The Axminster AC216TS thread - impressions and tips etc.

[Emstuv]

On the front of the table there are 2 bolts, one in each corner. I'd say they are set in about 15mm from the table front edge. A third screw is placed in the extension table for support.

 

[Trainee neophyte]

On the front of the table there are 2 bolts, one in each corner. I'd say they are set in about 15mm from the table front edge. A third screw is placed in the extension table for support.

Thank you for getting in early - I'm just back from the workshop and I concur. Without taking it all apart I couldn't say whether the table has to come off to get access, or if you could sneak a spanner in, or if the front (red) panel comes off a frame.

 

[bp122]

What are people using for a dust extractor for this?

I have extremely limited space, but my NVD750 only pulls about 300m3/hour, which is well below the required 850m3/hour. I just about have space for a 1HP chip extractor (https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-c ... tor-105111 for example) with the collection bag mounted in some sort of external cupboard, which would just meet the minimum 850m3/hour on paper. However, I'm also aware of other sources like Bill Pentz (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclon ... corner.cfm) who recommend at least 1000CFM (~1700m3/hour) for adequate fine dust extraction. I just don't have the space for something this powerful.

Whatever extractor would be used in conjunction with my Airshield Pro, as well as an extractor fan and Record air filter. I suppose my question is: am I wasting my money on a LPHV 1HP chip extractor? Or will it significantly improve dust collection over my HPLV NVD750?

Thanks.


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Hi there

I use Axminster Craft AC82E 1.5HP Dust Extractor with the AC216, with a filter upgrade to the cylindrical type (not HEPA)

The extraction is rather good, but not so great without the suction from the blade guard as I use my TS without this (modified riving knife to cut partial sections on the workpiece)

 

[kstano83]

Hi there

I use Axminster Craft AC82E 1.5HP Dust Extractor with the AC216, with a filter upgrade to the cylindrical type (not HEPA)

The extraction is rather good, but not so great without the suction from the blade guard as I use my TS without this (modified riving knife to cut partial sections on the workpiece)

Does it mean that using this saw with an industrial vacuum that has a flow of about 220 m³/hr (that´s what I currently have) is absolutely pointless?

 

[Trainee neophyte]

Hi there

I use Axminster Craft AC82E 1.5HP Dust Extractor with the AC216, with a filter upgrade to the cylindrical type (not HEPA)

The extraction is rather good, but not so great without the suction from the blade guard as I use my TS without this (modified riving knife to cut partial sections on the workpiece)

Does it mean that using this saw with an industrial vacuum that has a flow of about 220 m³/hr (that´s what I currently have) is absolutely pointless?

I currently don't have any dust extraction whatsoever (people keep refusing to post it, for random reasons). The saw is great, but there is a bit of mess to clean up afterwards. Any extraction is going to help, but I would think more = better. In the meantime, 3M make good dust masks.

 

[bp122]

Hi there

I use Axminster Craft AC82E 1.5HP Dust Extractor with the AC216, with a filter upgrade to the cylindrical type (not HEPA)

The extraction is rather good, but not so great without the suction from the blade guard as I use my TS without this (modified riving knife to cut partial sections on the workpiece)

Does it mean that using this saw with an industrial vacuum that has a flow of about 220 m³/hr (that´s what I currently have) is absolutely pointless?

Unfortunately, it may just be that. It may suck a little bit of the dust but it just won't push enough through to make a difference. Dare I say, you are almost better off using the shop vac to clean up the mess afterwards as I assume it might be a better use of your electrical power. I use my shop vac to clean up the cuts where I take off the blade guard. This operation does cover the area behind me when I am stood in front of the table saw in dust.

I watched a slightly old video of this American / Canadian chap who did some tests on his extraction options in his workshop with various scenarios - length of hose, extractors, with and without cyclone and thien baffle (may have spelt it wrong) with an anemometer. He suggested that if you have more than 1.5 meters worth of hose attached to any extractor, you need to aim for a flow rate of at least 25% more than recommended to compensate for loss of pressure. This is again one man's test.

But as a general rule of thumb, theoretical recommendations are better exceeded in situations like this.

My advice with price being a primary driver is, hunt around on plumtree and fleabay for people selling extractors, either hire a van or get a mate to help you and go and get it. Unfortunately for me, this was too late as I had just bought mine and a week later there were 5 or 6 of them on used market (better ones than mine) including on the sale section on UKW.

I struggled to find a wallet-friendly solution to this, but in the end bit the bullet and got the extractor, and a month later I got the filter. Now I don't regret it and I just get on with the projects.

Hope this helps!

 

[Bodgers]

I´m getting keen on this saw and wondering if it is technically possible to put a "John Heisz´s fence" on this without too much hassle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIhMBYwm9E8
https://ibuildit.ca/plans/wooden-table-saw-fence/
Once the rails of the fence are removed, are there any holes where it can be attached?

My question is - what's wrong the existing fence?



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[kstano83]

Several reasons. My plan is to make extension wings or build it into a workbench for bigger capacity so the original fence would be too short and basically useless. I also would like to make it incremental with incra racks or a threaded rod.

 

[Trainee neophyte]

Several reasons. My plan is to make extension wings or build it into a workbench for bigger capacity so the original fence would be too short and basically useless. I also would like to make it incremental with incra racks or a threaded rod.

Have you thought of the sliding table upgrade? It's a bit more expensive than a good mitre gauge, but does all you list above, and it does a lot more, too.

 

[Yosarian]

Several reasons. My plan is to make extension wings or build it into a workbench for bigger capacity so the original fence would be too short and basically useless. I also would like to make it incremental with incra racks or a threaded rod.

Have you thought of the sliding table upgrade? It's a bit more expensive than a good mitre gauge, but does all you list above, and it does a lot more, too.

Is it any good?

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[kstano83]

Several reasons. My plan is to make extension wings or build it into a workbench for bigger capacity so the original fence would be too short and basically useless. I also would like to make it incremental with incra racks or a threaded rod.

Have you thought of the sliding table upgrade? It's a bit more expensive than a good mitre gauge, but does all you list above, and it does a lot more, too.

Not really. It would take too much space off my garage so I´m going to build a cross cut jig instead.

 

[Bodgers]

Several reasons. My plan is to make extension wings or build it into a workbench for bigger capacity so the original fence would be too short and basically useless. I also would like to make it incremental with incra racks or a threaded rod.

Have you thought of the sliding table upgrade? It's a bit more expensive than a good mitre gauge, but does all you list above, and it does a lot more, too.

Is it any good?

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Apparently it is significantly better than the one that came with the TS200. It isn't going to be Felder standard, no doubt.

I think there are few peeps on here that have it...

 

[Trainee neophyte]

[Apparently it is significantly better than the one that came with the TS200. It isn't going to be Felder standard, no doubt.

I think there are few peeps on here that have it...

I had mine delivered a few weeks ago, and I am still getting to grips with it. For cross cuts it is brilliant - much better than my miter sled. Of course you may have built a more accurate miter sled than me...

I'm still getting to grips with it, and yesterday I moved the saw to a different workshop via sack trolley , so all the fettling I did will have to be redone.

For me, the interesting use is rip cuts on small workpieces - I am looking to make a jig to hold on to things for me, so no more fighting with push sticks on tiny bits of wood. Something along the lines of this, I think: [youtube]jzc5uil5_-s[/youtube]

In terms of quality, I haven't got it completely accurately set up yet - there is still a tiny bit of wiggle, which doesn't affect cross cuts, but will be a problem for rip cuts if I don't hold it just so. A tiny bit of movement laterally translates to significant movement three feet forward of the table, as it pivots around where the table runs on the track. I am hoping this just needs some adjustment of the wheels. Think of it as the same as having a slightly sloppy miter gauge - mostly not a problem, but you have to hold it just so to get a perfect cut. Edit: since writing this (and not posting it because the internet failed), I have rectified the problem, and it is now solid as a rock. No longer square with the blade, but solid. Getting it all lined up again will be for another day.

Overall, I think it is brilliant. I am a total convert to the concept, and I don't understand why anyone would have a saw without a sliding table, especially in a commercial workshop. So much safer, so much more control. If only my saw's sliding table ran alongside the saw blade, as it would with a saw designed from scratch to have a sliding table, as opposed to being an a foot to the left, because it is an after-market add-on. Have a look at "Fritz and Franz" jigs, to see just how versatile these things can be. As I said, so much safer, and so much more control.

For my next trick, building a router table with a sliding table, and then something for the bandsaw? I will need a bigger workshop, obviously... I had better get building.

 

[kstano83]

The AC216TS as currently on sale for £477/580€. I couldn't resist and placed an order.

 

[Bodgers]

The AC216TS as currently on sale for £477/580€. I couldn't resist and placed an order.

It's a good machine, and for this price you can't go wrong.

 

[kstano83]

I made a croosscut sled for my AC216TS with plywood runners and they are harder to slide on the front and the back of the miter slots as if they were different width. Has anyone experienced this?

 

[Trainee neophyte]

I made a croosscut sled for my AC216TS with plywood runners and they are harder to slide on the front and the back of the miter slots as if they were different width. Has anyone experienced this?

Because I know me, if I had this issue, I would assume it was the sled, not the saw. Do you get the same effect if you turn the sled the other way around? Do you have one runner or two? If there are two, then if they are not 100% parallel they will tighten up unevenly. Wax will always help a bit.

 

[kstano83]

Because I know me, if I had this issue, I would assume it was the sled, not the saw. Do you get the same effect if you turn the sled the other way around? Do you have one runner or two? If there are two, then if they are not 100% parallel they will tighten up unevenly. Wax will always help a bit.

I have two runners and it drags even if I place the sled the other way around. It slides perfectly in the middle but it´s tight on the edges. Right after I cut the runners I tested the width by sliding both ends into slots to see if they are loose or tight. They were perfect in the middle but too tight towards slot ends. I might get incra miter sliders to see if it´s the same with them.

 

[MikeJhn]

I have the older TS250 and don't use the mitre slots, in fact I don't know how parallel they are, from the start I set up the sliding table to be as accurate as it could be and use it all the time.

If your sliders where tight before you put them on the sledge (UK spelling) then it will not make a h'peth of difference getting Micra sliders, if you insist on using your sledge then you need to address the slots in the table, get a straight edge and see what side of the slot is out of parallel to itself and the other slot, then attack with a file.