The Long Road Back

[Alf]

That's true, except my Gents saws do have brass backs.

Better and better - done deal

I could fit 'pistol-grip' handles. I have actually considered this, but how would I drill through the saw blade (tool-steel) to accommodate the fixing nuts/bolts, without softening the metal? Surely I would have to do this, which would ruin the saw? Unless things have developed so much that I can now obtain drill bits to do this without softening the metal. In which case I plead my failure to keep up to date.

As it happens... :wink: After a lot of experimenting with the cheap methods I finally gave in and use a cobalt bit. They're not too outrageously expensive these days and get the job done in a brace of shakes. Recommended. Alternatives are to heat the area you want to drill very locally by application of friction with the aid of a power drill and suitable blunt instrument to the spot - or punch, grind off the dimple and adjust the hole to fit with needle file. Both these take time but they do work.

Only problem is once you've done it on one it can get to be a bit addictive...



Cheers, Alf

 

[woodbloke]

Have just had this reply from TLN:

Hi Rob,

Tom doesn't have any plans at the moment to produce a saw set but we do
get requests from our customers from time to time so you never know.

Thank you for your feedback - I'll pass this along to Tom.

-Michelle

Rob......whose living in hope

 

[Paul Chapman]

Thanks Rob. Good to know that others have asked as well - that demonstrates that there is a general demand and it's not just us.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Anonymous]

I like the 'hound's tooth dovetails Byron.

???????

I thought I posted about those - and cut them :roll: :lol: :lol:
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?p=182277#182277



As far as i am concerned, dovetails are best because of their beauty, and i prefer HTs

 

[ByronBlack]

Tony - that was me that cut the houndstooth dovetails, your just in a dream and feeling delusional - best be off to the clinic with you, oh and I can 'look after your tools' while you get treatment

 

[Anonymous]

Tony - that was me that cut the houndstooth dovetails, your just in a dream and feeling delusional - best be off to the clinic with you, oh and I can 'look after your tools' while you get treatment

Thanks for clearing that up mate - I'll start packing the tools now :wink: :roll:

 

[Benchwayze]

I like the 'hound's tooth dovetails Byron.

???????

I thought I posted about those - and cut them :roll: :lol: :lol:
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?p=182277#182277



As far as i am concerned, dovetails are best because of their beauty, and i prefer HTs

Sorry Tony... Tried to answer too many posts at once!

Embarrassed somewhere in the Midlands!

 

[bugbear]

In the absence of an official saw set, why not try hammer (with pointy head) and anvil?

Even the old books, never shy of recommending techniques that "require a little practice" mention that it is extremely difficult to get an even set using this technique.

They also emphasize that an even set is very important!

BugBear

 

[bugbear]

Seems to me that there would also be a good market if someone with enough expertise could produce "The Ultimate Saw Maintenance DVD".

There's this...

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7355

BugBear

 

[pam niedermayer]

In the absence of an official saw set, why not try hammer (with pointy head) and anvil?

Even the old books, never shy of recommending techniques that "require a little practice" mention that it is extremely difficult to get an even set using this technique.

They also emphasize that an even set is very important!

BugBear

There are little integrated hammer and anvil tools, in both Europe and Japan, that make this much easier. The anvil is mostly flat with just a hint of a curve on the hammer side and you run the saw teeth along this curve as you punch with the hammer. I haven't done it myself, but there are expert Japanese saw tuners/sharpeners who do.

However, I think the best saw sets are those wrest style that I see for sale in the UK and France all the time. If I didn't have to pay the huge postage, I'd buy a couple or three, they look like a very cool way to adjust the set. What's more, they should be easy enough to make. I've got a couple of great photos, but alas, can't upload them here.

Pam

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Pam

Would it be fair to say that you have a preference for Japanese tools?

I ask as I too quite like them and have used Japanese chisels and saws for several years until I realised that good quality European style tools work far better for me

 

[bugbear]

I've got a couple of great photos, but alas, can't upload them here.

Pam

Just upload to photobucket and deep link.

BugBear (who doesn't know how photobucket stay in business)

 

[pam niedermayer]

Hi Pam

Would it be fair to say that you have a preference for Japanese tools? ...

I'd say that I'm about half and half Japanese and Western tools; but I have almost no metal bench planes.

Pam

 

[pam niedermayer]

Just upload to photobucket and deep link.

BugBear (who doesn't know how photobucket stay in business)

Hmmm, it's the ads that do it for them, to say nothing of hiding your stuff so you have to look at all of them. Thanks, BB

 

[Benchwayze]

Now I have committed to more hand-tool work, I will try the Japanese dovetail chisels. I have a pull-cut saw, but I might re-handle that, as Alf advises and use it in addition to a new Western saw, until I make a final choice.

Philly recommended the GW test and I am going with the 'Pax'. All the saw handles in the GW test had a very obvious 'machine-cut' look and I fancy making my own handle. Also, rosewood and walnut are my first choices for totes and saw-handles etc. Just a style thing I suppose, but there were usually 'fit for purpose' reasons why the old workers made the choices they did. And after all, 'pistol-grip' does suggest 'walnut'.

Maybe Pax will supply the saw without handle? I can but try, and it would force me to actually do the job.

I scoured eBay for some older, Western steel-bodied planes, and I am busy fettling. (The wooden planes remind me of school and a certain Woodwork teacher and teardrops spoil the work! Ahhhh! )

So except for a rounded-sole plane and a few moulding planes I go for steel, and now I am all 'set'.

Thanks for all the advice friends. I’m hoping to put some new work on post soon, now I know how (Thanks Alf.) and also meet a few people in September too.

Happy Wooding folks.
John ccasion5: