Storage Shed - WIP **FINISHED!**

[wizer]

Thanks for the progress report Gidon. I'm starting to formulate plans for 2 storage sheds in my garden and your costings are helpful. My 2 will be smaller than yours.

You are an absolute saint to be out there in this cold weather working on the shed. I can't even handle being in my heated workshop! :roll: :wink:

 

[gidon]

Thanks chaps.
Mike - I've yet to add the overhang (which I plan to create with a sort of ladder arrangement attached to the gable rafters). So I can just attach some facia board to the front of this?
Wizer at least it's been dry! And any excuse to get out the house with the children ill all over Christmas! At least my workshop's been warm - noticed today that the thermostat must be gone! I have the electric fan heater on frost guard and noticed it's still running when it's reading 9C in the shed! Hope my wife doesn't find out! Not sure how long it's been like this since I've been mainly outside!
Cheers
Gidon

 

[RogerM]

Cost so far:
Floor joists, floor boards: £100 (B&Q)
Wall and roof framing timber: £100 (with a fair bit of 2x1 left over) (Tavistock Woodland Saw mill)
Cladding, OSB boards for roof: £300 (Travis and Perkins)

Cheers

Gidon

Looking good Gidon. Hope children are now better. What a pain over Xmas!

I'm plotting something similar, but about 10' x 10' and in a summerhouse style. Can you remember what the cost per metre was of the shiplap from TP? Totem have quoted me £1.20 per metre which sounds a bit steep.

I have the electric fan heater on frost guard and noticed it's still running when it's reading 9C in the shed! Hope my wife doesn't find out! Not sure how long it's been like this since I've been mainly outside!

Hmm. Say 2KW @ 11p per KWh = £5.28 per day. Ouch

 

[John. B]

I finished the end of my shed like this.
Gives some weather protection to the windows and end cladding and IMO a little bit of style.

John. B

 

[gidon]

Thanks Roger - yes they all got better for the New Year thank goodness.

I paid 1.30/m + VAT for the 6" 3/4" treated shiplap. I rang around Tavistock Woodland, Duchy and TP were the cheapest. So if Totem are quoting for 6" 3/4" sounds a good price to me! But it's an expensive thing the cladding.

I really hope that heater wasn't on too long then!

Very nice John - looks very unique!

Cheers

Gidon

 

[gidon]

Well not as much progress as I'd hope but getting there ...

Cladding pretty much done:

Added ladder frame for overhang:

OSB boards cut and fixed:

This last stage took me a full day! Hard going on your own. Plus overkill using 3/4" OSB - 1/2" I'm sure would have been fine - and easier to handle! Had to also add some noggins between the rafters to help support the boards - I guess they should fall on rafters but they don't .

Then there was getting up on the roof - ended up building that roof hook thingy you can see in the last pic and having to borrow my neighbour's ladder.

I then desperately tried to fix the underfelt for the felt shingles I'll be using. I've tried to do this myself on my workshed (patch repair) and remember it being tricky, but this time I ended up tearing my first strip of felt! It's flippin' tricky with only two hands! Any tips PLEASE on doing this on my lonesome?!!

Also will the underfelt be waterproof enough to leave encovered before I attach the shingles. Or do I still need to put tarpaulin over it?

Cost so far:
Floor joists, floor boards: £100 (B&Q)
Wall and roof framing timber: £100 (with a fair bit of 2x1 left over) (Tavistock Woodland Saw mill)
Cladding, OSB boards for roof: £300 (Travis and Perkins)
Trim, some more cladding: £100 (T&P)
Roofing underfelt: £25 (B&Q)

Cheers

Gidon

 

[gidon]

Progress has been slow but I'm almost there.

Barge and facia boards, underlay, and felt shingles (started)

Shingles almosy complete one side - very quick once you get going (and find a way of reaching the ridge!

As it currently stands. Shingles finished, framing for door and windows in. Windows in (took far longer than I'd thought!). Just need to make door and do final trim!

I ordered the shingles from ashpheltic in Plymouth and not too impressed. They were more than Marley shingles from B&Q and not as good! But B&Q didn't have black at the time and they did .

Haven't quite decided on door so any recommendation welcome.

Cheers

Gidon

 

[MickCheese]

Looks really good, it may have been expensive but it looks so much better than one you could have bought off the peg.

How about a half glazed door to let in some light?

Well done

Mick

 

[crazylilting]

Dear me i wish i would of seen this one a little sooner. Several things to worry about.

You didn't have a double plate on the top of your stud walls and the rafters didn't line up with your studs. As this is only a one by frame it may sag over time. The other thing is the ladders you built... The idea of a ladder is to cantilever the roof over the wall. So it should straddle the wall, it will sag if it doesn't. So if you want a one foot over hang you need to cut your ladder pieces back to the second rafter and use that one as the ladder leg. It also means that your end gable needs to be dropped or made to accommodate the over hang so you can nail the middle of the ladder to the end gable.

One needs to approach stick framing in a logical way. the load needs to be carried through the entire building from the roof down. a rafter is displacing the weight of the roof and if nothing is under it the dead load will keep pressing down on your plat and your siding.

hope this helps

 

[dennis]

Valid points Crazylilting, the ridge running through and having a fascia board help but there is a possibility of the overhang sagging, especially if it gets thick snow.

Could put gallows brackets under the bottom corner of the ladder frames.

Dennis.

 

[head clansman]

hi gidon

its going no where . You have a ridge board and a fascia board which is attached to the ladder , plus it appears you have the roof sheeting running the 8 ft ft length ways as well , and the ladder its attached to the cable ends as well which appear to be no more than about 7 ft in length , fore Christ sake it's storage shed not a bloody great house . hc

 

[dennis]

It may never go anywhere, but because of the method of consruction of the ladder frame there is a possibility of sag, only time will tell.

It may only be a storage shed but it has a longer gable overhang than most bloody great houses.

Dennis.

 

[head clansman]

Hi


It's width of overhang in it's self is of no importance at all , its length however is, its no more the seven feet approx , theres very little weight in volved no where near the length & weight found in a normal house construction . More to the point its fixed to the cable , to the ridge and to the fascia board these two are continuous length of timber, plus the roof sheeting is also fixed to it making that three sides and one face , so all in all if it sages? it will be the same as the rafters , there will not be any sage in his roof. hc

 

[dennis]

The width of the overhang is indeed important, as it is cantilevered and as such, the wider it becomes the more downward pressure there is.

On older roofs the purlins, ridge, and wallplate run through to support the end spar, making a strong job not needing the fascia or any overboarding to help support it.

On the more modern trussed roofs, the ladder frame is fixed to the last truss inside the gable and is built into the gable end. Also making a strong job not needing help from the fascia.

But in this case, as the ladder frame is only fixed to the outside of the gable, although the ridge runs through, the bottom corner would be weak and easily pulled down before the fascia was fixed, and the wider the overhang the weaker it would be.


So instead of the ladder frame being strong enough to support the fascia and roofing sheets, we have the opposite and they are supporting the ladder frame.

Dennis

 

[gidon]

Thanks Mick! I like the idea of a half glazed door - only negative is I'd lose some storage on the back of door .
crazylifting - Mike did point out the issue with the rafters not being over the studs - did try and strengthen it by adding 2x3s to the wall plate (also closing in the eaves). Get what you mean with the ladder - will know for next time - thanks! All learning - I went into this a bit blind and didn't work to plans or a drawing which was silly. Still have learnt a lot and still a lot to learn!
Dennis - good point will add brackets if overhang sags.
Thanks HC - encouraging! Yes the OSB is also holding the overhang - it feels pretty solid to me. But it's good to know the correct way of doing things for next time.
Funny about the ladder frames - that was one bit where I actually got advice from a carpenter!
Thanks for the comments - all appreciated.
Cheers
Gidon

 

[head clansman]

Hi gidon

The point i was making was the way you did it is fine , i know how to constructed roofs with gable ladders did all that forty yrs ago . they are right on how it's done but and this is the but a traditional roof ladder when completed as described would then be loaded with either slate or some form of concrete roof tiles adding a huge amount of extra load to the overhang hence this was why its design that way. yours well roof boarding + felt shingles about seven foot long weight wise :?: , you make your own mind up. hc

PS An added thought here gidon gallows brackets i know someone did mention them but not for that reason how exposed is the overhang to wind say a south westerly of about gale force eight or more might save you losing the roof from any upwards lift from the wind under the overhang . hc

 

[gidon]

HC - it is quite exposed to wind - we're on Dartmoor fairly high up. So may look at gallows brackets - thanks.
Cheers
Gidon

 

[gidon]

Well almost finished - have quite a few finishing touches to make, particularly inside but here it is:


(Click here for all WIP photos).

Very satisfying project and I have learnt a lot.

Final costs:
Floor joists, floor boards: £100 (B&Q)
Wall and roof framing timber: £100 (with a fair bit of 2x1 left over) (Tavistock Woodland Saw mill)
Cladding, OSB boards for roof: £300 (Travis and Perkins)
Trim, some more cladding: £100 (T&P)
Roofing underfelt: £25 (B&Q)
Roofing shingles: £150 (Ashphaltic, Plymouth - wouldn't recommend, the Marley ones from B&Q are much better and same price)
Door: £20
Total: £700
I could have reduced costs on floor boards (used OSB), and roof (shed felt) - would have made the costs over £100 less but for me the roofing shingles at least are definately worth it.

Cheers

Gidon

 

[Paul Chapman]

That looks very nice, Gidon.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[thomvic]

You made a good looking job there Gidon, despite the doubts expressed by some.
I presume a couple of coats of preservative and then on with the gardening eh!