The Woodie Slope Steepens!

[bridger]

this design of wooden plane is a new one to me. I'm not quite getting what's going on with that boxlike insert or mechanism. anybody have a good explanation (or link to same) of how and why these interestingbeasties work?

Bridger

 

[jimi43]

If you look at Giuliano's picture above...the box with the flat side down slides up and down inside the plane...the flat edge projecting out into the V of the sole a variable amount depending on the depth of chamfer that you need.

The edge of this box is flat and the iron is wedge so that it just projects a little further than the box which then forms the mouth.

As you shave the corner off of the square edge of the wood...the sides of the V get closer and closer to the side and face of the stock being bevelled.

Once they are resting flush and square the box and the edge of the iron will be resting across the newly cut bevel and because the edges of the sole are flush against the stock...the bevel cannot be cut any further....

Here you see the two sides of the sole flush with the face and side of the stock and the iron edge and bottom of the box are flush with the newly cut bevel....

On Giuliano's one you have to hold the box while you set the iron with the wedge. On mine the box is locked at the required depth of protrusion and then the iron can be set as in a normal plane with the wedge.

Thanks for posting Giuliano....much appreciated and yours looks to be a user-made one as well....I think J.Gomm is indeed an owner mark..though quite old one.

Jim

 

[Corneel]

This is mine. A design from Moseley. It has a metal soled corebox. And the iron isn't wedged but has just two screws to keep it down on the bed. That looks flimsey but it works.

Details are to be seen in this picture.

 

[Philly]

Jim
Good to see that you've gone so far down the slope you can never return! The chamfer planes are intriguing little things - I personally found them over-complicated and went with an adjustable fence. Much easier to set up with less "faffing"
The wooden plane world is quite incredible - there are so many variations it is mind-boggling!
Keep up the good work,
Philly

 

[jimi43]

Jim
Good to see that you've gone so far down the slope you can never return! The chamfer planes are intriguing little things - I personally found them over-complicated and went with an adjustable fence. Much easier to set up with less "faffing"
The wooden plane world is quite incredible - there are so many variations it is mind-boggling!
Keep up the good work,
Philly

Yes Philly...and you are possibly the greater part of the reason I pointed my skis in that direction in the first place mate!

I hold you at least partially responsible! :mrgreen:

Another member here has me interested in a kanna though...which is beginning to worry me...I have a feeling that East may meet West fairly soon! Have you travelled this route yet?

Jim

 

[Philly]

Responsible? Me?...

I made a Jap style plane recently for a bit of fun. Came out well and worked nicely - learned a few things, too. But if you work at a bench then planes are made for pushing, IMHO.
Cheers
Phil


jap1 by Philmandoo, on Flickr

 

[jimi43]

I thought you might have strayed into that territory Phil.....nice one!

I am strangely more attracted to the steel and the design of the irons. I have been reading up on "tapping out" and other techniques in anticipation for having one but I don't think I will be putting it in a traditional setting.

I have a feeling that if I were to marry a Japanese iron with a Western style push plane design...I might find something rather interesting......

Your thoughts on this craziness most appreciated. 8)

Jim

 

[condeesteso]

Excellent collection gathering there Jim... I know collection is a bad word. Having started getting, tuning and using a few basic woodies recently I have a feeling their talents have a lot to do with their simplicity. Very few parts coupled with the big fat iron and cap (or maybe not even a cap-iron, sometimes) seem to make a really effective tool. And I think the low mass is sometimes a big plus too. I think I'll be needing a decent set of moulding planes then... ouch.

 

[jimi43]

Excellent collection gathering there Jim... I know collection is a bad word. Having started getting, tuning and using a few basic woodies recently I have a feeling their talents have a lot to do with their simplicity. Very few parts coupled with the big fat iron and cap (or maybe not even a cap-iron, sometimes) seem to make a really effective tool. And I think the low mass is sometimes a big plus too. I think I'll be needing a decent set of moulding planes then... ouch.

Hi Douglas...

One of the beautiful aspects of woodworking is the never ending discovery and the wide ranging variety of tools...both hand and machine.

As with most people..my novice thinking was...big machine beautiful...and the erroneous belief that old and simple designs...had been superceded by more modern, complex tools because these were improvements.

I am fast coming to the conclusion that this is not the case at all and this discovery and the understanding of how to tune and use these beauties is very pleasing indeed. I don't think I will be getting rid of my more useful machines any time soon...but it is very pleasing to have alternative ways of working.

Cheers

Jim

 

[AndyT]

Here's a thought for anyone who now realises that they really need a purpose made wooden chamfer plane, and they don't have Jim's skill at boot fairs: you could be the first woodworker on the block to have a totally different style, rather like a wooden version of the (very rare) Stanley number 72:

This is from a highly recommended booklet on how to make your own woodworking tools, written by the late great Charles Hayward and available to download, read and enjoy thanks to the generosity of Gary Roberts at his wonderful Toolemera website, for which I am for ever grateful.

Find it here, alongside scores of other such gems:

http://toolemera.com/Books & Booklets/books.html

 

[swagman]

As I am part way through building my 1st traditional stopped chamfer plane what seems evident to me is that only a small amount of vertical adjustment is needed on the stop itself.

If for example the maximum width required for the chamfer is 10mm; and a 1mm projection of the cutting iron is given at every 2mm depth of stop adjustment; the bottom projection of the stop below the top V of the 90 degree sole would only be 4mm on reaching the targeted 10mm chamfer.

(a) 4mm stop depth = 8mm chamfer width + (b) an additional 2mm resulting from the 1mm cutting iron projection.

(a) 8mm + (b) 2mm = 10mm total width of chamfer.

How many times would the stop and plane iron need adjusting to reach the target 10mm chamfer using the adjustment criteria outlined. 3 times.

0 mm stop projection + 1mm iron projection below = (2mm chamfer width).

2 mm stop projection + 1mm iron projection below = (6mm chamfer width).

4mm stop projection + 1mm iron projection below = (10mm chamfer width).

Let me know If am my wrong.

regards Stewie.

 

[AndyT]

We may be at cross purposes, and a picture of your design would help, but with any of the chamfer planes that I own, the setting for the desired width/depth of chamfer is something you just set once, then plane until you bottom out and it stops cutting.

The plane works a thin shaving, the thickness being separately regulated by the projection of the iron below the sole.

Chamfer planes seem to be commoner as user made planes rather than commercially made, so it will be interesting to see your perfectionist take on one!

I'm sure the forum could come up with a variety of designs if you still want that.

 

[JohnPW]

I've wondering about that. I haven't used a chamfering plane before but from what I've read, you only set the blade depth once. But if you've set it for a wide chamfer, how do you take thin shavings?

 

[AndyT]

With the designs I am familiar with, there is a sole, even though it is quite short.

It's NOT like a #71 router where you advance an open cutter after each stroke.

 

[swagman]

I've wondering about that. I haven't used a chamfering plane before but from what I've read, you only set the blade depth once. But if you've set it for a wide chamfer, how do you take thin shavings?

Hi John. From my basic understanding:

a V soled chamfer plane with a vertical depth stop installed; the initial thickness of the shavings is dictated by the amount the cutting edge protrudes below the bottom of the stop.

a V soled chamfer plane without a vertical depth stop installed; the initial thickness of the shavings is dictated by the amount the cutting edge protrudes below the top V of the sole.

Stewie;