Wayside2020
Established Member
Festool TS55 fantastic bit of kit. Sold my table saw and bought it with 2 1400’s.
I’ve made loads of doors it it.
Track Saw
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I’ve made loads of doors it it.
Hi
I am looking at the Makita saw, yes it is in many ways basic but then you could liken this to the old Datsun Bluebird from the eighties, basic but just kept going and easy to use. I note that
I am looking at the Makita saw, yes it is in many ways basic but then you could liken this to the old Datsun Bluebird from the eighties, basic but just kept going and easy to use. I note that
I don't know if this is just me but you say it is robust, then the rails fail to align properly but then this is a bonus and you would consider any saw where this happens, can you elaborate as it would be nice to know before I commit to the Makita.
AJB Temple
Finely figured
Very interested in your experience with the Mafell, Peter. Mine has been perfect and I am surprised that their quality control let them down as they are a premium price maker and do a lot of (very expensive) industrial tools as you know. I am just an amateur really, and I would guess that I have probably put the saw through maybe 80 sheets of plywood and MDF in total in the period since I have had it. Most of the rest of my stuff is Festool now (except sanders) as I like their system approach, but I also had an oldish Festool plunge saw (110v) which I got off eBay to try it, and I don't get on with their track system in comparison with Mafell so I sold it on.
Doug71
Established Member
This comes up so often and there really isn't a definite answer but the good thing is you can't go far wrong!
The Mafell/Bosch track system is generally thought to be best, easier to join rails and easier to change splinter strip.
Don't think anyone has mentioned riving knives, think only Festool and DeWalt have one. Do you need a riving knife on a track saw, some say yes, some say no, my Festool has got trapped in the cut a few times even with the riving knife, don't know if it would be worse without one.
My next track saw will be cordless, either Makita or Festool as I run both battery platforms, so much easier when you are not tethered and the extractor bag (on the Festool anyway) works quite well.
I have had the Festool for about 15 years, still love it but do have a 3m track so don't have the track jointing hassle that some experience.
The Mafell/Bosch track system is generally thought to be best, easier to join rails and easier to change splinter strip.
Don't think anyone has mentioned riving knives, think only Festool and DeWalt have one. Do you need a riving knife on a track saw, some say yes, some say no, my Festool has got trapped in the cut a few times even with the riving knife, don't know if it would be worse without one.
My next track saw will be cordless, either Makita or Festool as I run both battery platforms, so much easier when you are not tethered and the extractor bag (on the Festool anyway) works quite well.
I have had the Festool for about 15 years, still love it but do have a 3m track so don't have the track jointing hassle that some experience.
petermillard
Established Member
To be clear, the one I had was a demo unit on loan for a couple of months; I don't know how it had been treated until then, and obviously I can only give an opinion of the saw I have, which is why it was returned to Mafell to be checked over. I have a couple of maker/installer pals who switched to Mafell from Festool and had the same issue with bevel cuts, where the saw just wouldn't get to 45* - they both had to battle to get the saws exchanged, which wasn't what I expected from Mafell.
As I say, if I ever get the saw back I'll be sure to retest and post the results, though anecdotally from the comments on that video, about half the people commenting had the same issue I had. P
AJB Temple
Finely figured
That's interesting Peter. I have done lots of 45 degree bevel cuts tomato (edit - I didn't write tomato, I meant to make 
) small plywood boxes (just workshop stuff) and mine hits the stop dead on. I seem to recall (I haven't been in the workshop since Christmas Eve), that there is a release that allows it to go to something like 48 degrees but I may be muddling it up with another tool.
I bought mine brand new from The Saw Centre and the deal included a spare blade, systainer and two lengths of track (I have since bought more) and 4 clamps. The spare blade was missing and also the dust cap was missing from the dust collection bag (only relevant for site use to me) and Mafell directly sent me two spare blades, a new bag and two dust caps by return from Germany without any quibbling.
Perhaps I was just lucky. I have recommended the saw on the basis of my experience, but of course I do not test tools. Kind regards, Adrian
(PS I know you have also had issues with Mirka sanders. I am tempting fate here, but I have used mine (Deros) half to death and it has not missed a beat )
) small plywood boxes (just workshop stuff) and mine hits the stop dead on. I seem to recall (I haven't been in the workshop since Christmas Eve), that there is a release that allows it to go to something like 48 degrees but I may be muddling it up with another tool.I bought mine brand new from The Saw Centre and the deal included a spare blade, systainer and two lengths of track (I have since bought more) and 4 clamps. The spare blade was missing and also the dust cap was missing from the dust collection bag (only relevant for site use to me) and Mafell directly sent me two spare blades, a new bag and two dust caps by return from Germany without any quibbling.
Perhaps I was just lucky. I have recommended the saw on the basis of my experience, but of course I do not test tools. Kind regards, Adrian
(PS I know you have also had issues with Mirka sanders. I am tempting fate here, but I have used mine (Deros) half to death and it has not missed a beat
)
A long rail is pretty much a must-have at least for the Festool. I'd do the same with a Mafell even if their joiner system is better. It's less portable than two 1400s so for site work might not be the right answer, but it's so much more convenient in use. Especially as it's almost invariably necessary to switch between long and short cuts in the same task. I kicked myself for realising this (ages ago) after buying a two 1400s set, but the 3000, 1400, 800 and 400 set I ended up with is kind of perfect in covering all the bases.
johnnyb
Established Member
firstly let me say joining 2 rails for long cuts seems essential but its quite a feat to do accurately. so I suggest all but maybe mafell will struggle. People who use there saws at weekends for a few hours are probably always using sharp blades. I've found all portable tools chop saws circulars saws etc suffer great inaccuracy when using blunt blades. as soon as it take a bit of pressure to make a cut the 90 degrees of the blade can suffer as its pushing back.
I brought a p1cc expecting a new level of jigsaw cutting. not quite....is it better? a bit. maybe.
people have different expectations of stuff. im guessing the reason that there's not much difference when comparing tracksaws is because they are all manufactured
using similar parts in a similar way. to a very similar quality. buy one and start getting used to it and they will all do the job. the tracks joining together was how it was sold initially but reality said if you want long straight cuts buy a long guide rail. festool sell long guide rails so I reckon there rails are a faff to join. mafell rails might join together better but be prepared to buy a very pricy long rail if they don't. the only poo makita tool I've ever brought was an 18g nailer. its just not got enough power.
I brought a p1cc expecting a new level of jigsaw cutting. not quite....is it better? a bit. maybe.
people have different expectations of stuff. im guessing the reason that there's not much difference when comparing tracksaws is because they are all manufactured
using similar parts in a similar way. to a very similar quality. buy one and start getting used to it and they will all do the job. the tracks joining together was how it was sold initially but reality said if you want long straight cuts buy a long guide rail. festool sell long guide rails so I reckon there rails are a faff to join. mafell rails might join together better but be prepared to buy a very pricy long rail if they don't. the only poo makita tool I've ever brought was an 18g nailer. its just not got enough power.
Not really a faff, but you can't just butt them up to each other, tighten the screws and expect them to be perfect.
I use a 1.5m spirit level as a straight edge, I tighten the underside connector first whilst pulling the rails firmly against the level, then flip the rail over and tighten the topside connector, again pulling both rails firmly against the straight edge. After joining them I move them as little and as carefully as possible and recheck them regularly with the straight edge, especially before doing a long finish cut.
I'd love to have a 3m rail but at 300 quid it's out of the question, there is this company in Germany who do a 3m rail for 100 quid, but I've never quite felt able to order one as I think there's close to zero chance of it arriving in a satisfactory condition, although they say they're happy to ship to the UK.
johnnyb
Established Member
johnnyb
Established Member
a track saw is not a substitute for a table saw. my table saw can rip 3 inch sapele accurately amongst many other operations btw.
artie
Sawdust manufacturer.
Can't disagree, but, as far a sheet goods are concerned it is equal to, or superior.
johnnyb
Established Member
even that statement is a bit misleading tbh. if all that's required is accurately cutting sheet stuff then a large panel saw is the correct tool. but who makes stuff only from sheet stuff?
a good table saw is really a revelation. powerful and accurate and safe. dados arent really spindle moulders though tbh.
a good table saw is really a revelation. powerful and accurate and safe. dados arent really spindle moulders though tbh.
I had a similar quandary not too long ago and I too intend on building my own kitchen. After quite a lot of research, I chose the makita sp6000 with 2 x 1.4 metre rails.
My experience so far: great for accuracy and speed, the scoring cut works very well at preventing tear out. Dust collection has been excellent but I did buy a 3d printed cover from strawbyte workshop for a few pounds (I also bought the waste side jig, well worth a look at his YouTube vids and store for more info)
I do have to agree that joining the rails together is not ideal and a little difficult to get 100% accurate. I'll be buying a 3 metre rail in the new year to compensate for this which I've seen for around £150. I will also be buying a parallel guide which I've found for £85 from Stantools.
To save some money you can always use cheaper 3rd party rails, for example the evolution rails work with the makita (and in fact, most tracksaws) so could be worth a look.
I don't have experience with other track saw brands for comparison, however I only have good things to say for the makita saw, plenty of power and highly accurate. No regrets at all.
My experience so far: great for accuracy and speed, the scoring cut works very well at preventing tear out. Dust collection has been excellent but I did buy a 3d printed cover from strawbyte workshop for a few pounds (I also bought the waste side jig, well worth a look at his YouTube vids and store for more info)
I do have to agree that joining the rails together is not ideal and a little difficult to get 100% accurate. I'll be buying a 3 metre rail in the new year to compensate for this which I've seen for around £150. I will also be buying a parallel guide which I've found for £85 from Stantools.
To save some money you can always use cheaper 3rd party rails, for example the evolution rails work with the makita (and in fact, most tracksaws) so could be worth a look.
I don't have experience with other track saw brands for comparison, however I only have good things to say for the makita saw, plenty of power and highly accurate. No regrets at all.
NormanB
Established Member
Ipso facto you cannot take a table saw to places a tracksaw can go. Just saying.
I currently use a tablesaw for cutting most sheet goods but it is / I am not able to cut large sheets as it is not a large pro panel saw and just does not feel like a safe operation to perform and hence the idea of a makita track saw. Currently use a length of angle iron nearly 9 ft long which is dead straight and cost me £6.75 along with a Bosch saw and cuts great once the angle is setup and clamped so now questioning going this direction and spending £150 on just a long track plus the saw as like yourself I don't just use sheet goods and have a means already plus there are other ways as well such as getting the sheets pre cut which my local timber merchant can do for no extra charge. I have already mentioned in a previous post the fact that in many videos these tracksaws just dont seem happy cutting like a table saw and they certainly would not cut 4 by 2's at 45° s so perhaps I will look at getting the Jessem Prestige router lift instead as that would improve the routing capability of my table. I think my conclusion currently is the tracksaw is great for site work but with space get a decent table saw if you cut a lot of sheet goods.
AJB Temple
Finely figured
The problem though is: a big table saw capable of handling full size sheet goods safely requires a LOT of space. Most DIY workshops do not have that luxury. Plus, a good table saw capable of doing this new, better than a good tracksaw, is a few grand (£3k upwards), plus extraction. A good used Wadkin (say) is not cheap either. And unless we are pros, it is not going to get used every day. So for most of us a tracksaw is a lot more useful and much cheaper. If I had neither, I would be investing in a tracksaw first, no question.
Hi all
Interesting video comparing Bosch with Mafell.
Even with a tracksaw I would need to cut full sheets outside on my full size tressle table as in my work area there is not enough space. So I become weather dependant which can be a pain. So I would need the saw at £330, long rail at £150 and the Benchdog square at another £110. For my purposes it is not viable as looking at how much ply I cut it is easier to buy pre cut sheets and finish myself. But for those with space shortage and working a lot of sheet goods then I can see how the tracksaw is a good compromise but for me there are more urgent needs.
Interesting video comparing Bosch with Mafell.
Even with a tracksaw I would need to cut full sheets outside on my full size tressle table as in my work area there is not enough space. So I become weather dependant which can be a pain. So I would need the saw at £330, long rail at £150 and the Benchdog square at another £110. For my purposes it is not viable as looking at how much ply I cut it is easier to buy pre cut sheets and finish myself. But for those with space shortage and working a lot of sheet goods then I can see how the tracksaw is a good compromise but for me there are more urgent needs.
johnnyb
Established Member
i totally get track saws but given a choice i would get a triton work centre and a 235mm saw. but for fitting kitchens doors trimming on site a track saw is superb.
for making wooden things at home some kind of table saw is indispensable in my mind. and a hand held circular saw is a real bonus when needed.
for making wooden things at home some kind of table saw is indispensable in my mind. and a hand held circular saw is a real bonus when needed.
artie
Sawdust manufacturer.
Parkside tracksaw from lidl <> £60 and a piece of galvanised water pipe and wooden straight edge coupled with a 25mm hole in bench.
Does the job
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