Timber Conservatory - Advice Required

[deanflyer]

We moved into our new house recently, and I have got round to having a close look at the conservatory.

It hasn't really been very well cared for and ideally I would demolish it and start again, but dont have the cash at present. My main concern is the timber beading (sp??) on the conservatory roof.

See this photo for more detail:-



Various other photos here:-
http://s365.photobucket.com/albums/oo95 ... servatory/

As you can see they have done a botch job and just spliced a piece of timber in where the wood was really badly rotted. Ideally I would like to replace all the roof beading, but have a few questions.

1. Will the original beads have been screwed in from the outside?

2. What is the safest way to work on the roof. I dont fancy my chances crawling around outside. I thought removing one panel at a time and working from the inside of the conservatory on a scaffold platform was the way to go?

3. The original beading had two small (2 to 3mm wide) rebates on the underside to seal against the polycarbonate panels. Anyone know the best place to get this from. It isn't an adhesive seal, more like a press seal made of quite a thick weatherproof material (sorry for the rubbish description).

4. At the top where the lead flashing is I am assuming the wood just slots in i.e. I wont have to do anything with the flashing?

4. I may replace the panels as well. Where is the best supply for polycarbonate?

5. At the end of the beading is there anything I can do to stop water ingress? Was thinking of a stopped rebate instead of how it is at the moment.

6. What type of wood should I use. Its definately a stop gap for a couple of years until we can afford to replace it.

Sorry for all the questions. Hope you can assist.

Many Thanks,

Dean

 

[RogerS]

To be honest, given the age of the conservatory, you'll be chasing yourself in circles for ever, making temporary repairs etc and fixing leaks. I'd be inclined simply to get some flashband and, after cleaning the glass as best you can on either side of the timber, apply it over the timber and sticking it down securely onto the glass on either side.

Then at a later date you could add something like this?

 

[woodchip]

3.

Do these people stock anything like your seal?

http://www.reddiseals.com/

 

[JonnyD]

On the few conservatories I have done I have used metal fittings and gaskets from this company http://www.exitex.com/Capex/cdefault.aspx. Installation is simple and it is just screwed down to the rafter. Should be able to get fittings from local building centre. For polycarbonate I have used this company http://www.molan-uk.com// which have huge stocks and fast delivery and also stock the exitex stuff.

Jon

 

[deanflyer]

woodchip,

The seal is made of the material shown here:-

http://www.reddiseals.com/acatalog/Flipper_SOFSeal.html

Will check the profile though as it is slightly different I think.

Cheers,

Dean

 

[Benchwayze]

I used a product called 'Sylglas'
If it's still available, it is sold in rolls, and is just a heavyweight bandage, covered in a thick, sticky adhesive (Gunge!) The adhesive can be 'moulded' and smoothed over cracks. It is meant for temp repairs, but the guttering repair I did lasted ten years. 8)

Therein lies the disadvantage. It makes you idle... But it keeps out the water.
It is also messy, and unpleasant to work with, and you need a barrier cream before you start. The only thing that will get it off your hands is Swarfega. (Unless you risk using spirits of some kind.).

Put a strip of Sylglas along each joint, make sure you cover the joints well, then renew the timber on top. (You would have made your glazing bars first of course, and I would use cedar wood for the bars.

Sylglas is a justifiable codge. I dare-say some forum members will disapprove, but 'Needs must when economy drives.'

John