The Veritas Shooting Plane

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi Carl

It does not need to be longer as it is intended to be guided by a rail as per the #51 style plane.

Regards drom Perth

Derek

 

[carlb40]

Ahh, i just assumed that like with jointing with a plane - the longer the sole the straighter the edge.

 

[bugbear]

Ahh, i just assumed that like with jointing with a plane - the longer the sole the straighter the edge.

When shooting end grain, the plane runs on the runner, not the workpiece, so the straightness comes from the runner.

BugBear

 

[carlb40]

I think the veritas sanding shooter is for long grain and that was why i wondered if longer was better. But i assume the track becomes the straight edge.

 

[Trafalgar]

One gets the impression from this thread that a lot of material is being removed in end-grain shooting. Really, isn't it just supposed to be cleaning up the saw marks from having sawn very close, and accurately, in the first place? I heard it said once that the shooting subsequent to effective sawing shouldn't remove a perceptible or measurable amount of length from the workpiece, just clean up saw marks and ever-so-slightly adjust the workpiece to square (or miter angle) where applicable. A few passes. It shouldn't take much unless the sawing out was very poor.

I think folks are shooting really rough ends (many passes) when they should incise lines, saw, then shoot. And of course depending on how the workpiece is being used, shooting (with a board or not) might be totally unnecessary if the marking and sawing were competently done.

Perhaps I have a fundamental misunderstanding of end-grain shooting with board and plane.

 

[David C]

Well, I hope I have not given that impression!

David

 

[Peter Sefton]

One gets the impression from this thread that a lot of material is being removed in end-grain shooting. Really, isn't it just supposed to be cleaning up the saw marks from having sawn very close, and accurately, in the first place? I heard it said once that the shooting subsequent to effective sawing shouldn't remove a perceptible or measurable amount of length from the workpiece, just clean up saw marks and ever-so-slightly adjust the workpiece to square (or miter angle) where applicable. A few passes. It shouldn't take much unless the sawing out was very poor.

I think folks are shooting really rough ends (many passes) when they should incise lines, saw, then shoot. And of course depending on how the workpiece is being used, shooting (with a board or not) might be totally unnecessary if the marking and sawing were competently done.

Perhaps I have a fundamental misunderstanding of end-grain shooting with board and plane.

I agree that the shooting board should be used just for final fitting from the saw, but this does mean the user has to have good sawing skills which comes with practice or shear natural skill.
Peter

 

[JonnyD]

Having used the veritas plane at cressing I was very impressed. I've had a LN 51 for a while now and it gets used a lot in my busy shop and I find it great to have a dedicated shooter to hand and easily copes with 30mm plus thick stock if required. To say whether its worth it is hard and subjective but I don't regret buying it.

I've just bought a new shooting plane called a rogers patent mitre plane and will start cleaning it up soon will do a thread if anyone is interested? This thing is amazingly engineered for something from the 1880's

Cheers

Jon

 

[Jacob]

I see it as a technique for small items - a convenient way to square edges (along or across the grain) and reduce them to size or to fit, after they have been cut nearly to size. The obvious small items would be drawers and boxes. I used to do it years ago when I made a lot of boxes - just a crude shooting board and a jack plane, but haven't felt the need latterly - it's easy to manage without, and long or thick boards can't be done so easily.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Nice piece of kit Jonny - I'd certainly like to see a thread on the cleanup and an assessment of it's capabilities and usability, if only for historical interest.

 

[Peter Sefton]

Nice piece of kit Jonny - I'd certainly like to see a thread on the cleanup and an assessment of it's capabilities and usability, if only for historical interest.

Me too, nice looking bit of engineering.
Peter

 

[Trafalgar]

They don't make them like that anymore Jonny. Nice to have that as a comparison. Solid would be an understatement.

 

[yetloh]

I was shooting with a 5 1/2 and think that it is either the shock at the start of a shaving or possibly lack of momentum which made thick stuff difficult.

The greater mass and skewed blade seem to be a great help, so one wonders how a 5 1/2 on a ramped board would fare?

David

Interesting that you use your 5 1/2, which i don't have, for something that chunky I use my very heavy A1 jointer and seem to avoid the problem.

Jim

 

[David C]

Jim,

For about 25 years, my 5 1/2 was the only bench plane I had which worked well !

My seven had been surface ground by an engineer who did not tell me that the travel on his grinder was half the length of the plane..... He put in a huge twist which took about 25 years to lap out.

best wishes,
David

 

[bugbear]

My seven had been surface ground by an engineer who did not tell me that the travel on his grinder was half the length of the plane..... He put in a huge twist which took about 25 years to lap out.

So much for the notion that engineers work to closer tolerances than woodworkers!

BugBear

 

[Paul Chapman]

I've just bought a new shooting plane called a rogers patent mitre plane and will start cleaning it up soon will do a thread if anyone is interested?

Yes please, Jon 8)

Already looks a lot cleaner since the last time I saw it



Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[yetloh]

Jim,

For about 25 years, my 5 1/2 was the only bench plane I had which worked well !

My seven had been surface ground by an engineer who did not tell me that the travel on his grinder was half the length of the plane..... He put in a huge twist which took about 25 years to lap out.

best wishes,
David

Oh dear. Presumably you don't use him any more.

Jim

 

[Peter Sefton]

My seven had been surface ground by an engineer who did not tell me that the travel on his grinder was half the length of the plane..... He put in a huge twist which took about 25 years to lap out.

So much for the notion that engineers work to closer tolerances than woodworkers!

BugBear

A few years ago I took a students No6 to a local engineer for him to resurface, the plane slipped in the machine and was ruined
We just keep it in-house now :!: 80 micron PSA Scary Sharp on 10mm float glass and check it on a granite inspection plate, it can take some time if the sole is in a bad shape but it is controllable. You can go for a finer micron if required, it depends on how much your arms are feeling
Engineers do work to closer tolerances than furniture makers or so they tell us :wink:
Cheers Peter

 

[Jacob]

Easy mistake to make, but on a plane sole, fine grit and polished appearance aren't essential for greater precision or lower friction:
Coarse P80 is OK for flattening (about 200 micron according to http://www.fine-tools.com/G10019.htm). Best done along the length as it will leave scratches coarse enough to snatch.
To reduce friction this will then need a quick 5 second pass over a finer grit to take off the sharpness, but without removing the scratches. Saves a lot of unnecessary effort - it will slide nicely but won't look polished.
This is true of other machine marks such as chisel faces - to reduce friction you just need to take off the tops of the scratches, without polishing them right off, which is a waste of time.

 

[4ndrew]

This product has been unavailable in the UK for the past two months. There was a back order situation at the end of last year with Veritas. However, my order with Lee Valley on December 31st. resulted in despatch from Ottawa on Jan 2nd. and delivery on Jan 6 with customs payment on the doorstep. Lee Valley has all variants in stock this morning. Fast delivery appears to be expensive...but factor in a lower US/Canadian price and I still saved around £60 on the UK price! Could have saved a little more with much longer delivery time...