starting a workshop from scratch

[divman]

hi folks, i'm in need of some advice,

my dear old gran has very kindly given me her garage.

after clearing it out and buying a workbench my minds drawing towards investing in some machines.

still saving just now but was wondering what kind of power source i need.
the garage already has power, just the simple stuff though, lighting, music etc..

i've also noticed that as the nights are getting colder, the wood that i have machined to size in college has warped and bowed.
will i need insulation??

and finally, as i think about machines i've been considering the dust.
what kind of extraction system will i need??


i know thats alot of questions :lol:

any advice would be much appreciated.


p.s if you can think of anymore problems i might come accross please let me know.


many thanks,

divman

 

[big soft moose]

I dont know what your skill level ios , but if you are litterally starting out dont rush at buying machines - my advice would be to get a decent set of hand tools , a dust/chip extractor (for a single garage a bog standard hvlp like the axminster 1200 will be fine) and maybe a small bandsaw

ideally you could also do with a fine dust ambienrt air filter but you can build one of those , or just use a dust mask like the air ace for dusty jobs

then dont get anything else until your projects need it

 

[frugal]

There were some good articles in British Woodworking a while ago about setting up a workshop on the cheap. I am sure that if you PM Nick Gibbs (the editor) he will be able to tell you which issue and let you know how to get hold of back issues.

 

[wizer]

Power, you will probably be advised to get a new circuit run in to the garage with a separate consumer unit. Then run a new ring for lights, power, etc.

Insulation, what sort of construction is the garage? What type of walls, doors and roof has it got?

Machines, Lots of debate about this. But I'd suggest a bandsaw as the first machine. Save up, get a good one, you'll never regret it.

Extraction, I'd say a vacuum type is the way to start (I always get HVLP and HPLV mixed up). Something like a camvac or record RSDE2. This will handle all your hand held power tools and will do a pretty good job with the bandsaw.

Any good?

 

[Shultzy]

Divman, firstly welcome to the forum. Secondly if you are going to use the garage a lot you need to insulate it, not only will this keep you warm in winter but also cooler in summer. Fit a small oil filled heater in it which has a frost setting, which will help to stabilise the conditions inside. Next take BSM's advise and only buy tools, including machinery, when, and if, you need them. I had the merest hint of power tools for 35 years and made all sorts of furniture including kitchens, wardrobes, tables and toys. It takes longer without power tools but that doesn't mean the pieces will lack quality if you take your time.

Lastly search the forum, there's plenty of info lurking within .

 

[Harbo]

Do not forget about security and noise levels too.

Also you may need a 16amp supply for some machinery especially some Table Saws.

Good luck

Rod

 

[Tenko]

My mate, a qualified leccy has just wired up my garage, and also put a new consumer unit in the house.

The house consumer unit has a 40a trip switch for the garage and the garage has a seperate consumer unit with one trip for the sockets (7) and one for the lights (2 x 6ft strips). 7 sockets are barely enough, although 1 is for the lawnmower.

Howarths Timbers do Xtherm insulation boarding which is cheaper than Kingspan which I intend to fit between the rafters shortly. At the moment I have a calor gas heater which loses most of the heat through the roof, but I'm getting there. I see the light at the end of the tunnel

Produced my first Xmas prezzie today on the scrollsaw 8) Well chuffed.

The last 3 days have been security, bolted down one garage door which is not going to move unless I want it to, the other has 2 reinforced mortice locks, a Yale and a hasp and staple padlock, if they want to get in, they are going to have to work at it

Mick.

 

[big soft moose]

My mate, a qualified leccy has just wired up my garage, and also put a new consumer unit in the house.

The house consumer unit has a 40a trip switch for the garage and the garage has a seperate consumer unit with one trip for the sockets (7) and one for the lights (2 x 6ft strips). 7 sockets are barely enough, although 1 is for the lawnmower.

Howarths Timbers do Xtherm insulation boarding which is cheaper than Kingspan which I intend to fit between the rafters shortly. At the moment I have a calor gas heater which loses most of the heat through the roof, but I'm getting there. I see the light at the end of the tunnel

Produced my first Xmas prezzie today on the scrollsaw 8) Well chuffed.

The last 3 days have been security, bolted down one garage door which is not going to move unless I want it to, the other has 2 reinforced mortice locks, a Yale and a hasp and staple padlock, if they want to get in, they are going to have to work at it

Mick.

word of caution there - gas heaters put out a lot of moisture which isnt ideal in the shop - once you are insulated you'd be better off with an oil filled radiator or two ( okay so these take up a socket or two but my shop only has 1 two plug socket - but that is in conjunction with 2 6 plug extension leads - you rarely use more than two machines at once in myt experience - one of those being the dust extractor)

 

[divman]

Thanks vey much everyone.
i've got a fair bit to research.


been building furniture for a few years but this is the first oppurtunity of having my own space.

hoping to start buying my timber in bulk and breaking it out myself which is why i was thinking about machines.

glad you's mentioned security, i never even thought of that.
it still has the garage door, is there anything i can get to keep that secure??
there is another door that i use but thats pretty secure.


thanks again for all the great info.

divman

 

[big soft moose]

Thanks vey much everyone.
i've got a fair bit to research.


been building furniture for a few years but this is the first oppurtunity of having my own space.

hoping to start buying my timber in bulk and breaking it out myself which is why i was thinking about machines.

glad you's mentioned security, i never even thought of that.
it still has the garage door, is there anything i can get to keep that secure??
there is another door that i use but thats pretty secure.


thanks again for all the great info.

divman

assuming the garage door is the up and over type , i'd drill through the bottom edge and bolt it to the concrete with expanding bolts - then board over the inside.

nother point - garages are often quite gloomy and ill lit - so you probably want to upgrade the lighting - flourcent daylight tubes as per olly (OPJ)s blog are a good bet - also paint the inside walls white.

 

[L Harding]

You defo need to secure the garage door, the standard up and over are laughable. But sort of bolting the thing shut forever as BSM suggested (which IMO would be a complete waste - it will be so useful when trying to get big things out the workshop, like a dinning table for example, or your new table saw in) it would suggest one f these as an option

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79478/Sec ... e-Defender

Luke

 

[jlawrence]

First thing to do with the garage door is to take the handle off the outside.
Then secure the bottom of the door to the floor. I have mine secured to (inside) with a hasp and class (+padlocks) on each bottom corner as well.
This all means that I can (sort of) open the door from the inside should I need to.

 

[jimi43]

Is the garage stand-alone, lean-to or built-into the house?

+1 on using oil filled electric rather than calor...calor produces a HUGE amount of moisture...not good. I have a huge fan heater which looks like the front of a jet engine which was a fiver at a bootfair....it has a setting for frost too. I think you will find it costs more in the long run for background heating though...

If you are going to buy just one machine tool..the one that revolutionised my work was a bandsaw. You can make and repair furniture with a good one without ever needing to buy a table saw too....and a tablesaw takes up a huge footprint which a bandsaw does not (so much).

Put it on a trolley with substantial wheels so that you can lock it up against a side wall for small jobs and wheel it out into the middle and open the main door for big jobs. You need as much space at the front of it as at the back of it for long stock.

Clamps, clamps and more clamps....and cramps! 8)

Bessey seem to be the best but if you are on a budget get sash cramps from a bootfair or get the ends from eBay and make up stock to the size you want for longer jobs. I have also got some IRWIN one-handed adjustable cramps...they are pretty good too. G cramps..C cramps whatever...can be bought for a song at fairs...I have six million of them (HA!)...

For small spaces and in place of a table saw I highly recommend the RYOBI portable circular trim saw.

I call this my "Carlsberg Saw" This I use for the jobs where other tools cannot reach...

It does long rip cuts with a clamped straight edge...and crosscuts with ease. It cut 2" thick oak stock in two passes! Get two batteries and keep one charged!

Regarding power...I would have a separate consumer unit with a high current feed (30-40A) and then an RCD or whatever the current (pun intended) flavour of earth breaker is this month...as a MUST. Good lighting is important...I use fluorescent daylight bulbs in covered units (don't whack a tube with a piece of stock that way) on one ring. A 13 socket ring all around the garage with breaks for twin sockets and strips on benches.

Insulation...depends on the outbuilding type but see the many other condensation, insulation etc threads at the moment. I am still working on mine but I am winning.

Hand tools....depends on your need...only tip I would say if you are poor or rich....buy the best you can. Read through the "hand tools" forum for exellent recommendations for all of these.

Most important of all...a digital camera and a story....let us know how you get on and how you master this issue...so others can learn by your mistakes and successes! (hopefully more of the latter!)

Jim

 

[big soft moose]

You defo need to secure the garage door, the standard up and over are laughable. But sort of bolting the thing shut forever as BSM suggested (which IMO would be a complete waste - it will be so useful when trying to get big things out the workshop, like a dinning table for example, or your new table saw in) it would suggest one of these as an option

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79478/Sec ... e-Defender

Luke

the trouble with those is that they are only as good as the bolts that hold them down , and also 5 minute attack resistance won't do a lot of good in a secluded location - plus their being highly visible just advertises to any passing theif that there are valuables within - a bolted (Or padlocked) down door just looks like a close one from outside and can still be oipened for the rare ocasioin like replacing your tablesaw by removing the bolts

The other reason to board over the metal up and over door is heat conservation - a thin metal door will do nowt to keep your heat inside.

I have the best of both worlds as my garage/shop has opening wooden doors rather than an up and over , and these are secured on the inside by sliding bolts and padlocks

 

[wizer]

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79478/Sec ... e-Defender

Luke

These are very good. The way they fix into the ground would make it very hard to tamper with. I had one on my door before I switched to a roller (bad decision).

So mine's for sale if you would like it? £45 inc del?

 

[big soft moose]

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79478/Sec ... e-Defender

Luke

These are very good. The way they fix into the ground would make it very hard to tamper with. ?

i'd differ on that - where i worked a few years back we had one of these on the depot up an over - the neer do wells wrapped a chain round it and ripped it out of the ground - presumably by yanking it with a 4x4

ive also seen them torched in half along the strut

they are good for stopping casual theft in locations exposed to public view but if you are in a secluded location they wont stop a determined theif for more than a minuite or two

 

[OLD]

Whats the floor like it needs to be smooth to move m/c's about poly sheet and chipboard t&g flooring glued up with a sealer makes a nice job best to do this before it fills up with stuff.

 

[divman]

it is a stand alone garage with an up and over door.
i have a side door but you enter that from the garden which is fairly secure. will be very secure by the time i'm done with it :lol:

i do like the idea of still being able to use the garage door.

was wondering if insulation would work even if i kept the metal garage door, any suggestions???

thanks for all the advice so far, my morning has been filled with research but it's defo helping.

much appreciated people

 

[big soft moose]

you could stick insulating boards to the back of the metal door with no nails or similar (make sure you use the exterior grade no nails tho as the domestic one dosnt like cold surfaces)

alternatively you could make a false door behind the metal one enabling you to effectively board over it but still be able to open it when needed

 

[head clansman]

hi

my advice prepare the garage before any thing is moved in , no matter how keen you are to start to fit it out, most replies here have covered things like new consumer units , all new electrics, but also give a lot of thought to sound proofing first make it toasty inside . hc :wink: