Table saw stand

[DiscoStu]

Having got my Axminster TS200 back (hopefully all beautifully aligned especially the riving knife. I need to get it back under my machine bench. Previously I had it mounted on the Axminster stand and I made a wooden base for that with small castors.

Two issues with this the height of the saw on the stand only just fitted under my bench and meant I have to take the guard and fence off every time I put it away and reassemble when I got it out.

The other issue was I only used small castors to keep the height low and they don't cope very well with the slightly rough surface of the garage.

So the plan is to build a new stand on much more substantial castors but also a little lower so that I can wheel it out and use it without the faff of partial rebuilding it each time.

So any advice or suggestions?


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[MattRoberts]

Have you looked at getting a mobile cart? That would cover the mobility and the adjustable feet would cover the uneven floor. It's then a case of making a box of the right height to sit in the base, and then sitting the saw on top of that

 

[DiscoStu]

The uneven floor is just an issue for the small castors. What do you mean by mobile cart? To give you an idea my table saw is saw, plus sliding table, plus extended table to the right so in total it's probably 180mm wide. Not sure if that has a bearing on the cart idea? Do you have an example of what you mean that would help me visualise it.


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[MattRoberts]

Sure, but the base of the table is a much smaller rectangular footprint right?

I was talking about a mobile base like this http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-un ... ase-100253

 

[DiscoStu]

Thanks, that's actually quite funny because that's exactly the base I had it on at first, it didn't move enough for me as the rear two wheels were locked, hence I "upgraded" to my own base with castors.

 

[MattRoberts]

Hah, ok. I guess the issue then is that it's a struggle to find a 4 wheel mobile base with castors big enough that could support that kind of weight. Regarding the height though, is it not just a case of replacing the stock legs with your own base so that you can get just the right height?

 

[DiscoStu]

Ok so I'm the end I put bigger castors on my base, cut the legs down on the stand and bolted them to the base. So the saw is now about 100mm lower and fits under my bench with ease and with the guard and fence etc all in place.

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[DiscoStu]

Ah typical, I cut the actual bench out of the pic, but it's only just cut out!


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[MattRoberts]

Excellent, nice one. I'm glad my sage advice steered you on the right track

 

[Trigs]

Here's mine which built a few months ago but haven't had time to finish. I laminated 2 cuttings of 18mm mdf for the top. Just need tow finish the drawers and fine tune the top for perfect flatness with the saw

 

[DiscoStu]

Looks good. I'd like to replace the fence on mine so that it slides smoothly and doesn't move as its tightened. However I'm going to see how much I use it after I build my MFT style cutting bench.


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[Bodgers]

Looks good. I'd like to replace the fence on mine so that it slides smoothly and doesn't move as its tightened. However I'm going to see how much I use it after I build my MFT style cutting bench.


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You may have seen the TS200 threads on this but there is a way to tweak the fence to make it reasonable.

The sliding: two things are needed.

1. Drill two holes in the fence clamp to the left and right of the main clamp screw and tap the holes With threads. Screw two nylon/plastic screws into them and adjust so that the clamp moves left and right smoothly.

2. Lubricant on the guide rail. It helps and the manual does say to do it.

The Uneven clamping/moving whilst clamped. Again two things are at play here.

1. casting on the alloy clamp is uneven and prevents the clamp being properly square. Detach the fence from the clamp and use a metal file to file completely flat the table side face of the clamp.

2. The nylon washer plug type affair at the end of the screw clamp is terrible. The end of the thread pulls through past it when it loosens and makes contact with the guide rail and destabilises the clamp as it pushes through. I see this often in pictures of people's TS200 on this forum as their alloy guide rail has loads of circles imprinted into it (as does mine). Best way to solve this is basically to remove the whole washer/plug thing at the end of the thread with a much larger one that does allow the thread of the clamp bolt to contact the rail.

 

[DiscoStu]

Thanks - I might have to look at that. I'm tempted to replace the whole fence and rail. Anyone got any suggestions for a good replacement?


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