TS blades again

[Tusses]

I asked for recommended brands last time.

This time I am after a combination blade, with a bias to cross cutting.

I need to get a decent blade . When I rip, I usually finish with a jointer/plane
If I can get a clean cross cut and sand to an acceptable finish that would be fine.

so - I need a 10" blade. What should I buy ???

I will buy a seperate rip and crosscut later if needed - but I am getting the opinion that a combo blade will be satisfactory to start with.

my current 'screwfix' blade from my old cheap contracter saw is dished ! I want one that will stay flat.

so .... come on .... recommend away !

Rich

 

[Digit]

Almost anything other than Screwfix! Axminster sell some pretty decent ones or go for Freud.

Roy.

 

[9fingers]

I get good results from a freud blade.
Must be about 30 teeth and im afraid I'm too lazy to swap it between ripping and cross cutting, real wood or ply/mdf or chip board.

I've got to go down to the workshop soon so i'll edit this with the blade type later.

HTH

Bob

 

[harryc]

Another vote for the Freud, although I have found the triton 40 teeth blade supplied with the saw also very good.

Harry

 

[Tusses]

yep - as for brand I will try Freud / CMT or maybe perform as a cheapy

I was imagining around 40 teeth.

I was after specific blade recommendations - i.e. a part/model number of the one you use !

thanks again -

Rich

 

[Digit]

You don't mention what you want to cut nor the arbour size Rich.

Roy.

 

[Tusses]

arbor size is 5/8 or 16mm but I have reducer rings for 30mm - so not much of an issue.

as for wood - just about everything.

Hard Wood / Soft wood and Ply (yeah - I know ! )

but still - a good blade should cut better than a bad(cheap) one ?

probably looking for a better finish on the hardwood side.

 

[Digit]

If you're prepared to pay the price I'd go for Freud's ultra fine cross cuts, they do a pretty good job on ply as well.
BUT you might well need a new riving knife as they are thin kerf blades.

Roy.

 

[Tusses]

how thin ?

my riving knife is quite thin too. I have a 2.8mm blade on now that is thicker than the one's I got with the TS.

ok - while we are on that - I had a stack of blades with the saw - but they are the old type - not carbide tipped. so havent even considered they might be good blades !

I have the full range (maybe 8 or 9 types) of cross / rip / ply / fine ...
would these be usable (i guess they are, because they were sill being used ! )

but - they would need sharpening regularly . how much would it cost to get blades sharpened ? and how often do they need doing in comparison to TCT blades ?

 

[Digit]

Can't remember the thickness now. You could Google Freud and see what you get.
Carbon steel saw blades tend to take a better edge than Carbide and thus produce a cleaner cut.
But of course they don't hold that edge as well, they also tend to be thinner so your riving knife might well be a thin one.

Roy.

 

[9fingers]

Just checked my freud blade. It is a LP30M

I happen to have a stock of 235mm ones LM30m-23
235x2.8x30 with 34 teeth.

This one http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psPro ... P30M===025
is the 250mm version 250 x 2.8 x 30 with 40 teeth.

The red teflon coating is very long lasting and seems to resist resin build up unlike uncoated blades.

HTH

Bob

 

[Tusses]

Ta !

Ive seen that one ot rutlands ... but why does it saw it's only good for portable saws ?

is it ok for Table saws ?

 

[Tusses]

also - thats a 7" or there abouts

I'm after a 10" to keep the speed correct. ??

 

[9fingers]

Ta !

Ive seen that one ot rutlands ... but why does it saw it's only good for portable saws ?

is it ok for Table saws ?

Hmm! so it does? but if you look here
http://www.powertoolspares.com/blades2. ... LP30M+025P
the same blade is listed for stationary and portable saws.

The cut depth limiter design is certainly a good idea for portable saws but I don't see why Rutlands exclude its use for table saws.

I use it in my TS and it has done a lot of good work both ripping and cross cutting.

Maybe someone else knows the answer?

Bob

 

[9fingers]

also - thats a 7" or there abouts

I'm after a 10" to keep the speed correct. ??

since when has 250mm been 7 inches?

How many fingers am I holding up?

LOL

Bob

 

[Digit]

Nope! But for fine finishes on cross cutting I would like to see more than 40 teeth on a 10 in blade.

Roy.

 

[Tusses]

HAHAHa ! LOL

I was looking at the picture of the blade !

it's got 184 printed on it !

Rich

ps - have you got 9 fingers ? or is that just your user name ?

if its 9 - then where is the other ! if you dont mind me asking ?

 

[9fingers]

I don't disagree Roy but the results with my 34 tooth/235mm blade (even less than 40/250) has been giving good results dross cutting oak, beech and iroko recently and tonight I've pushed through some 1/2" resin coated birch ply with no chipping of the resin.

Bob

 

[Tusses]

is it easy enough to sharpen the old blades yourself ? I guess like sharpening a hand saw ?

 

[9fingers]

HAHAHa ! LOL

I was looking at the picture of the blade !

it's got 184 printed on it !

Rich

ps - have you got 9 fingers ? or is that just your user name ?

if its 9 - then where is the other ! if you dont mind me asking ?

There is a story behind the 9fingers.

Nearly 3 years ago I joined this forum when off work due to an accident with my P/T. I had planed the upper surface of my middle right finger from nail to second joint. I cut though the tendon and a few mm of flesh.
The surgeon joined my damaged finger to the next door one with a flap of flesh being donated to the damaged finger from the good one complete with a blood supply from the good finger. In this way the graft is more likely to take. So for several weeks I had 8 standard fingers and one double one hence choosing my username.

Now thanks to a tendon transplant from my leg, flesh from the adjacent finger and skin grafts from my arm, I have 10 working fingers and a debt I can never repay to a surgeon called Caroline McGuiness from Salisbury Hospital. She was prepared to attempt reconstruction to full movement when the standard repair would have been to fuse the joint rigid.

Sorry i don't have any gore pictures to Wizer standards but as I am right handed, taking photos would have been difficult but I did drive my self to hospital as at the time my wife had just had a new wrist joint fitted and was in plaster herself.

Bob