Table saw advice please

[alex robinson]

I have recently bought an Axminster ts-250 as my first table saw. It didn't come with the sliding mitre carriage though.

Firstly, how useful is having one? Is it worth trying to source one, or should I just make a DIY sled for crosscutting?

If they are great, how universal are they? I guess one from a ts-200 or a kitty 419 would fit? Does anyone on here have one they would be happy to sell?

Thanks!

 

[rogxwhit]

What's useful to you depends on the work you do and you haven't said what that is. But a sliding carriage replicates what a protractor fence does whilst allowing those operations to be done more accurately on longer workpieces, since it provides more work support away from the blade.

 

[recipio]

It's a small saw so you will still be confined to crosscutting small/ medium sized wood. If you get a miter saw you will probably use it instead. The extension table will allow you to cut larger pieces of sheet goods so that may be a better purchase.

 

[alex robinson]

Currently I don't even have a protractor fence with it, so I am going to have to get something. I have a cheap mitre saw so I have an option for cutting angles.

As to what I hope to make, the first project will be loads of drawers for the shed. After that, various bits of furniture for the house (cupboards/drawers, bookcases).

I am currently reorganising my shed and planning on building a wheeled cabinet for it, so wanted to make sure everything was the correct size. Space is at a premium, so it will be difficult if I decided later to add something!

 

[rogxwhit]

If space is at a premium then I doubt that a sliding crosscut table is the thing. There are times anyway when the work is too long even for that and it becomes more sensible to take the tool to the (stationary) work rather than present the work to the tool. But it's a great device if you can swing it.

The vogue nowadays (especially amongst those with no room for a panel saw who need to convert sheet material) is a plunge saw with a track. But you can use an ordinary portable circular with various guides, some of which can be made in-house.

One use of a crosscut slide on a sawbench is cutting tenon shoulders, but it sounds like you're more focussed on panel and board work than framed structures.

 

[Spectric]

As to what I hope to make, the first project will be loads of drawers for the shed. After that, various bits of furniture for the house (cupboards/drawers, bookcases).

Maybe you would have been better of with a tracksaw for the purpose of cutting sheet goods, but as

But you can use an ordinary portable circular with various guides, some of which can be made in-house.

has said, this is how I started with a Bosch GKS190 and a length of angle iron which worked well but was more time consuming in the setup and marking compared to my Makita tracksaw.

 

[alex robinson]

I don't think I will ever be able to cut big pieces of sheet material inside my shed. That has to be done outside with a circular saw and a guide. I was hoping to do smaller more precise bits with the table saw.

I possibly got a bit over excited when I saw one come up cheaply. I know that there won't be space for anything that doesn't get fitted in during this reorganisation so I wanted to get the best set up possible. Tenon shoulders seems an good example of relatively small pieces where precision is important.

 

[rogxwhit]

Tenon shoulders seems an good example of relatively small pieces where precision is important.

That can be easily achievable with a protractor guide that fits a slot in the saw top. It only becomes less effective when the pieces are long and heavy enough to overwhelm the support available. So you might do a house door rail ok, but struggle with the jamb of a door frame or the long jamb of a windowframe. Cabinet components shouldn't be an issue.

Note that the marketplace is littered with fancy non-OEM protractor guides, often anodised in garish colours and sporting various bells and whistles that are completely unnecessary, their designs being mainly focussed on draining your pocket. Keep it simple! Simple things just work.

 

[alex robinson]

That can be easily achievable with a protractor guide that fits a slot in the saw top. It only becomes less effective when the pieces are long and heavy enough to overwhelm the support available. So you might do a house door rail ok, but struggle with the jamb of a door frame or the long jamb of a windowframe. Cabinet components shouldn't be an issue.

Note that the marketplace is littered with fancy non-OEM protractor guides, often anodised in garish colours and sporting various bells and whistles that are completely unnecessary, their designs being mainly focussed on draining your pocket. Keep it simple! Simple things just work.

So it turns out that the downside with this saw is that the mitre guides are an odd size. Is there anywhere that sells guides for 15mm wide tracks? I went and asked in Yandles today and they were really helpful, but couldn't suggest anything that would fit.

 

[Jameshow]

So it turns out that the downside with this saw is that the mitre guides are an odd size. Is there anywhere that sells guides for 15mm wide tracks? I went and asked in Yandles today and they were really helpful, but couldn't suggest anything that would fit.

Make some out of polyurethane chopping board cut up on the table saw?

 

[rogxwhit]

So it turns out that the downside with this saw is that the mitre guides are an odd size. Is there anywhere that sells guides for 15mm wide tracks?

Have you considered a self help approach? What do I mean? Get hold of a (maybe used?) mitre fence and bar, ditch the bar and substitute a length of steel or brass that fits your slot.

A few things that might help with this process are a vernier caliper for measuring slot and bar, some hss drill bits, possibly a hand tap and wrench, and a couple of files. All things that are worth having anyway.

If it helps to motivate you here's a pic of mine. I fitted the brass bar. A bit of easing was required, but now it fits the cast iron slot beautifully - there is no play, and it slides like silk.

 

[alex robinson]

Have you considered a self help approach? What do I mean? Get hold of a (maybe used?) mitre fence and bar, ditch the bar and substitute a length of steel or brass that fits your slot.

A few things that might help with this process are a vernier caliper for measuring slot and bar, some hss drill bits, possibly a hand tap and wrench, and a couple of files. All things that are worth having anyway.

If it helps to motivate you here's a pic of mine. I fitted the brass bar. A bit of easing was required, but now it fits the cast iron slot beautifully - there is no play, and it slides like silk.

View attachment 147063

I think that will have to be the answer. I thought I had done my research with this purchase, but this is a surprisingly irritating downside to it.

Good to hear that yours works. I had a look at some today, but they were a bit expensive to buy to immediately cut up!