The obsession continues.

[CHJ]

__________Small home dried Salad Bowl.

_________ _______ click on image for larger view
_____________Beech (185mm) (oiled)

 

[PowerTool]

Mmm - like that one,nice looking piece.

Andrew (who wishes he was in the workshop,and not at work.. )

 

[Paul.J]

Two more nice pieces Chas.
Like the Beech salad bowl. What finish is on it :?:
Paul.J.

 

[CHJ]

Two more nice pieces Chas.
Like the Beech salad bowl. What finish is on it :?:
Paul.J.

Chestnut Food safe Oil Paul, (Light grade liquid paraffin) standard pharmaceutical grade is thicker and takes longer to soak and dry.

 

[CHJ]

_________ All green turned and home cured.


_________ _________ ___
_______________Ash (146mm)______________________Sycamore (145mm)

_________ _________click on images for larger view
_____________Sycamore (142mm)

 

[bwlossie]

Hi CHJ,

Expand on "home cured" please. Which is your prefered method.

I have tried boiling, meths, but I get best results from microwave.

Barry

 

[CHJ]

Hi CHJ,

Expand on "home cured" please. Which is your prefered method.

I have tried boiling, meths, but I get best results from microwave.

Barry

Hi Barry, My first choice is meths soak, but for some pieces where there is evidence of big differences in moisture content across the piece I sometimes boil (pressure cooker 20mins.) this it to reduce the 'water marks' that seem to result with meths soak, more obvious in light coloured woods.

I have on occasions microwaved a thin piece but I tend to batch turn green wood and just leave it on one side to sort itself out rather than work one piece at a time.

I find that boiling very green beech in the roughed out stage evens out the colour, somewhat like steamed beech, but I have had people say they prefer items warts and all with the differing colours resulting from the meths soak.

 

[bwlossie]

Thanks for the reply Chas.

I am interested in the meths method but am having difficulty finding any in reasonable quantities/price.

I recently found some but it was £3 for 1/2 litre. I only bought 1 litre for the tryout so could only use a small tupperware bowl and obviously only a small blank.

I think I may not have left it soaking for long enough because it was still very wet after about 3/4 days.

Barry.

 

[CHJ]

Barry, I get my meths in 5ltr lots from my nearest Brewers Ltd, (Argee put me on to them some time ago) No doubt other decorating supplies people stock it, I just haven't looked elsewhere. IFRC about £17.

If you have a larger item than the meths will cover, put it in a strong plastic bag with the meths and nestle it in a bucket of wood shavings to force the meths around the item.

I leave items up to 20mm thick immersed for two hours.

 

[Paul.J]

Hello Barry.
I've just started doing the meths drying as per Chas's method.
Done my first couple of pieces which are on earlier posts.
I had trouble finding the 5l containers so ended up buying 10 of the 1/2L bottles,at £1.49 per bottle.
These were just enough for the container that i am using.
I left the part turned green timber to soak for 2 hours,then let drip dry over the meths tub,for about an hour,on some wire mesh.
Then wrapped the piece in several pieces of newspaper,taped,with the hollowed out part left open.
Then left for three weeks.They were down to 12% moisture content.
Sorry if i've intruded here Chas.
Paul.J.

 

[CHJ]

....snip..Sorry if i've intruded here Chas.
Paul.J.

You are not intruding at all Paul, glad someone else is around to pass on experiences, glad you are having some success.

 

[PowerTool]

I still haven't got round to trying it,but do intend to.
After rough turning,soaking and drying,does the original chucking recess still fit,or does it distort with drying ? i.e. do I need the Cole jaws I haven't bought yet,or the Longworth chuck I haven't made yet ? :lol:

Andrew (who still has a long "to do" list..)

 

[CHJ]

...snip...
After rough turning,soaking and drying,does the original chucking recess still fit,or does it distort with drying ? ...snip...

Yes and Yes, they go oval, some woods more than others. I would guess some as much as 4mm on a 50mm recess.

But I have not had one that would not hold on the dovetail jaws for rework.

Because of the span of a 4 jaw dovetail they seem to grip the recess OK, on a spigot you can see the differing compression marks on the 'high' sides when you take them off again but they grip OK.

I would not try for a 1-1/2mm recess on a green blank though :lol:

 

[CHJ]

__________"Just the one"

_________ _______ click on image for larger view
___________Coloured Ash (175mm)

 

[Paul.J]

Very nice their Chas.
Another nice piece of Ash.
What tool did you use to get under the rim :?:
Paul.J.

 

[CHJ]

Paul,

The first two tools used to finish hollowing out the rough green blank.

All three used to finish turn.

Crown 1/2" 13mm Round Nose Scraper used as a shear scraper held at about 30deg.

Crown multi tip scraper used narrow tip as a shear scraper held at about 30deg.

Robert Sorby RS230KT Hollowmaster first with the small cutter to true up the out of round behind lip (lighter loads and less chance of catch) then with scraper disc to clean up the whole inner surface radius.

 

[Paul.J]

Thanks Chas.
Some more items required. :wink:
Paul.J.

 

[CHJ]

__________"A couple of pieces found dry enough to go, amongst several days green turnning"

_________ ___ _______ click on images for larger view
_____________Sycamore (147mm)_____________Sycamore (110mm)

 

[CHJ]

_________"Now thats about ready for sealing after lunch"

_________ _______ click on images for larger view








__________"OH BOTHER" :roll:

_________

_________Room for a little artistic input here I think.

 

[Paul.J]

Very nice Chas.
Got a bit of Sycamore,will have to give it a go.
Chas wrote
Crown multi tip scraper
Chas got me multi tip today from Woodex.Already had the round nose scraper.
The chap said that this is all i would need for hollowing out.
Showed me some samples of pieces he had done just using the one tool.
:!: :!:
Paul.J.