Startrite 352

[Wilson joinery]

Hi, has anyone got any thoughts or experience with this bandsaw? I’ve seen one advertised locally (£300) that looks like it’s in good condition but doesn’t have a fence. My plan is mainly to use it for cutting down 12” (ish) logs into useable timber. Anything I should look out for or any better alternatives? The one I’ve seen is sold with an inverter which I’ll need as I don’t have 3 phase in my garage. Oh yeah, any idea what the “s” stands for at the end of 352?

Cheers
Pete

 

[Rhossydd]

Stonking good bandsaw in great condition from that photo.
If genuine for £300 an absolute bargain. Looks like a good invertor that might add variable speed too.
Very easy to fit an aftermarket fence. It looks like it has the guide rail, so a cheapy from Axi ought to fit easily.
F'in heavy, but will break down to fit in an estate car if you have two strong people and a set of spanners.

 

[Jacob]

Hi, has anyone got any thoughts or experience with this bandsaw? I’ve seen one advertised locally (£300) that looks like it’s in good condition but doesn’t have a fence. My plan is mainly to use it for cutting down 12” (ish) logs into useable timber. Anything I should look out for or any better alternatives? The one I’ve seen is sold with an inverter which I’ll need as I don’t have 3 phase in my garage. Oh yeah, any idea what the “s” stands for at the end of 352?

Cheers
Pete

Do you mean ripping 12" boards? If so the 352 is far too small though you could perhaps work a few short lengths if thats all you want to do.
PS very good bandsaw - I've had mine getting on for 45 years. Recently had to renew the blade guides and made some replicas with beech. Seem to be doing fine so far - saved a fortune! The back guides are still fine.

 

[Alli]

Great bit of kit. I maybe wrong but I seem to think that 'S' Stands for School model and has extra safety switches/devices

 

[Fitzroy]

That’s a lovely saw for the money, it’s a 1.5kw motor by the looks of the plate. I had a 352 with a 0.75kw motor and it was underpowered past about 100-150mm depth of cut. I expect for 12” ripping this would be at its max limit and would struggle unless the blade were new and sharp as sharp can be.

 

[Ttrees]

Since you're not spooked about VFD's
Then I'd be looking for a 20" machine, or perhaps 24" if enough space,
as you'd likely get a 24" one cheaper, without much waiting.

If you want an inch blade sometime, then the machine would need be at least 200kg,
ideally a bit more than that.
Remove the table, and you can handle easy by yourself if yer fit to lift a bag of coal.
There be no weight if tilting back, (a floor standing machine of such weight)
see the many threads concerning bandsaw transportation.

See Fitzroy's machine upgrade to solid cast iron wheels, for the same money.
Normally they go for a bit more than he paid,
but worth noting one could get an rough Italian machine for the same money as below

All of the Italian machines of similar age I've seen have dual voltage motors, so can be run from a vfd,
and the hp rating likewise, i.e 24" wheels generally have a nice sized 3hp size.

Just give the wheels a good hands on inspection, to make sure the wheel bores are sound.
Not much else to go wrong, dress the tires, align the wheels, and motor if running with vibration
without a blade,
Don't fancy the last part?.....and you have a friendly belt shop, who might be able to swap for a longer belt, should a shorter one be non satisfactory, it might work so.

If not wanting to go there...then get something with a foot mounted motor, like a particular
Centauro CO from the 80's, which seemingly to me, was built too well!
That machine was seemingly the second welded sheet steel CO which ran up until the early/mid 90's, the first one not featuring the hub at the back for lower wheel adjustment, so
I'd avoid that one, the guidepost cover not having the telescopic design is the giveaway.

But likely anything Italian, and old, i.e ACM badged machines will likely have the vulcanized tires,
so will need TLC to get running sweet, and thus a good chance of a bargain there.
They might be missing a fence too...which is a sign the machine ain't running too well.

The ACM machines will feature a mitre slot, if that's important to you,
aswell as greater depth of cut, and I'd not think twice about making a flange mounted motor adjustable again.

Note the foot mounted motor.... like what the original 352 had.

If the basic, yet most honest design of large bandsaw there ever was, (a few Multico or Meber flavours featuring such adjustability also)...
Centauro CO series from that era doesn't do it for ya, but another Italian machine does...
then solid wheels are likely the next preference.
i.e most old Italian Felder's or Griggio for example spec those for the 500 and 600 SNA,
The 540, or 640 generally the spoked ones, still really good castings,
and the motor the same hp. (double check the Felder HP & odd wheel sizes though, to be sure)
Actually check that with all machines, with both doors open.

Good time to go a hunting, bet there's plenty of machines out there for not a lot more than the
tin wheeled Startrite.
Good luck
Tom

 

[Lons]

Built like a brick s**thouse, simple and fairly easy to maintain, mine is about the same age as Jacob's, bought secondhand and with a decent blade ( I use Tuffsaw) it cuts nicely.

I still have the original side guides though I've flattened them a couple of times but the rear guides on the machines are rods with a braised on TCT tip and these are prone to coming off then the blade custs grooves into the rods. You can just use them, buy replacements (not cheap), buy some 10mm carbide rod or do what I do, drill and tap the rod ends and screw on a disposable TCT cutter which stays put.

 

[Wilson joinery]

Thanks for all the responses everyone. My workshop is fairly small and access isn’t great so I think I’d struggle to get anything bigger than the Startrite in there. And yes it’s mainly shorter lengths I’d be ripping. I sometimes feel burning the logs that I can kindly get from a local tree surgeon is often a waste especially as the last lot was a pile of beech so having a saw capable of ripping short 12” diameter logs into useable boards would be great. It’s strange but I’ve heard a few people say that their big saws struggle with big depths of cut, my little Inca 260 which I think has a 470 watt motor gobbles up 6” timber for breakfast. Maybe it’s the brand new blade I’ve got on it!!

 

[Ttrees]

I brought my old base from the previous new 20" saw to the workshop,
it was one of those cheaper ones, and seemingly not the size of the 20" Axi,
and the same size as the 4300

I'm likely going to use it for the belt & disc sander, likely might be a half job
for some time, should it be handy enough to sort, that is if those splayed legs
might fit inside it.

That machine was no bother to move, table off obviously,
column down and the top of it onto a dolly, and onto a trailer it went back to where it came.
Sorry no pictures of that, needed to get there in time.

Can do ya a 24" if that helps, admittedly bit more difficult due to its height mainly.
On a floorstanding machine, not something on legs, then the easiest way I've found to tip the machine, is to get a thicker chok of timber than shown under the business end of the machine,
before walking around to tip back.
I've mentioned not to place a chok anywhere but the top of the column, as to keep the base remaining on the ground (think stabilizers) as a fulcrum effect from see-sawing on centre would encourage a roll.
You likely wouldn't be able to do that with the table on, and risk breaking it, or the trunnion.

Not much difference between either of those two underneath in the container?

That's ACM's 440 series below, they still make'em pretty much the exact same in Novelara, and sold under many a badge, like the stretched SCM formula version, they look quite smart.
Parts standard and available, though you'd need to dress the real rubber tires on these,
then you're good after that, these aren't consumable really compared to the pretend rubber on most else.
There's probably plenty of nice Italian machines on the bay.
In such a tight spot, it might be worth thinking about,

The newer ones are a bit fancier, mitre slot, motor HP, and longer chassis,
possibly heavier than before due to that.

And once again, another trolling comment about Centauro's CO's produced in 1980 somethin to 95/96, It's one of the only honest designs of bandsaw, due to the motor and lower wheel adjustability.
Here's a CO500 from such an era, those were too good if you ask me!

The only thing it doesn't have is a mitre slot.
Some might say foot brake, but if going three phase then VFD would take care of that.

You likely need to check the back to be sure!
Should you find a 3 phase one for a third of that cost, and hopefully what still has a fence.

ACM's lighter duty line, the SNAC/Star line do a 400, or a 500mm wheeled machine too,
which is a bit lighter than the CO range.
Great parts on those machines too.

I could argue why these machines are worth it, much less faff tool free non fumble guides,
cast iron wheels, not pressed sheet steel like the old 352, and some ergonomics too,
as well as the standard parts, it shouldn't come as a surprise the Italian's are the top dogs
at this game.

All the best.
p.s, A seasonal well wishing Italian bandsaw trolling holiday to you all.

Tom