The Beast has landed.

[Jake]

The innards of a double socket are not any more substantial than a single socket designed to carry a 13A load, so the total load they are rated for is 13A across both parts of the socket. The wires will be fine, but the connections in a socket introduce resistances, resistances plus current = heat.

 

[davy_owen_88]

I am still in difficulty the ring is rated at 32amps the sockets are part of it so which bit of the socket cannot stand the current just can not get my head round it sorry.

The copper link from the rear terminals to the front plug socket is the weak point which tends to fail under high load.

At the rear terminals both legs meet and are pressed together by the terminal screw giving a larger area and less heat, but when 2 large loads are connected to that socket the current has to travel through smaller copper links which make contact with the plug pins. If this high load is sustained for a long period the copper links get very hot and start melting the plastic parts.

 

[OLD]

Jake & Davy thanks i understand now.

 

[SimonA]

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 7&id=63305

This cable is suitable for long runs and is rated at 20A. Its still expensive though.

SimonA

 

[Adam]

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp;jsessionid=KKKWKXIQH1LEACSTHZPCFFA?cId=A431792&ts=41447&id=63305

This cable is suitable for long runs and is rated at 20A. Its still expensive though.

SimonA

Its good stuff - I use it for my table saw - and it really does stay flexible. You can get it in much shorter lengths, from TLC, who although a bit more expensive for 50m thanscrewfix, as you can buy by the meter means its a lot cheaper in the end as you only buy a couple of meters. And they deliver same day.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/ ... index.html

Adam

 

[ByronBlack]

Ok a bit of an update:

I bought a good heavy duty 13A extension today, fully un-coiled and plugged into a seperate power-socket in the house, it powered the machine without any problem.

I put some wood across the jointer - no real problems here after lowering the outfeed table slightly. It was higher than the blades before adjustment, and now it's gnats proverbial lower than the blades and seems to work well.

My only complaint with the jointing operation is that occasionally i'm getting a small chipout at the end of the stock. This maybe the way i'm using it though and I need to practice a little more.

The thicknesser works especially well, even without waxing the tables. The auto-feed engages properly, and the wood feeds through with no complaints. The initial finish was poor, but after a few runs through, it was fine. I still need to give the table a good waxing, but it's encouraging to see it all work so well.

However, I seriously need to purchase a dust extractor as the amount of chippings this thing creates it's frightening!

 

[Scrit]

My only complaint with the jointing operation is that occasionally i'm getting a small chipout at the end of the stock. This may be the way I'm using it though and I need to practice a little more.

Sounds like a wee bit of snipe, Byron. From a "trades" perspective I'd say it is unrealistic to expect to get a 100% perfect cut on a jointer and it's a massive waste of time trying to hunt down that elusive 2%, so personally I don't bother. What I do is to make provision for this when crosscutting the unplaned stock and then crosscut to final size after all the planing and thicknessing is done. In any case the snipe will disappear if you thickness the material, so why worry?

However, I seriously need to purchase a dust extractor as the amount of chippings this thing creates it's frightening!

And that's only a 10in machine :lol: In the meantime sweep-up regularly and bag the stuff and wear a mask - the waste quickly becomes a major trip hazard and with hardwoods in particular there will be a lot of dust released by the action of thicknessing in particular

Scrit