Standard or Rebating Block Plane

[Saint Simon]

I've decided its time to buy a better block plane, one that doesn't gently fall apart in use, and would like some advice please.

Would a rebating block plane do the things that a standard one does as well whilst offering the edge to edge function in addition? Does a standard one do standard things better than a rebate plane or would the latter do both things well enough?
thanks
Simon

 

[Max Power]

I would only buy the rebate version if you envisaged using it for that purpose as the normal plane is better as a block plane having an adjustable mouth.

 

[wizer]

Agreed, the rebating function is specialist and shouldn't be combined with the function of a block plane. Just get a good block plane, which of course is an essential piece of equipment.

 

[eoinsgaff]

I have a block rabbet plane and a shoulder plane and I'm sorry I didn't get an ordinary block plane. The shoulder plane does every thing I might have used the block rabbet plane for - in terms of its speciality function.

As a shoulder plane is regarded as one of the important planes in a kit it might be worth considering one along with an ordinary block plane.

Just a thought

Eoin

 

[PAC1]

I bought a rebate block plane and find it comes in to its own on raised and fielded panels and shooting the face of tenons if my set up is a little out. Whilst I can and do use it for general block plane activities such as planing narrow edges the fact that it is a rebate plane with a sharp pointy bit on both edges can lead to problems on normal block plane work. I agree with Eoin that the shoulder plane is better for most uses

 

[Saint Simon]

Thanks for the advice everyone, which I duely followed and bought the Veritas low angle block plane. What a revelation! Firstly it doesn't fall to pieces in your hand in use, unlike its predecessor, cuts end grain beautifully and most importantly its so easy to set the blade with the Norris style adjuster.
I am sure that I will get back to using my other planes but for the moment this is such a pleasure to use I don't want to put it down. Not brilliant for jointing long boards but makes wonderful shavings trying!
thanks
Simon

 

[Benchwayze]

The rebate-block plane has it's blade sharpened square across, so it can work right into the angle of a rebate. You can use it for general smoothing tasks, but it can leave tramlines. My block plane has the slightest curve across the edge to avoid those tramlines.

I've seen tips that advise touching the corners of a plane-iron, on a stone, just to remove the sharp angle. (Instead of putting a curve on the edge.) In my experience, this leaves scuff marks instead of tramlines.

I use my shoulder plane or carriage-maker's plane to tidy up rebates and fielded panels. If you prefer block planes, then go for both types, and get the best quality you can afford.

Regards
John

 

[afreegreek]

I have the LN rebate block plane.. it's a very nice tool too and I'm very glad I bought it. I use it to cleanup saw marks and for fitting joints. I find it much easier to control in certain cases than the tall shoulder planes I have. some times I use it as a normal block plane when it's out and the block plane needs to be reached for and it does a great job but only for surface work.

the problem is the location of the blade is exactly where I (and probably you) rest my finger and thumb when grasping it to do narrow edges. I can't tell you how many times I've cut them by forgetting which plane I was holding. perhaps if this was your only block you might learn faster than me but because my regular block is a LN too, I find I've nicked my fingers again before I realize which one I've got hold of.. if you have big hands or small hand it may not be a problem but I have medium size hands and the blade is right there where my fingers want to land once I've cupped my palm over the lever cap.. I have to make a conscious effort to keep my fingers back from the normal spot I've become accustom to when holding a block plane.