Steve Maskery
Established Member
I've been working on my own today and have hung the door. It's taken forever.
I spent ages trying to get the frame right, because, although it is a gazillion years since I've done this job, I do remember how important it is that the frame must be square and true if the door is going to work properly. The opening in the framework is not as square and true and straight as it should be, unfortunately, but there is enough clearance to install the door frame and square it up with shims, without have to plane away any wood. So that is what I did. The frame is hard up against the hinge side and packed out on the leading edge jamb.
I was very careful (for which read slow and inefficient, Dr. Bob!
) to get it all plumb, and I checked with a spirit level and my Square of Thales:
The hinge jamb was pretty straight and true, but the lock jamb was not quite perfectly straight, but I could force it straight by adjusting the tightness of the screws which hold it to the frame.
I had to chop the hinge recesses by hand :shock: because the rebate precluded the use of my hinge jig, and I appear to have lost one packet of the nice SS screws that came with the hinges. They'll turn up, I guess, sooner or later.
But eventually I had it looking like this:
It's pretty good for clearance all round, the only issue is that the leading jamb catches very slightly on the bottom cill. For some reason the cill is not perfectly horizontal. It's only a mm or two, but it catches, so when I drill for the keyholes I'll also trim the bottom edge a bit.
The other dodgy bit is that the door does not sit true in the frame. The top leading corner touches before the bottom leading corner does, by about 8mm. I couldn't understand it. 8mm! I had been so careful, what could it be? It finally dawned on me. The door itself is twisted I'm sure it will be fine when the locks and catches are on. I still need to chop out the frame for the striking plates, and the door and frame for the catch, which I must remember to go and buy when I go out tonight. Screwfix are open until 8pm, I think.
Over the weekend I've also had a bit of a go at the rust on the saws. I bought some emery paper and set to. Although the TS top is still stained, at least the rust is all gone. I could probably keep going and remove the staining as well, but I don't want to compromise the flatness of the table top. Also, it doesn't sound like a bag of nails anymore. I guess whatever was rasping has be worn off. It sounds good again.
The bandsaw was not so bad and has come up smashing
And the last bit of good news is that I have found the fence to my P/T. It was on the floor in the cabin behind something else. Now I just need to find my Japanese chisels. I'm pretty sure I have them because I remember taking them to the Community Workshop, but I just can't lay my hands on them. I wonder where I've put them?
I spent ages trying to get the frame right, because, although it is a gazillion years since I've done this job, I do remember how important it is that the frame must be square and true if the door is going to work properly. The opening in the framework is not as square and true and straight as it should be, unfortunately, but there is enough clearance to install the door frame and square it up with shims, without have to plane away any wood. So that is what I did. The frame is hard up against the hinge side and packed out on the leading edge jamb.
I was very careful (for which read slow and inefficient, Dr. Bob!
) to get it all plumb, and I checked with a spirit level and my Square of Thales:
The hinge jamb was pretty straight and true, but the lock jamb was not quite perfectly straight, but I could force it straight by adjusting the tightness of the screws which hold it to the frame.
I had to chop the hinge recesses by hand :shock: because the rebate precluded the use of my hinge jig, and I appear to have lost one packet of the nice SS screws that came with the hinges. They'll turn up, I guess, sooner or later.
But eventually I had it looking like this:
It's pretty good for clearance all round, the only issue is that the leading jamb catches very slightly on the bottom cill. For some reason the cill is not perfectly horizontal. It's only a mm or two, but it catches, so when I drill for the keyholes I'll also trim the bottom edge a bit.
The other dodgy bit is that the door does not sit true in the frame. The top leading corner touches before the bottom leading corner does, by about 8mm. I couldn't understand it. 8mm! I had been so careful, what could it be? It finally dawned on me. The door itself is twisted I'm sure it will be fine when the locks and catches are on. I still need to chop out the frame for the striking plates, and the door and frame for the catch, which I must remember to go and buy when I go out tonight. Screwfix are open until 8pm, I think.
Over the weekend I've also had a bit of a go at the rust on the saws. I bought some emery paper and set to. Although the TS top is still stained, at least the rust is all gone. I could probably keep going and remove the staining as well, but I don't want to compromise the flatness of the table top. Also, it doesn't sound like a bag of nails anymore. I guess whatever was rasping has be worn off. It sounds good again.
The bandsaw was not so bad and has come up smashing
And the last bit of good news is that I have found the fence to my P/T. It was on the floor in the cabin behind something else. Now I just need to find my Japanese chisels. I'm pretty sure I have them because I remember taking them to the Community Workshop, but I just can't lay my hands on them. I wonder where I've put them?
