Stainless Steel Plane

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wobblycogs

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Ok, the fact I've never seen a plane made from stainless steel makes me think there's probably a good reason why no one makes one but I have to ask why not?

Having just spent a less than fun half hour cleaning surface rust off my one and only LN plane I'd dearly love one in stainless as I seem to be one of those unlucky people that has ultra-corrosive perspiration. If it so much as touch my LN and forget to wipe it clean a few days later I'm looking at a perfect rusty finger print. Oddly enough though most of my other hand tools don't seem to suffer as badly, the plane must be made from a different type of steel.
 
LV made a limited edition edge plane in SS.
They said at the time SS is a much harder material to work in.

Rod
 
Karl Holtey's No 98 smoother and panel plane are in stainless. Somewhat more expensive than an LN though. Also, the Veritas NX60 block plane is cast in some sort of nickel steel or iron alloy which is rust proof.

Jim
 
yetloh":2q3lb43k said:
Karl Holtey's No 98 smoother and panel plane are in stainless. Somewhat more expensive than an LN though.
Jim
Now there's an understatement :lol: - Rob
 
Stainless is much, much harder to machine than cast iron, which sends the cost of producing a plane soaring. Veritas tinkered with a metallurgical solution with their top of the range block plane - a really beautiful piece of engineering but not designed with any intention of being accessible to those on a budget.

I'd hazard a guess that your LN is among the newest tools in your workshop. A newly exposed surface is more prone to corrosion than a weathered one, simply because there are more ions available at the surface to engage in an electrochemical reaction. Kinda like a queue for a nightclub and a queue at the post office on pension day - both are crowds of people but one is a little bit more 'active' than the other.

It's the same issue that Rockinghorse noted in his Quangsheng 3 review, in fact QS use a material with high chromium content, which is the ingredient that makes stainless less prone to corrosion than plain iron or carbon steels, so over time it should actually perform better than the standard product.

A little care and protection is all that's needed, avoiding metal storage containers, a wipe of light oil, camellia etc before you put it away or try one of the range of anticorrosion products on the market. When you consider what you would expect to pay an insurance company to cover your selection of expensive tools against corrosion damage (stored in a damp garage are they sir?....righto!) a few VCI pots start looking like a bit of a bargain.
 
Stainless steel is very hard to work with ....I guess production costs would be too high.

Can I ask why you don't just wipe the plane after you use it?

Camelia Oil is the best....

(there now follows a pantomime series of posts "yes it is...oh no it isn't") :mrgreen:

Jimi
 
Working SS gave LV all sorts of production hurdles to learn from, I gather; their limited edition edge trimming plane acted as useful practice before the NX60 block plane iirc. I'd have to check, but I have a strong recollection that Rob Lee mentioned it went through tooling pretty quickly for instance. Not a cheap solution by any means, but has a slight advantage over bronze in not leaving marks if it's not used regularly. Both make for some pretty tools, mind you, although while the irons are still O1 or A2, you can't totally eliminate the dreaded rust.
 
jimi43":v7x53ubk said:
Can I ask why you don't just wipe the plane after you use it?

Camelia Oil is the best....

Jimi

Have to disagree with you there Jim. Some years ago I used Camelia oil and found it didn't seem to offer the level of protection I expected. I then read an article by the late great Jim Kingshott expressing the view that it is too light and tends to evaporate away too readily and that what is needed is an oil that is designed to (literally) stick around. He recommended chain (as in chainsaw) oil. I bought a bottle and have used it ever since. the lightest smear seems to last indefinitely and is very effective at preventing rust. The bottle is still 90% full; it will see me out. Jim Kingshott: a great craftsman and a very wise man.

Jim
 
I agree with you about Mr Kingshott Jim....I have his book.

You both probably used an inferior version..there are loads out there, it's like olive oil...there is virgin olive oil and there is the cooking stuff.

I have wiped all my tools with the stuff from Matthew for the last year and trust me...my workshop is damp in the winter...actually it can be damp in the summer too! All my tools are fine with no rust or marks and it doesn't leave a finish preventing residue on wood...I think chainsaw oil will....

Anyway...use whatever rocks your boat but I would humbly suggest...not to put tools away without doing it if you have particularly acidic skin.

Jim
 
Hmm, had a feeling cost would probably be the reason. I tried working a little stainless by hand over Christmas for a project I was doing. I didn't realize it was stainless at first, just thought I must be tired after a day in the shop :).

Any how, I wipe down all the tools after use (dry cloth followed by camillia oil) but for whatever reason last time I used this particular plane I forgot so when I got back to it yesterday there it was covered in rusty finger prints. If it wasn't on one of my most treasured tools it would be quite an impressive sight actually, you can see exactly where I've touched the plane and even get a feel for how hard it was gripped in different places. I wonder though if we do all perspire differently, I'm guessing the rusting has more to do with how much salt is in the sweat rather than acidity levels.
 
And the prize for 'Analogy of the Year' goes to...
matthewwh":94fg0w94 said:
like a queue for a nightclub and a queue at the post office on pension day - both are crowds of people but one is a little bit more 'active' than the other.
:D
 
Blimey the late Mr Kingshott ... chain oil? I know what he's getting at - "anti fling" oil that has been developed for putting in the little tank on a chainsaw specifically for lubricating the chain. It's weird stuff. The quality varies, but the best is very viscous in an odd way - it stretches out like thin chewing gum. Great for not being lost in chainsaw use and I bet very good for staying put on something that you don't want to rust but if ever there was an oil that you can't get off again before using a plane, this is it.
I've never tried camelia oil ... I'm guessing it is vegetable? I've always used 3 in 1 very light - having a vaguely oily rag hanging around for wiping over is enough.
 
Coat the sides and any other bare parts apart from the sole in Kurust or similar, wipe the sole with an oily rag after use...you should achieve your ambition - no rust...bosshogg (hammer)
You can't help a man who doesn't tell you what he wants :|
 
jimi43":nkqpvfnj said:
I agree with you about Mr Kingshott Jim....I have his book.

You both probably used an inferior version..there are loads out there, it's like olive oil...there is virgin olive oil and there is the cooking stuff.

I have wiped all my tools with the stuff from Matthew for the last year and trust me...my workshop is damp in the winter...actually it can be damp in the summer too! All my tools are fine with no rust or marks and it doesn't leave a finish preventing residue on wood...I think chainsaw oil will....

Anyway...use whatever rocks your boat but I would humbly suggest...not to put tools away without doing it if you have particularly acidic skin.

Jim

You could be right , Jim, mine is the Axminster stuff, maybe Matthew's is better.

Jim
 
Harbo":170wclm4 said:
LV made a limited edition edge plane in SS.
They said at the time SS is a much harder material to work in.

Rod

Talking of which :)
Number 22 of 300
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:)
 

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