Starting to work with metal?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks Rorschach, really helpful - in a couple of years he could be off living somewhere far away and it'd probably be time to sell it on, if we do go ahead and buy one - unless I've got hooked on it too! #-o
 
If the Myford is a bit on the steep side it's worth looking out for a Boxford AUD or VUD. Rock solid little (ish) lathe that a lot of schools had in them, which means they are still just about bountiful and normally have very little use on them.

No you can't have mine. :)

A Lathe is said to be the only machine tool that can make itself, get a horizontal slide and it will mill too, an indexing head on the cross slide and you can cut gears, with a screw cutting lathe you can do as the name suggests. the world is limitless and it's a tool I genuinely like owning, one that I try to find jobs just so I can use it.
 
novocaine":ou7mbyoc said:
No you can't have mine.
:(

Thanks novocaine, that's another to keep my eyes peeled for.
I was thinking about bidding on a Myford that sold this morning - it went for £1200 plus tho. And for sure, if I got one now he'd obsess over it rather than revising for the upcoming exams, so probably a blessing in disguise.
 
I don't know your budget but you can get a decent MIG welder for around £100. Not the cheapest chinese made ones either, just a low amperage one from a reliable manufacturer. This is worth the investment as they last a number of years and usually have a decent warranty. Well worth the investment IMO.
 
Well, he's not mentioned lathes in a while so I'm keeping quiet.

IMG_20190315_223405.jpg


In the meantime this is the lamp he recently made in school. He used the lathe to turn down the base to width, to bore into the shade to make the shade cap fit, to turn a bolt to fit the hole on the base and the ends of the arms to the correct length and shape; the milling machine to shape the bracket holding the upright, and where the two arms connect; and used emery cloth and then polished on the buffing machine. Then he did the electrics which was just a bit of soldering, apparently.

Proud dad, but full credit to his teacher and the school for helping him learn these skills!

ps that philips screw's coming off to be replaced with slotted one as soon as it gets home.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190315_223405.jpg
    IMG_20190315_223405.jpg
    993.2 KB
The most basic metalworking tool is the file. That would be a good start. Not that I'm suggesting he takes a lump of brass and files a cube as the apprentices used to do.

I didn't do that, but I did file an accurate mitre gauge slot for a table saw that I started making (and failed to complete!),

Keith
 
Nice to see a school encouraging it!

My D.T. teacher told me that I'd never get far in life with woodworking, great encouragement...
 
Thats more than my school ever got me to do in metalwork, and I was quite good.
Safety note here though, with an all metal lamp you need to check that "bit of soldering" wiring pretty well and make sure there is a VERY GOOD earth on it.
:shock: :shock:
=D> =D> =D> =D>
 
sunnybob":1dy73i7d said:
Safety note here though, with an all metal lamp you need to check that "bit of soldering" wiring pretty well and make sure there is a VERY GOOD earth on it.
:shock: :shock:
=D> =D> =D> =D>
I hadn't thought of that! Hopefully the school will have it checked and tested - if not, I'll be sure to get a sparky on the case. I'll point it out to him and see if it's been talked about - all good learning.

update - turns out it has 2 x LED bulbs powered by a battery! Can't say I blame the school for not wanting the responsibility of sending kids home with dodgy electrical appliances...
 
RE: earthing, I doubt a school would be making mains powered projects, I would assume it is battery powered.
 
Rorschach":3p8p3g1o said:
RE: earthing, I doubt a school would be making mains powered projects, I would assume it is battery powered.
Spot on - I'd just updated my last post!
 
Chris152":3qbc5hin said:
ps that philips screw's coming off to be replaced with slotted one as soon as it gets home.

First - I suspect that the screw recess will be PoziDriv not Philips (but that's just pedantic)

Second - I do hope you mean that the Slotted one will be replaced with a Pozi recessed one - - - or better still a Hexagon socket button head.
 
J-G":16wg4886 said:
Chris152":16wg4886 said:
ps that philips screw's coming off to be replaced with slotted one as soon as it gets home.

First - I suspect that the screw recess will be PoziDriv not Philips (but that's just pedantic)

Second - I do hope you mean that the Slotted one will be replaced with a Pozi recessed one - - - or better still a Hexagon socket button head.

First - no idea!
Second - I think the slotted one looks better, more simple - tho a hex socket button (I had to look that up online) would look good. But is there a reason beyond the way it looks?
 
Chris152":1d4v5ku6 said:
First - no idea!
The difference is subtle but essentially the Pozi Recess has an extra 'nick' between the 'cross' and is 'tighter' - see the attached image. (note that in this particular image, PoziDriv is incorrectly spelled)
Chris152":1d4v5ku6 said:
Second - I think the slotted one looks better, more simple - tho a hex socket button (I had to look that up online) would look good. But is there a reason beyond the way it looks?
Yes. - slotted head screws are prone to damage both to the slot itself and the surrounding components due to screwdriver slippage.
I now use Hexagon Socket almost exclusively (they used to be called 'Allen Head') except for wood-screws where I use PoziDriv or SupaDriv.
 

Attachments

  • Pozi-Phil Comparison.png
    Pozi-Phil Comparison.png
    3.9 KB
The screw doesn't matter, the only reason to change is for aesthetics, but yes, that is a Pz2.

I would send him back to school with it though with a note requesting they make a saddle washer for it so the screw isn't clamping on the round or recess the screw (or recess the screw in the saddle and fit a little cap on it to hide the screw). At which point a shallow cap head would look nicer.

He's done really well there, looks good and better than most will make in a year at school. he couldn't make it 240v with that design unless he wants a cable flapping about so a torch is as good as anything.
 
Whilst I agree with Novocaine that the current design has a flaw with regard to clamping, I would recommend a simple extra flat milled on the upright. I would also suggest a shake-proof washer under the screw-head would be beneficial.

I case you (Chris) don't know what a 'Saddle Washer' is I've attached a drawing showing the three options. The Saddle Washer is shown in red.
 

Attachments

  • Lamp.png
    Lamp.png
    268.8 KB
Thanks fellas, I'll get him to have a read and see what he thinks. I agree that the screw onto the rounded surface doesn't look right - tho changing it might have to wait til after the exams are done, when he brings it here. Obviously, we might be needing some new kit if we're to sort it at home... :?
 
Chris152":32x6efly said:
Obviously, we might be needing some new kit if we're to sort it at home... :?

The 'MIlled Flat' option doesn't have to be 'Milled' - it could easily be done with a file.
 
Sorry, absence from the Forum for the last few weeks has made any comment I make now entirely superfluous - EXCEPT to ask you to pass on to "the lad" a sincere well done mate! Good work and something to treasure as the years go by.
 
Back
Top