider at the nut end which will result in a wider string spread and increased ease in playing for someone with larger hands/fingers like me, i'm not quite sausage fingered but I do prefer a little more space between the strings.
Tomorrow should see the shape and profile refined and sanded upto around 800 grit and a couple of sealer coats to go on and then sanded upto 2000grit/0000 steel wool until uber smooth! I've also received my fretting tools from Stew Macs (only 2 days since ordering again - amazing service!) so I migh get time to start that process
I've yet to decide on the front headstock veneer, I think i'll apply some finish to the spalted maple and see how that looks before making a final judgement.
ByronBlack
Established Member
Tom, your right, working a shape like this by hand is very rewarding, and surprisingly easy, it's a lot more straight forward than I thought it would be.
Here's todays progress:
Sanded to 400 grit
Single coat of danish oil
Close ups of the transitions
With the weekend coming up, I'm confident of getting the headstock issue resolved, some more finish of the neck, the fret-board sanded and oiled, and of course the frets installed! Its getting quite exciting now!
Simon, I think your going to be really pleased with your LP, this Walnut is similar to yours and is looking really good with just a bit of finish on. What finish are you going to use for yours?
Here's todays progress:
Sanded to 400 grit
Single coat of danish oil
Close ups of the transitions
With the weekend coming up, I'm confident of getting the headstock issue resolved, some more finish of the neck, the fret-board sanded and oiled, and of course the frets installed! Its getting quite exciting now!
Simon, I think your going to be really pleased with your LP, this Walnut is similar to yours and is looking really good with just a bit of finish on. What finish are you going to use for yours?
This is all progressing far too quickly BB. Where are the mistakes?
The Walnut LP is actually my brother in law's. Mine is Yew. I think he is planning on clear laquer for the Walnut. I was going to try some sort of burst on my yew, but I don't know if I have the guts. :?
The Walnut LP is actually my brother in law's. Mine is Yew. I think he is planning on clear laquer for the Walnut. I was going to try some sort of burst on my yew, but I don't know if I have the guts. :?
ByronBlack
Established Member
Simon - you can actually see a mistake in the last pics, I didn't position the veneer correctly so it doesn't fully cover the volute. I could repair this by attaching another piece of veneer, but not sure whether I should go to that trouble as it's quite a minor thing. Also, I've yet to do the fretting - could be plenty of potential mistakes lurking in that process!
As for doing a burst, there pretty easy by all accounts. I've not done one myself yet as I like natural wood finishes, but I do have a body blank for a 'metal tele' project later this year that I intend to 'burst'. I plan to use the cardboard and push-pin method, there is a tutorial on it on the main Project Guitar website looks relatively straight forward. Will you be spraying your finish?
As for doing a burst, there pretty easy by all accounts. I've not done one myself yet as I like natural wood finishes, but I do have a body blank for a 'metal tele' project later this year that I intend to 'burst'. I plan to use the cardboard and push-pin method, there is a tutorial on it on the main Project Guitar website looks relatively straight forward. Will you be spraying your finish?
Yeah, I saw the cardboard-push pin technique. Seems like quite a good idea. I only have a bandit compressor, so spraying with an air line isn't an option. I have read Stewmacs articles on spraying with cans and it seems as long as no more than half of each can is used (to avoid splatering) it should be ok. They only problem I can see is the expense, as tests will have to be carried out with colours and techniques.
Have you used spaycans before? Or do you have the kit for air spraying?
Have you used spaycans before? Or do you have the kit for air spraying?
ByronBlack
Established Member
I've not finished a guitar with cans, but I have other things (RC cars, boats and planes) to good effect, but they can be very temperamental. I have a small compressor and have borrowed an airline and gun from my dad (who sprays cars) but the fittings aren't right so I haven't had chance to try my luck at spraying. For the explorer i'm going to use a wipe on varnish called 'Arm R Seal' - it can be brushed or wiped on, dries quickly, builds well and can be buffed to a glossy finish.
The other alternative to a strong 'clear' finish is Rustins Plastic Finish, you can get amazing results with that and it can be applied with a brush - it's also a lot cheaper compared to a bunch of nitro cans.
Todays Progress:
I managed to squeeze in a couple more hours today. I removed the spalted maple veneer from the headstock, it just didn't work. I've made up some veneers from the walnut I had for the neck blank and will be using that. Thanks to Philly and Simon for your generous offers of your veneer.
It was time to turn my attentions to the fret-board. It required cleaning up and sanding, heres me using my radiused sanding block. I went through the grits upto 800grit
Once it was sanded to an almost mirror finish, I wiped on a little bit of oil to help lubricate the fretboard, it really brings out the richness of the wood and feels really silky, I can't wait to get the chance to play it.
While that was drying, it was time to turn my attentions to the body. It was quite 'rounded' and didn't really have the look of a real rock/metal explorer, so it was out with the ROS and 80 grit to sharpen up the edges, this worked remarkably well.
Then it was time to sand the body all the way upto 400grit to receive the first sealer coat:
And here's the body at the end of todays work with a single shellac sealer coat:
Tomorrow, I'll be putting another shellac coat, and then wet sand to aid in filling the grain, I should be receiving my finishing product (Arm R Seal) during the week and that will be used to give a nice strong but natural protective finish.
I'll also be sanding and sorting out the new headstock veneer as well as applying another coat of oil to the back of the neck, I'm going to leave the fretting until monday (The mrs' is at work and will allow me to concentrate without getting nagged about something or the other).
The other alternative to a strong 'clear' finish is Rustins Plastic Finish, you can get amazing results with that and it can be applied with a brush - it's also a lot cheaper compared to a bunch of nitro cans.
Todays Progress:
I managed to squeeze in a couple more hours today. I removed the spalted maple veneer from the headstock, it just didn't work. I've made up some veneers from the walnut I had for the neck blank and will be using that. Thanks to Philly and Simon for your generous offers of your veneer.
It was time to turn my attentions to the fret-board. It required cleaning up and sanding, heres me using my radiused sanding block. I went through the grits upto 800grit
Once it was sanded to an almost mirror finish, I wiped on a little bit of oil to help lubricate the fretboard, it really brings out the richness of the wood and feels really silky, I can't wait to get the chance to play it.
While that was drying, it was time to turn my attentions to the body. It was quite 'rounded' and didn't really have the look of a real rock/metal explorer, so it was out with the ROS and 80 grit to sharpen up the edges, this worked remarkably well.
Then it was time to sand the body all the way upto 400grit to receive the first sealer coat:
And here's the body at the end of todays work with a single shellac sealer coat:
Tomorrow, I'll be putting another shellac coat, and then wet sand to aid in filling the grain, I should be receiving my finishing product (Arm R Seal) during the week and that will be used to give a nice strong but natural protective finish.
I'll also be sanding and sorting out the new headstock veneer as well as applying another coat of oil to the back of the neck, I'm going to leave the fretting until monday (The mrs' is at work and will allow me to concentrate without getting nagged about something or the other).
Philly
Established Member
Looking good, Colin!
Philly
Philly
ByronBlack
Established Member
Some more progress today. I seemed be getting bogged down with quite fiddly tasks at the moment, they seem to take a long time and don't show much for a lot of time and effort, but at least it's progressing albeit slowly.
Here's what I've completed today:
- Headstock venneer cut/filed to shape and blended in
- Headstock edges sanded smooth
- Dot markers inlayed and sanded flush
- Neck flattened
- Second coat of oil added to neck
- Body wet-sanded and given a second coat of shellac
- Truss-rod rattle fixed
I checked the neck yesterday with a straight edge and was quite annoyed when I discovered that it had a slight bow in the middle, so I had to spend some time getting this down so the neck was flat, I then had to re-sand the neck a second time after I forgot to put the inlays in first, doh! I haven't lost much in thickness though so it's all fine, just very tedious and not particularly pleasant sanding this rosewood.
I also had to make a quick repair because the truss-rod brass nut was rattling a little at the back end of the neck, to fix this, I just drilled a hole in the end of the neck (body end) down to where the brass nut was, and with a thin applicator applied a little superglue to keep the nut in place, this has worked a treat.
Here's some pics of todays work:
Headstock veneer (front) brought to shape and sanded
Completed headstock veneer, makes it look a lot nicer now that you can't see the joint lines
Inlays installed and sanded
Body wet-sanded and then given a second of shellac - it's starting to have a nice satin sheen, should look better when sanded to 2000 and the first coats of oil go on
Here's what I've completed today:
- Headstock venneer cut/filed to shape and blended in
- Headstock edges sanded smooth
- Dot markers inlayed and sanded flush
- Neck flattened
- Second coat of oil added to neck
- Body wet-sanded and given a second coat of shellac
- Truss-rod rattle fixed
I checked the neck yesterday with a straight edge and was quite annoyed when I discovered that it had a slight bow in the middle, so I had to spend some time getting this down so the neck was flat, I then had to re-sand the neck a second time after I forgot to put the inlays in first, doh! I haven't lost much in thickness though so it's all fine, just very tedious and not particularly pleasant sanding this rosewood.
I also had to make a quick repair because the truss-rod brass nut was rattling a little at the back end of the neck, to fix this, I just drilled a hole in the end of the neck (body end) down to where the brass nut was, and with a thin applicator applied a little superglue to keep the nut in place, this has worked a treat.
Here's some pics of todays work:
Headstock veneer (front) brought to shape and sanded
Completed headstock veneer, makes it look a lot nicer now that you can't see the joint lines
Inlays installed and sanded
Body wet-sanded and then given a second of shellac - it's starting to have a nice satin sheen, should look better when sanded to 2000 and the first coats of oil go on
Am really looking forward to seeing this Explorer finished Colin, looks good so far. Im (still) thinking about a tele and walnut is my current first choice so as I say looking forward to seeing what yours looks like when your done.
Cheers Mike
Cheers Mike
DavidE
Established Member
Hi Colin,
That is looking good and it's very interesting to see the progress shots. One day I might get round to making an electric guitar! This thread and others are very useful.
Cheers
David
That is looking good and it's very interesting to see the progress shots. One day I might get round to making an electric guitar! This thread and others are very useful.
Cheers
David
ByronBlack
Established Member
Fretting was the order of the day this afternoon. 'twas easier than expected.
The pics:
Essential tool kit: Fret bending pliars (for radius), fret cutters, fretting hammer and the most crucial to the success of this operation; a bounty bar
Frets cut to slightly over length:
First few tentatively put in place:
All frets installed and trimmed to fingerboard:
How it looks so far:
I have to file a 35 degree angle on the ends of the frets to make them smooth, I'll also be flattening the frets so they are all level, then it's a case of re-filling the round 'crown' on each fret, polish and fret-dress and it's ready to be installed on the body.
I have received my wiring kit and sheilding, as well as some final hardware pieces (jackplates, switches etc..). The pickups are due tomorrow. With that, it brings my spending on this project to £377.72 so far, and that should be it for this project, not bad really.
For those interested, the pickups are Seymour Duncan SH-4 JB in the bridge, and a matching Seymour Duncan Jazz in the neck position (Classic heavy rock/metal combo, high output distortion/gain from the JB and glassy cleans from the Jazz). I was going to go for handwound 'Bare Knuckle' pickups, but with recently purchasing an amp, I ran out of funds and the SD's were the next best option at around half the price.
Tomorrow will see the rest of the fret work being completed, and hopefully the drilling of the mounting holes for the bridge in the body. The guitar shoud be finished by the end of the week, ready for a weekend of playing and tweaking/setting up the action and intonation.
The pics:
Essential tool kit: Fret bending pliars (for radius), fret cutters, fretting hammer and the most crucial to the success of this operation; a bounty bar
Frets cut to slightly over length:
First few tentatively put in place:
All frets installed and trimmed to fingerboard:
How it looks so far:
I have to file a 35 degree angle on the ends of the frets to make them smooth, I'll also be flattening the frets so they are all level, then it's a case of re-filling the round 'crown' on each fret, polish and fret-dress and it's ready to be installed on the body.
I have received my wiring kit and sheilding, as well as some final hardware pieces (jackplates, switches etc..). The pickups are due tomorrow. With that, it brings my spending on this project to £377.72 so far, and that should be it for this project, not bad really.
For those interested, the pickups are Seymour Duncan SH-4 JB in the bridge, and a matching Seymour Duncan Jazz in the neck position (Classic heavy rock/metal combo, high output distortion/gain from the JB and glassy cleans from the Jazz). I was going to go for handwound 'Bare Knuckle' pickups, but with recently purchasing an amp, I ran out of funds and the SD's were the next best option at around half the price.
Tomorrow will see the rest of the fret work being completed, and hopefully the drilling of the mounting holes for the bridge in the body. The guitar shoud be finished by the end of the week, ready for a weekend of playing and tweaking/setting up the action and intonation.
