tenon saw sharpen and set

[andyacg]

i was wondering how many people sharpen their own saws ? there is a long established saw doctor near me and i am inclined to drop my tenon saw in to get it properly sharpened and set then perhaps try filing myself as needed. its only an ebay diston d8 but i am hoping with some rust remover and polishing it will serve nicely.

 

[J_SAMa]

I learned to sharpen on a modern sharpenable saw by Bahco. It wasn't as hard as I thought. It's a good thing you are sharpening a tenon saw, rip cuts are so much easier than crosscuts. The hardest part I found was keeping the rake constant. It's all too easy to twist your wrist just a *wee* bit, but that *wee* bit can be more than 10°...

Also make sure the saw is clamped tightly in the saw vise, otherwise the force from pushing the saw file could put unwanted set on the saw (happened to me the first time I tried sharpening a saw). Maybe sharpen it first and then send it to the saw doctor's for setting?

Sam

 

[Corneel]

I sharpen my own saws. There are no sawdoctors overhere. Study a bit for example on http://www.vintagesaws.com/. On Norsewoodsmith you can also find a lot of info, but have to search a bit on the site. The problem with keeping the rake angle is simply solved with a rake block, a small bit of wood on the front point of te file to keep level.

For setting the saw get an Eclipse or Somax. Use it only in the mildest position when you work with hardwoods and just a little more when you work in softwoods. Ignore the numbers on the rotating anvil. You dont need a lot of set. Start practicing on saws with well proportioned teeth. Correcting a saw with misshapen teeth is harder.

And remember, a poorly sharpened saw cuts better then a dull one. So just give it your best and you'll be fine.

 

[bugbear]

Start practicing on saws with well proportioned teeth. Correcting a saw with misshapen teeth is harder.

Seconded - I started off learning on cheap saws, with teeth all over the place (looks like bad sharpening is really quite common).

Once I'd finally learnt enough to correct these, I found that "touchup" sharpening is absurdly easy! However, don't be too
easily fooled by this ease. The errors that occur in a single touchup sharpen are small, bit they are exactly what accumulate to give
the misshapen teeth that are so hard to fix.

Hopefully, once you'll acquire skills, knowledge and confidence during touchup sharpening fast enough that you'll be able to use the more advanced techniques to correct errors before they've accumulated to excess!

BugBear

 

[andyacg]

thanks for the pointers chaps. i will have a look on the sites you mentioned Corneel. it reminds me of something someone i know always used to tell me. dont work hard lad work smart. cheers all.

 

[G S Haydon]

Hello andyacg,

I don't yet but I want to. Practice on an old rip saw is a good place to start I think

 

[Jacob]

Like (almost) everything - it just gets easier the more you do it and doesn't take long before you are on top. Need to follow some of the advice on the net though.

 

[AndyT]

Possibly the clearest and most thorough video on how to sharpen saws is here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-_MF2Mnxwc&feature=player_embedded

It's quite long but very good.

Don't forget that if you like it you can make a charitable donation in appreciation.

 

[G S Haydon]

Andy, 11mins in so far. Thanks for the link!

 

[longinthetooth]

On old saws often the teeth are out of shape from previous bad sharpenings - high and low and of erratic pitch. That's the big job, otherwise its easy enough but good eyesight helps. I've given up on dovetail saws - maybe I should get one of those work lamps with a magnifier ... tenon saws I file straight across - as if it was a rip-saw, even though I only use mine for crosscutting (shoulders) - when the teeth are that small it doesn't make much difference to the finish of the cut.

Shoulders generally should be right enough straight off the saw even for cabinet work in hardwoods - no piddling about with shoulder planes. If you can't saw to a line, that can be the start of a downward spiral of desperation. Get basic skills first, refinements later.

 

[G S Haydon]

On old saws often the teeth are out of shape from previous bad sharpenings - high and low and of erratic pitch. That's the big job, otherwise its easy enough but good eyesight helps. I've given up on dovetail saws - maybe I should get one of those work lamps with a magnifier ... tenon saws I file straight across - as if it was a rip-saw, even though I only use mine for crosscutting (shoulders) - when the teeth are that small it doesn't make much difference to the finish of the cut.

Shoulders generally should be right enough straight off the saw even for cabinet work in hardwoods - no piddling about with shoulder planes. If you can't saw to a line, that can be the start of a downward spiral of desperation. Get basic skills first, refinements later.

You sound like my Dad . He also mentioned that my granddad sharpened his tenon saw like you do.

 

[Jacob]

..... I've given up on dovetail saws - maybe I should get one of those work lamps with a magnifier ... ......

Magnifying lamps are good. Also felt tip the teeth so you can see where you've been. Do it by feel - a steady even stroke on alternate teeth, without stopping from one end to the other.

PS P Sellers says anything smaller than 9tpi might as well be rip filed straight across as it's easier and there is no noticeable difference. Sounds good to me.

 

[longinthetooth]

You sound like my Dad . He also mentioned that my granddad sharpened his tenon saw like you do.

I AM your dad - they never told you then?

... felt tip the teeth ...

Yes I tried that but people crossed the road to avoid me ...

P Sellers ...

P Sellers ... Britt Ekland ...

 

[G S Haydon]

:lol: longinthetooth it's one of those moments http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peh2T2543ec :lol:

 

[longinthetooth]

Extremely appropriate. Thanks. Aaaaarghhhhhh!

 

[MIGNAL]

I made this little device for setting the file angles:



You basically file a big tooth gullet at the right angle. It's very easy to file a big gullet and it's easy to make corrections if you start to go off. Cheap, simple and quick to make.

 

[bugbear]

I made this little device for setting the file angles:



You basically file a big tooth gullet at the right angle. It's very easy to file a big gullet and it's easy to make corrections if you start to go off. Cheap, simple and quick to make.

That's a close cousin to my (really Wearing's) approach..

http://web.archive.org/web/200901012043 ... le_pointer

(oh, here's the rest of my saw sharpening stuff)

http://web.archive.org/web/200901141727 ... arpen.html

BugBear

 

[MIGNAL]

Same idea. You don't even need that tooth template for the larger (lower TPI) saws. Providing the teeth are in fair condition you can just place the file in a gullet and position the indicator so that it is vertical. Doesn't work so well on the tiny teeth though, which is where the tooth template comes in. No doubt you could dispense with all this if you are sharpening saws a few times per week. Not many woodworkers have that luxury though. By the time it comes around to sharpening my saws I've forgotten a lot of it.

 

[MIGNAL]

Just sharpened a tiny Zona saw :shock: Something like 25 TPI. Filed straight across, couple of strokes each tooth. None of that 'missing every other tooth' or turning the saw around. I didn't even bother trying to judge the rake. Just went at it, I was going to throw it anyway. I clearly filed one gullet twice because that particular gullet was very deep with small teeth either side. Apart from that it looked fine.
It cuts astonishingly well though. Might even cut better than when it was new. Took less than 5 minutes. There you go, even a cheap Zona saw is worth touching up a few times before throwing it.

 

[J_SAMa]

Hi,
Well this question isn't really related but I didn't want to start another thread:
Why and when are "double ended" saw files used? Is there really a major difference between them and regular ones?
Sam