TV interference

[stevebuk]

well done LW, and it just so happens i am in that area on Oct 5/6th and just may call in for a quick look, but dont want to spoil my chance of getting something cheaper at Harrogate.. :lol:

 

[Lightweeder]

I had a couple of things on my list for Harrogate - one was a large round-nosed scraper. They were selling second-hand tools for £5 and £10 at Snainton yesterday - good quality and no sign of much use, so I got them there. My guess would be someone's gone to the great workshop in the sky and left their tools behind Not many left though.

Right enough Chas - I've got some catching up to do :wink:

The speed range on the Record Power is fine, and I'll be spending most of my time on the middle belt, but it's (strangely) got no digital read-out. I find that a bit wierd, but I'll forgive it anything at the minute.

LW

 

[CHJ]

The speed range on the Record Power is fine, and I'll be spending most of my time on the middle belt, but it's (strangely) got no digital read-out. I find that a bit wierd, but I'll forgive it anything at the minute.

LW

Knock yourself up some of these discs,print, stick on a bit of stiff card or MDF and mount on a 6mm bolt.

Secure in chuck adjust lathe speed 'till disc synchronizes with mains lighting (not low energy) and note where your speed dial is.

I produced an alternate dial for my speed control marked with these findings instead of the usual 1-10.

 

[Lightweeder]

Thanks Chas - i'll hand that to my technical manager (husband) :wink: and get him to look at it for me.

LW

 

[duncanh]

You don't particularly need a speed readout - start with low speed and turn up until either vibration starts or you start to feel unsafe! Then turn down a little.

After a while you'll have a feel for where on the dial you'll need to set something for best speed.

 

[wizer]

I generally agree with Duncan about not needing the speed read out but it is useful to eliminate problems when your starting. Most pro's tell you where abouts they are turning and that certainly helps when you're wondering if you're going too slow or quick. The only other use I can think is thread chasing, but I guess even then you just learn by feel and what works.

 

[Lightweeder]

There are occasions - like when I'm using buffing wheels, that I'm not supposed to exceed a certain speed. Am I being a bit 'retentive' ?

LW

 

[CHJ]

There are occasions - like when I'm using buffing wheels, that I'm not supposed to exceed a certain speed. Am I being a bit 'retentive' ?

LW

No LW, just safety aware, several items such as cole jaws also have max speed ratings for safety, although as you have probably already found the area around 800-1000 rpm on the 200mm mops gets to be instinctive because of the level of rigidity in the mop.

I also find it helps me to appreciate why-which-when-how certain wood-tool combinations work better and then adjust the rpm as diameter differs to endeavor to keep the cutting in the sweet zone.

Nothing noted down but as with most things resulting from practice the speed selection just seems to be right more often.

 

[Lightweeder]

Chas - it's the buffing wheels I mainly have in mind. Just while we're on the subject, do you bring up the tailstock on your buffing wheels ? - it's made mincemeat out of a couple of mine and I'm now using a small dowel held in my jacobs chuck. My nice new lathe has a really spiky tailstock which I would like to keep in prime nick :wink:

LW

 

[CHJ]

LW, if your mandrel is held firmly in the chuck there should be no reason for you to use the tailstock.

The mandrel was made so solid specifically to avoid any need for tailstock support.

In fact when the new domed mops are attached to the mandrel you need the open end to allow access to the bowl internals.

 

[duncanh]

No LW, just safety aware, several items such as cole jaws also have max speed ratings for safety, although as you have probably already found the area around 800-1000 rpm on the 200mm mops gets to be instinctive because of the level of rigidity in the mop.

In the small booklet that comes with Teknatool chucks and jaws every jaw set has a maximum speed listed. In expansion mode the maximum for any set is 684rpm. In contraction the jaws I use the most have 684 for the step jaws and 684 for the powergrip. This seems way too low

 

[CHJ]

In the small booklet that comes with Teknatool chucks and jaws every jaw set has a maximum speed listed. In expansion mode the maximum for any set is 684rpm. In contraction the jaws I use the most have 684 for the step jaws and 684 for the powergrip. This seems way too low

This certainly needs clarification duncan, basically it makes no sense for normal lathe use. It's only just above the minimum speed of some lathes.

Lathe Chucks, their scroll design and of course their associated auxiliary jaw register tenon and fixing screws all have a design limit to prevent bursting under the rotational g loads, but I can't believe it would be anywhere as low as that when they are marketed for machines often capable of 3000rpm.

After all it's not unreasonable to be turning something 100mm diameter (same as chuck)at 1500rpm,

Some scroll chuck designs do have lower burst ratings due to the smaller number of scroll threads engaged (usually done to increase the jaw travel figures) and even on the better chucks is something that must be taken into consideration if operating with the jaws extended near their limits.

 

[wizer]

Chas is there anything special happening on the other end of that mandrel? Or is it just a smaller diameter rod? Could it be done in wood or acrylic?

 

[CHJ]

It's stepped Tom, hopefully to cover the majority of different chucks and jaw sets that might or might not be fitted. Larger Jaw sets can grip the main shaft and the smaller stub should pass into the chuck/spindle bore.

No it certainly could not be done with wood or acrylic, the forces that can be generated when applying pressure, even at the light loads normally used are too great.

 

[Lightweeder]

LW, if your mandrel is held firmly in the chuck there should be no reason for you to use the tailstock.

The mandrel was made so solid specifically to avoid any need for tailstock support.

In fact when the new domed mops are attached to the mandrel you need the open end to allow access to the bowl internals.

I take your point Chas - when (soon I hope) the bowl mop is available, it would have to be unsupported - mind you, it'll not be flying around quite so quickly as the outside of those mops.

I was looking at the Beale bowl mops at Snainton. From about £32 for 3, but not sure if they would fit the Chestnut mandrel, thread-wise.

Duncan - you wouldn't get much work done at those speeds, would you?

 

[Lightweeder]

Sorry, made a right muck up of that

 

[CHJ]

Sorry, made a right muck up of that

You can edit; Dear Lady, Dear Lady; you can edit; Dear Lady, Dear Lady; you can edit.

LW, if your mandrel is held firmly in the chuck there should be no reason for you to use the tailstock.
The mandrel was made so solid specifically to avoid any need for tailstock support.
In fact when the new domed mops are attached to the mandrel you need the open end to allow access to the bowl internals.

Sorry, couldn't resist. :lol:

 

[DaveL]

Sorry, made a right muck up of that

There you go I sorted it out for you.

 

[Lightweeder]

Thanks Chas and Dave - sorry, couldn't resist that :wink:

OK, before we finally give this thread a decent burial, Chas can I ask you - if you use tripoli on your abrasive wheel, a) how can you prevent the dark colouring transferring to light wood? and b) do you know of any way to clean the wheel ?

Duncan is right when he said I might have used a bit too much tripoli, but I've also got a bit of dark stain on the first wheel. Seems to me I can only use it on dark woods now

LW

 

[CHJ]

OK, before we finally give this thread a decent burial, Chas can I ask you - if you use tripoli on your abrasive wheel, a) how can you prevent the dark colouring transferring to light wood? ...

Yes LW, I use tripoli on the first wheel when buffing dark woods without any finish applied or where I want to strip a finish off, on light woods I check on a scrap piece if possible to see if the brown wax is going to embed in the pores of the wood before using it on a turned item.

I don't use Tripoli on sealed items, go straight in at the white diamond stage just to blend in any rotational build streaks I've missed.

I'm a novice at this buffing lark myself so don't know what is the 'norm' out there in the buffing world.

.. do you know of any way to clean the wheel ?

When I get contamination of the white wheel from cleaning up tripoli residue etc, I dress it with a rough sawn piece of Ash or similar to trap the wax, a sheet of coarse wet and dry also works but obviously removes mop material faster.

Duncan is right when he said I might have used a bit too much tripoli, but I've also got a bit of dark stain on the first wheel. Seems to me I can only use it on dark woods now .

I've now got more than a bit of tripoli wax colouring on my first wheel, (see previous pic. in this thread) can't see how you can have otherwise LW.

Have tried it on some old items in light wood that needed a spruce up on the finish stakes and with a light touch got away with just removing the surface with tripoli without penetrating the sealer to the wood, I think it's like any finishing process it needs the experience of practice to be able to judge what's appropriate in each instance.