stopped dovetails

[Anonymous]

Router

 

[Alf]

Marc, yeah, I was thinking the same thing but feared it showed a Lack of Moral Fibre :lol:

Should anyone have a copy (and it's not entirely beyond the bounds of possibility) there's a very clear article on the subject in The Woodworker for August 1964 (vol. 68 ) by Maynard, although he does use one "specialist" tool in the form of a side rebate plane.

Fascinating that Joyce shows such a small saw for such a wide joint - thanks for the pic, Jacob.

Cheers, Alf

 

[David C]

Well,

If I remember right you have to start with the toe of the saw and work progressively from the chopped out hole, back towards the back/face edge of the carcase.

At the start it is only possible to take a very short stroke. Whether a larger saw would help, I don't know. Promising subject for research?

David C

 

[Anonymous]

Marc, yeah, I was thinking the same thing but feared it showed a Lack of Moral Fibre :lol:

Should anyone have a copy (and it's not entirely beyond the bounds of possibility) there's a very clear article on the subject in The Woodworker for August 1964 (vol. 68 ) by Maynard, although he does use one "specialist" tool in the form of a side rebate plane.

Fascinating that Joyce shows such a small saw for such a wide joint - thanks for the pic, Jacob.

Cheers, Alf

Well I thought about the saw and in fact it does make sense because you cut with the whole length of the blade. This means a long saw (say 12") wouldn't have much room to move in a (say) 14" cut, and would need a lot of pressure for all teeth to cut together.
A short but not too fine tooth would be just the ticket perhaps.

cheers
Jacob

 

[Anonymous]

Well,

If I remember right you have to start with the toe of the saw and work progressively from the chopped out hole, back towards the back/face edge of the carcase.

At the start it is only possible to take a very short stroke. Whether a larger saw would help, I don't know. Promising subject for research?

David C

No you do it with the saw horizontal full length in the v cut line, large saw less help.

cheers
Jacob

 

[engineer one]

interesting that the 4th edition of joyce does not include this photo :?

very interesting and marc will see whether i can look at that as an idea. problem is mine would be in reverse

very useful though

paul :wink:

 

[Paul Chapman]

interesting that the 4th edition of joyce does not include this photo :?

Try page 156 :wink:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[engineer one]

thanks paul have checked that but not it is not directly related to the subject in discussion, it is in the housing section, and does not mention being dovetailed :?

however i will surrender, honest :lol:

paul :wink:

 

[Paul Chapman]

and does not mention being dovetailed :?

Oh yes it does :lol: Facing page 157 and diagrams 139:2 and 139:4 :wink:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Anonymous]

thanks paul have checked that but not it is not directly related to the subject in discussion, it is in the housing section, and does not mention being dovetailed :?
snip

It is and it does cos it's a dovetailed housing.
Sliding dovetail is a misnomer there's no such thing.

cheers
Jacob

 

[engineer one]

actually the wording on the photo actually says(in v4) "working a housing/dado.

it actualy only refers to dovetail housings in 139.2,3,4,5. :?

anyway i will now check properly and see which route to use.

paul :wink:

 

[Alf]

Certainly the usually short length of the dedicated stair saw suggests a shorter blade is to be preferred for that sort of task, but a regular small backsaw is such a different animal... :-k I dunno, wouldn't the heavy back of the longer saw off-set the pressure required to get all the teeth cutting? And the longer blade would be considerably more inclined to stick to the line*, wouldn't it? Plus you'd have the coarser teeth - unless perhaps that saw's teeth had been adapted for the purpose? Too much theory on my part, not nearly enough experience. :roll:

Cheers, Alf

*Don't get hung up on the technical description - you know what I mean!

 

[Anonymous]

Certainly the usually short length of the dedicated stair saw suggests a shorter blade is to be preferred for that sort of task, but a regular small backsaw is such a different animal... :-k I dunno, wouldn't the heavy back of the longer saw off-set the pressure required to get all the teeth cutting? And the longer blade would be considerably more inclined to stick to the line*, wouldn't it? Plus you'd have the coarser teeth - unless perhaps that saw's teeth had been adapted for the purpose? Too much theory on my part, not nearly enough experience. :roll:

Cheers, Alf

*Don't get hung up on the technical description - you know what I mean!

Well I've only done it with a normal tenon saw. I'm just guessing that a shorter saw might be handy - amongst other things it'd be easier to blow out the sawdust rather than have it fill the kerf.

cheers
Jacob

 

[Pekka Huhta]

Well now, how about the male part without special tools? I'm doing a cabinet for my bathroom and I either try to finish my home-made dovetail plane or then just try to survive with the "usual" tools.

Been thinking either modifying an old wooden rebate plane for the dovetail or making a cutter for the 45 or 55, but what other options there are? Sawing a kerf to the proper depth and chiselling out, finishing off with a side rabbet? What's the proper way?

Pekka

 

[Paul Chapman]

Been thinking either modifying an old wooden rebate plane for the dovetail or making a cutter for the 45 or 55, but what other options there are?

Hi Pekka,

There was a great post by Jake Darvall on the Aussie forum that might give you a few ideas if you are thinking of modifying a plane to do the job. See here http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au ... hp?t=33429

Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Pekka Huhta]

Thanks Paul, I've been enjoying Jake's posts, all of his mods are really ingenious. Idea for making the iron for the #55 came from that same post. I just wouldn't have to buy or build a tool just for one piece of furniture.

The new iron for a 55 would be a very easy way, having the nickers, depth stops and fences ready. Even a 45 would probably do on a few dovetails with just one skate, but I was just thinking that is there a "official way" for doing it?

The dovetail planes seem to be just a bit more common than hen's teeth and even the wooden ones made just for the male part are scarce. So there has to be some other way...

Pekka