Total Beginner Desperate For Help

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Kierri

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Hi Everyone,

I consider myself a total beginner in wood working, because I've never had the time to consistently practice and so I'm always starting a fresh. I finally have time now and am eager tk get startrd. I bought a router a few years ago, a Bosch POF1200AE and I wanted to buy a router table to put it in. I'm a total ***** beginner when it comes to routers. But after doing some research, I've learned that it's not the easiest router to mount on a table due to the plunge function and the only way would be to either buy a lift or take the springs out? Bearing in mind, I don't know how to do either and find it all hard to understand.

So my question would be... Would it just be easier for me to buy a new router that would fit in a table easily? I'm an academic and so practical things are new and confusing to me. If it is better to get a new router, I've heard people say to go for 1/2 inch collet. My budget isn't huge and so which routers and tables would you recommend? I don't think I'm up to making my own just yet.

Thanks in advance and sorry to be a nuisance...

Kierri x
 
Your not a nuisance in any way, everyone has to start somewhere and what better place then here.

It would be so easy to advise you to get this or that and mount all the bits into a table, but as a total beginner it is going to be a steep learning curve, your easiest route is one of this type of table: http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworkin ... nds+dk2080 not the best in the world, but would let you get started and learn what it is your need to progress too, there are equivalents out there on e-bay and amazon, just do a search and find the best value model do make sure they have the same specification i.e. built in router, lift, 1/2" collet, feather boards and fence etc:

Mike

Lots on e-bay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/router-table
 
Stick a car jack under the router.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
My router tables are simply pieces of ply with a hole in them, and some bits of wood to hold the router in place. You need nothing more. A bonus is a frame under the router with a threaded rod in it, pushing the router up or down, but if you have a micro-adjuster on your router, you don't even need that to begin with. A simple fence on the top, pivoted at one end, and you're away..........and your budget is untroubled. I honestly can't see why a woodworker would buy a table when they're so simple to make, and to make really well.
 
I always cringe when i see the words total beginner and 1/2" router in the same sentence. These things are a serious piece of kit and not for the faint hearted if you get things wrong. I would get used to handling the smaller, less powerful one before you think about making the jump to something with more oomph!

I do agree with MikeG that making a simple set up yourself is something you should look into doing. I can't see why your router is any more difficult to table mount than others, but if you do table mount it, then new skills need to be learned to use it safely as feeding work into a stationery cutter is inherently more risky than moving the cutter over the work.
 
skipdiver":2iitwmxk said:
I always cringe when i see the words total beginner and 1/2" router in the same sentence. ........
Agree. Router is useful on occasions but is not a general purpose tool and can easily be done without entirely.
So I'd say forget router altogether and look first at basic hand tools and a bench.
 
I dont think a 1/4" router is less dangerous than a 1/2" router. Thats like saying a small gun is safer than a large gun.
All routers can be dangerous if not understood. I always push for the larger router purely because it will do every thing, wheras a small router wont, so its more economical to buy large to start with.

But with Kierri's self professed academic background, I do think a router as a first tool would be like learning to drive in a formula 1 car.
I came from a long mechanical background before i had a router, and that machine demands my respect because it doesnt give second chances (but its still my favourite for making fancy stuff).
I would suggest other means of making stuff if at all possible, and to search high and low for a training day if not.
 
sunnybob":fyk124qf said:
But with Kierri's self professed academic background, I do think a router as a first tool would be like learning to drive in a formula 1 car.

Now how OTT is that? As an academic Kierri will probably read all the safety instructions that come with any power tool, and I bet that is more than the seasoned amateurs on here will do. :wink:

Oh incidentally I was also an academic and have injured myself more with a Stanly Knife and stabbed myself more often with screwdrivers, but never injured myself with any of my power tools.

Mike
 
A screwdriver and even a stanley, makes a cut, that heals. A router takes chunks out and spits them across the room into the sawdust and you aint never gonna make that bit of your flesh right again.

I would rather make someone very cautious about a router, than tell them to just do it.
If after the warning then he (she?) goes ahead, then more power to the elbow.
 
A screwdriver and even a stanley, makes a cut, that heals. A router takes chunks out and spits them across the room into the sawdust and you aint never gonna make that bit of your flesh right again.

I would rather make someone very cautious about a router, than tell them to just do it.
If after the warning then he (she?) goes ahead, then more power to the elbow.
 
Thank you, Mike and everyone else :)

Just to clarify, I do own a whole host of power tools, I've used all of them many times and haven't injured myself much. I'm just a novice when it comes to routers. It is my belief, at least, that I am more than capable of handling any router than I happen on, I will read all the instructions and probably watch a few YT videos on the subject - just to make sure
I won't kill myself.

I've seen videos using a car Jack, but can't see mine being suitable to do that and I would have to cable-tie the power switch to keep the machine running too. I've looked at the powered tables and the Trend looks great, the Rutlands did too until some reviews weren't encouraging. Being new to routers, I would rather not build my own table just yet - but would rather use a table.

Everybody starts out a beginner and no one will venture past that if they never try. A router will indeed make an invaluable addition to my toolset. I just need to ensure I get one I won't regret later - as I already own one and besides, I can use that for over the table use, when I feel so inclined :) I am fully aware if the dangers and like the rest of you, I'm gonna make a go of it anyway.

So thank you to each one of your for your well seasoned advice. It's always invaluable.

K x
 
Ok then, i'm a fan of Makita stuff myself and have 2 Makita routers that have served me well over many years use. One of the strongest recommendations you will find for a particular router on this site is the Hitachi M12 and there are many that advocate the Triton range as ideal for use inverted in a table, so you could start with looking at those.

Don't have any experience of shop bought router tables other than a Wolfcraft one i was given, which is pretty rough and not very nice to use. I would think the Trend router tables are as good as any, though i say that with no actual knowledge of them.
 
The problem I always found with the Triton was the automatic interlock that operated as you lifted to full height, it meant getting under the table to unlock the thing before you could carry on, perhaps if it is fitted with a chuck extension it will be possible to lift it to such a height that the interlock will not operate, never tried it as I sold the Triton and bought a Hitachi M12 to use in the table, that has a Muscle Chuck fitted which I find is perfect, no long extension to try and balance and just an set screw key to loosen it.

Mike

EDIT: to add link to the Muscle Chuck: http://www.musclechuck.com/
 
With that clarification of your abilities, no reason not to continue.
Just remember that the most important part of using a router is the direction of feed. Feed wood in backwards and itll be a mess (possible a bloody mess).
and when the router is in the table, the direction of feed is reversed to hand held routing. feed wood into a table mounted router from right to left, and DO NOT feed it between the blade and the fence, and the last one.... Fingers must be 6" minimum away from the cutter at any time unless there is a substantial piece of wood between you and it.
 
I would (and did) go for a Triton TRA001 for mounting to a table. I would happily buy the same again, it's an excellent bit of kit.
If finances are tight then I would definitely make your own router table, it really is very straightforward. A homemade router table-top with a Black and Decker Workmate underneath works very well indeed and costs peanuts (look out for a secondhand B & D Workmate).
A couple of hours on Youtube looking at ideas from the abundance of video's on router tables will tell you all you need to know to be able to build your own. Just browse through the video's and pick the best bits to incorporate into your own table.
 
Invest in a course - you will get to use a variety of equipment and more importantly learn how to do it safely. Courses may seem expensive, but routers really can be viscious if not fed correctly -fingers can make an excellent snack for a disgruntled router.
 
I have mounted a Bosch 1/4 inch router in a home made table which I clamp in the bench vice. Only expense was to buy T track and feather boards for the fence. I removed the springs from the legs and am able to adjust the height reasonably easily. Although I don’t use it much, when I do need it (eg for edge mouldings on pieces too narrow to work with hand held router) it is invaluable.
 

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