Steve's workshop - Painting the outside walls

[Graham Orm]

Yes I do like the idea of a Rocket Stove. It does tend to take up a bit of space though, if you build a horizontal version, which is the most efficient, I believe.
I think I'm going to insulate it as best I can. I have quite a lot of insulation scraps already and there may be more. Unfortunately my supply has temporarily dried up because one of the guys fitting the insulation is building an extension and is taking it for himself. How very dare he! I scrounged first!
So I may just see what it is like with a small electric heater. As Doug pointed out, any open flame heater in a wooden workshop may have an impact on any insurance...

Yes agreed, but its behind a closeable door. Mine is made from 2 old calor gas bottles. Doesn't take up much room.

 

[Racers]

Can you cut through it and nail a scrap piece across the join, after pushing it straight?

Pete

 

[OLD]

'You may well be right. You certainly are about the fatigue part of your analysis,'
You need to take a break man at least 2 days. Solutions which would be quickly resolved when you are fit can be almost impossible or the solutions to elaborate when tired out. I and many others reading these posts will have undergone this in the past .So just remember large jobs are a lot of small jobs put together and when you go back to it those 2 days will save you time they will not be lost.

 

[Doug B]

Trusses are due a week tomorrow. How are you fixed?

Should be in Sutton next week so no problems, just give me a bit of notice & I can pop over

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Get yourself a pack of plastic spacers and maybe a pack of plastic wedges - they will save you ages.

 

[Steve Maskery]

It's been pointed out to me, by more than one person, politely and in a kindly manner that I have been a bit of a plonker.

Apparently you don't have to stagger the noggings with 3 gs by very much to be able to nail in from the ends.

I'll try that on the front and back. I'm not doing them though until the trusses are up, we may well want to poke the ends out as we get them up and the fewer obstacles there are the better.

I'm learning so much by doing this. If only I'd known it all beforehand...

S

 

[monkeybiter]

the front and back. I'm not doing them though until the trusses are up, we may well want to poke the ends out as we get them up and the fewer obstacles there are the better.
S

Now that's excellent forethought!

 

[Steve Maskery]

I've been down the garden and had a bit of a think and a hunt.
There is only the one stud that is badly sprung, the rest look OK. And I've found a piece of 6x2 that is straight, at least in that direction. So I think I shall replace the stud.
It's piddling down here today, though, so it will have to wait, but I think it will be worth fixing.
S

 

[Cowboy _Builder]

Hi Steve , you're doing the right thing replacing that stud , because It would have annoyed you forever and I would have picked up on it when I come to inspect progress at the end of the July ...and just to pee you off it's about 36c here in Spain today ...way to hot to be outside and I'll be stuck here and in France for another month .

 

[Chrispy]

This is a very interesting thread and a fine workshop you are building with a good following but in that respect it's still way short of the SOD which I see is still going strong.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Suddenly I don't feel so incompetent.
S

 

[Steve Maskery]

This afternoon I've been putting right ****-ups.
You can see how badly sprung the stud was, I can almost get my thumb underneath.

One of the advantages of toe-nailing is that it is easy to dismantle!

With the noggings removed I could cut through the stud and pull it out.

So then I could nail the new one in place. Spot the deliberate mistake?

Yes, that is entirely the wrong stud. I should be nailing to one to the right of it. Plonker.

I found that the stud to the right of the new one was also very wonky. The twist is so bad that I fear that it will not support the board edges properly.

But The other studs I have are not a lot better, to be honest, so I decided to untwist it. I simply took out the noggings and used a sash clamp to pull the end square. Well squarer, anyway. It's not perfect but it is a lot better.

So now that stud looks like this:

I've been down the wall and it varies by no more than a few millimetres now. It's not perfect, but short of putting every stud and nogging through the planer/thicknesser to get them exactly the same width, I don't see how it can be. Some of the noggings are 3mm wider than some of the studs, so there will always be some meandering.

So with that fixed I started on those end noggins. I decided to cut a notch in them to go round my plasterboard supports:

I only had time to do two, I've got to get the pinny on for friends this evening.

 

[Graham Orm]

Good stuff Steve. That's a great look you've got going there, sort of Bjorn Borg meets Rambo.

 

[Peter Sefton]

I would say if you have only found a couple of bent and twisted studs you have done very well Steve. It's good to see it taking shape.
Cheers Peter

 

[Owl]

Steve, as a non woodworker I find this thread very interesting and virtually compulsive to read, as the saying goes: the pictures are worth a thousand words ..... keep up the good work

Incidently, who is taking the photos ?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Thank you.
Well I'm taking most of the photos, but some are taken by whoever else is helping me. So when Chris and Ray came last week, Chris took some. But mostly it's me using the timer.

I've been out this morning and finished those end noggings, but I've brought everything in as the sky is a black as the night.

S

 

[Graham Orm]

Looking great Steve. Hope there's not too much movement in the frame when it's weather tight and it dries out a bit. Keep up the WIP very addictive! ;-)

 

[Charlie Woody]

A bit more done today, chaps.

I've made the small header. Here is a better picture of the track setting gauge.
.......


............ I tell you, that setting gauge is one of the best things I've ever come up with. It might be simple but it saves me a lot of grief. It's Right First Time Every Time ......

Steve I made one of those today following our conversation. Not only is it so much more accurate but also miles faster than tape measure & pencil!!! I am seriously impressed, thanks a million!

 

[Steve Maskery]

We aim to please....

S

 

[Steve Maskery]

Today we have started to put on the sheathing.

We started by cutting a 30 deg bevel on the bottom edge of the bottom row of boards. This is to stop any water wicking up on the inside face.

And as we had a load of DPC removed from the old building we did a belt & braces job by stapling it to the bottom of the studwork.

We put the bottom row of sheathing in roughly with just a few nails so that we were going to be sure that it fitted. When we were happy that it did, we nailed it down properly.

The bevel looks like this when installed:

So after the first row we did it all again further up. We staggered the boards like brickwork. We used plastic packers to give the required 3mm gap between boards.

We also installed one board on each end of the back wall. This is to give some racking resistance to the back wall when we take those braces off, which we are going to have to do to get the trusses up.

So now this is the west wall (left as we look from the house)

and this is the east.

Talking of trusses, the truss company have managed to double-book their lorries and I can no longer have my expected Friday delivery. It's coming at 2pm tomorrow instead. Now that is fine, except that I had a team lined up for Friday and a couple of people who had planned to be available to help me cannot now do so. Fortunately I think we do have enough muscle, but I really don't like messing people about.

We have dug out a raised bed that is in the daftest of places. It makes getting down the side of the cabin awkward. I forgot to take a Before photo, but now it looks like this:

So tomorrow we can open the gate and get down the side in pretty much a straight line.