Steve's workshop - Painting the outside walls

[No skills]

Don't know exactly how much wood you have to paint - a large amount no doubt, can you borrow a spray gun from somebody local?

The thought of hand painting everything on a structure that size has me inventing new swear words, and I'm not even the one doing it :shock:

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I'd have rolled it.

 

[Steve Maskery]

A couple of weeks ago I trimmed the front ends of the trusses. I don't think I posted about that day. Anyway, it is so that I can have a fascia board of 6x1. It's the widest I can get ready tanalised. Because the trusses are made from 9x1, the depth at the end is huge, so I've left 120mm vertically and trimmed off horizontally from there. A 6x1 will leave me enough room at the lower edge to fit soffit.

Ray has been allowed day-release from Guantanamo Bay today,

so we set to finishing the roof membrane. There was not a lot left to do actually, so it went quickly.

We found a number of small holes in the membrane. One was Ray putting his saw through it, but the others are just puncture wounds. There were several and I'm wondering if it is the work of birds. But patching is easy enough, just as long as all the overlaps go the right way. It makes some interesting patterns when the two layers are just a small distance apart. Young's Fringes, if my physics serves me well.

We tried to get the laths to be a whole number of tiles long, but we don't think we can at the sort of overhang we want. We checked the gauge for the slates and they were spot on, 300mm plus 2mm for the rivet. 10 tiles came to 3018 exactly. So we are going to have to cut tiles, so it is probably just as easy to decide what overhang looks right and then cut the tiles to that.

So now it looks like this:

We didn't get chance to start the barge boards and Ray has his house to paint, so I don't think I'll be seeing him so much for a few weeks. But that's OK, there are plenty of things I can do on my own, it's just not quite so much fun.

 

[KevM]

Congrats on getting things weather tight - can't be too careful with a British summer!

It makes some interesting patterns when the two layers are just a small distance apart. Young's Fringes, if my physics serves me well.

Aren't they Moiré patterns?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Ah, yes, they might be. And I used to teach Physics...

 

[Paul Chapman]

Excellent progress, Steve, and looking good.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Racers]

Now its weather tight you can hire it out for disco weddings and bar mitzvah :lol:

Pete

 

[Steve Maskery]

Well Chris already has her eye on it for a Barn Dance venue before the machines get put in.
S

 

[Steve Maskery]

It's a lot slower working on my own!

I started by finding out exactly what the barge-board situation was going to be. I measured, best as I could, the distance from the ridge to the front end of the trusses. My barge boards are about 800mm too short, so I have to have a joint. The back ones are OK because the overhang is less at the back.

So I have to have a joint. I figure that it is better to put the joint at the top end where it is higher up, further away and carries less water. Only 800mm of dripping will hit it there. I've also arranged it so that the ends where they meet are bevelled on the ends and in such a way that any water that does get in drains to the outside rather than the inside. So I've cut two 800mm lengths for the top ends, suitably mitred and bevelled, and two corresponding long lengths which are mitred.

The only problem is that I've chosen the two best boards for the front fascia, second bests for the gables and the back fascia can be the rest. (Some of it is very rough, I have to say. DaveR said it looked like I was painting sponge. Had I been more quick-witted I'd have pointed out that that is because his lot keep all the good stuff and send all the rubbish to us. But it's easy to be hilarious when you've had best part of a week to think of a riposte.)

But one of the ones I've chosen (and therefore bevelled) for the front is on I cut 800mm off earlier! I didn't realise that until I was re-stacking them at the end of the day, so I'm going to have to choose one of the other boards, bevel it, apply preservative, then paint the end, with all the cleaning up that that involves, just for that one cut. Pah!

I've cut 16 blocks to mount the barge boards on the gable ends. These will be screwed from the inside and yes, it would have been infinitely more sensible to fit these before the roof was membraned, because now I can't lean over from the inside to the outside. So it's going to be a two-man job just to screw them in place, never mind lifiting the barge-boards. Never mind, they are made now, given a dose of preservative, and I've also made a pair of apex support pieces by gluing two pieces together, back to back:

Incidentally I used Gorilla glue for that. I bought it for this job, thinking it was PU D4 stuff, but it isn't, it's D3 and non-foaming, so I assume it's a type of PVA. But it was very nice to use, with an excellent nozzle closure cap thingy.

After I'd done all that I fitted the remaining noggings to the front, above the windows:

And that's it, a nice day pottering on small jobs.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Yesterday and today I've just about finished sheathing the front of the workshop.

I did most of it yesterday, but finished early to go to a music festival. One of the pieces I cut was too big for me to handle up a ladder on my own so I left it. Today my friend Thérèse came to pick up some concrete blocks and offered to lend a hand. So between us we got it in place. It is a continuous piece that fits over the personnel door and over the RH windows. That left just a couple of little pieces to fit over the double doors and on the uprights of the window openings:

The only bit I haven't done is a norrow piece twixt the personnel door and the window opening. That is becasue something, somewhere isn't quite right and I don't know what. The stud looks near enough right for vertical and the bottom sheathing panel looks just about right, but they are flush at the bottom, as they should be, but the OSB is proud by about 10mm at the top.

So I'll fit the doorframe and see what's what as far as gaps are concerned and take it from there.

Actually I went to buy the door frame this morning but there were out of stock, as they were last time I went. They have the door I want but not the frame and I want to buy both together so that I know they match. If I order the frame today it will not arrive before the middle of next week, so I'm not so happy about that. It is a nice wide 78"x36" jobbie. I'd be happy to make it myself, of course, but I need a workshop to do that in...

I will make the double doors myself though. I shall simply board up the opening in the meantime. So the front now looks like this:

This afternoon I took delivery of 70 lengths of shiplap, carried them down the garden and painted 20 of them. I've decided that they will be Dove Grey, the Trim will be white and the doors Vintage Denim. I think it will look rather nice.

And after all that sheathing, I have quite a few largish offcuts, enough to clad all those top openings on the back without cutting up any more full sheets.

 

[Steve Maskery]

One more thing about the personnel door, and I'd value your opinion, please. Do I have it outward opening, like a shed, or inward opening, like a "proper" building. Both have advantages and disadvantages.

If I have it outward opening, then it doesn't get in the way of anything inside, but the hinges will be more exposed to ne'er-do-wells. If I have it inward opening, then the hinges will not be accessible, but the area behind the door will be dead, for all intents and purposes. Either way I think I shall have the hinges on the right as seen from the outside.

What do you think folks?

S

 

[Graham Orm]

I'd use three 4" butt hinges Steve and have it opening out. If it's opening in it can be kicked in. You can put a steel overlapping strip around all but the hinge side that way to prevent bars being forced into the gap, and a steel reinforcement down the hinge side of the frame maybe?

 

[xy mosian]

Another vote for outward opening. You could always add hinge bolts.
xy

 

[NickWelford]

26001 views! Is that a record?

I vote for opening out.

 

[Chrispy]

Steve you are not building a shed so please do it properly and swing the door in, why does this mean that the space inside is dead? You need this space to use the door whether it opens in or out anyway.

 

[brianhabby]

Correct me if I am missing something Steve. You said you would put the hinges on the left looking from outside. That means if you choose inward opening the door will open into the room. If you put the hinges on the right (looking from outside) then it will still open into the room but the space behind the door is just a small corner and less of an issue. You could use the wall in the corner as hanging space for clamps or something similar.

BTW my vote is for it opening inward (with hinges on the right as described)

regards

Brian

 

[RogerP]

............ why does this mean that the space inside is dead? You need this space to use the door whether it opens in or out anyway.

... so why then do shed doors open outwards?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Sorry, I meant hinges on the right. Senior moment, I do know my left from my right, honest.

I'm inclined to have it outward, as it is an outbuilding, but I admit it is debatable.

S

 

[brianhabby]

Sorry, I meant hinges on the right. Senior moment, I do know my left from my right, honest.

I'm inclined to have it outward, as it is an outbuilding, but I admit it is debatable.

S

Ah! - I guess you can ignore my last post then

Whichever way you have it opening (and as you say there are pros and cons with both) you have to make sure it is what YOU want, after all it's your workshop and you will have to live with it.

regards

Brian

PS - I might be able to come visit at the end of the month, will let you know nearer the time. We are visiting my son who lives in Matlock and will be staying in Belper for a few day so not a million miles away me thinks.

Brian

 

[Steve Maskery]

You will be welcome. Bring your steel toecaps...
S