Spray Adhesive For Attaching Abrasive Sheets To Granite Tile

[pollys13]

Make sure the plane is intact and other that the blade retracted, just as you would use it.
Rub the sole on some fine wet and dry on a flat surface (maybe your glass plate), not much just to create shine on the raised parts of the sole.
Photograph the result and we will tell you if it's significant or not.

I reckon I could take off more than 0.5 mm of raised soft cast iron with maybe 30 or 40 swipes on 180 wet and dry, on a small sole like a block plane. Less than a minute.

I have several grades of fine grit wet and dry. Will use and do on Friday and post photo, should I also also mark with a permanent sharpie?

 

[pollys13]

" May I ask why the need for a lapping station for plane soles if you don't have any vintage planes? "

Some while ago I bought an Axminster Rider Jack plane. I didn't consider checking the plane for flat and square because of Axminsters glowing descriptions of their Rider range. I didn't think it would be a consideration. Only later on did I read about other peoples experience with Rider planes, some good some far from it.

Around the same time I bought a Rutlands Qiangsheng Luban No.4 smoother. I thought it would be as good a quality as Quangsheng. Rutlands currently describe their plane as " Solid cast steel body precision ground for a flat sole and square wings " I don't know if advertised the same when I bought it. Again I was under the impression I had no need to check for flat.

I thought I should invest in a sheet of Axminsters float glass to inspect for flatness as well as using a straightedge. Wouldn't get very far I understand if plane sole not dead flat. I checked both planes and I could get a 0.04 feeler gauge under the sole of each plane, so this has led me onto spray adhesive and abrasive paper.

 

[ED65]

Sorry, I missed your preceding post explaining about the Rider no. 5.

Four hundredths out isn't nothing that's for sure... <screech of brakes> Had a fuller response typed in but it occurred to me late, these are metric feelers correct??

 

[pollys13]

Make sure the plane is intact and other that the blade retracted, just as you would use it.
Rub the sole on some fine wet and dry on a flat surface (maybe your glass plate), not much just to create shine on the raised parts of the sole.
Photograph the result and we will tell you if it's significant or not.

I reckon I could take off more than 0.5 mm of raised soft cast iron with maybe 30 or 40 swipes on 180 wet and dry, on a small sole like a block plane. Less than a minute.

Just been looking at the wet and dry I have, mostly coarser grits, then up to 400, 600, 800. The only sheet of fine I have is 1000 and a couple of sheets of 1200 I even have a sheet of 2000 but these fine grits are the impermeable types of paper.
I also have an Axminster Rider No. 60 1/2 deluxe block plane and a few other Rider planes, the 60 1/2 seems well made and good quality, though I checked for flat on the float glass I think the sole needs some attention too.

 

[pollys13]

Sorry, I missed your preceding post explaining about the Rider no. 5.

Four hundredths out isn't nothing that's for sure... <screech of brakes> Had a fuller response typed in but it occurred to me late, these are metric feelers correct??

Hi,
Just about to eat my supper and have to rush out, can't locate, "Four hundredths out isn't nothing that's for sure... <screech of brakes> Had a fuller response typed in but it occurred to me late, these are metric feelers correct?? " no time to check, did I say Four hundredths? , yes I'm using metric.

 

[lurker]

Just give it a quick rub on the 400 all you need to do is create shiney high spots.
Unless I have the wrong end of the stick entirely, you are massively over thinking all of this.

If the hollow is truely only 0.04mm then that is sod all!
Just get the blades sharpened and get on with some woodwork!

FYI : I try to get the 1-2mm on both sides of the blade edge mirror finish, but the rest whist flat is no where near scratch free.
My plane soles are near flat but are a mass of tiny scratches and a few deepish gouges that do not interfere with the plane action one bit.

 

[ED65]

yes I'm using metric.

Thought so, in that case it's nowt! In old money your planes' soles are about one thou out, which is super-duper flat; even by the standards of high-end planes that's good. Really good.

I'd give very good odds that the plane I currently use as my super smoother is out of flat by substantially more (because this is the norm) and I have no quibble with its performance.

 

[custard]

Does anyone have any practical experience of sticking belt sander abrasive to granite tile, granite worktop saver, also to float glass?
If so what spray adhesive would they recommend and available in the UK, also the best way to remove the abrasive sheet?
Thanks.

It really depends on what you're trying to do. Here are some possibilities.

I use 3M Super 77 to stick 16" wide sanding belts to a two foot long piece of 25mm MDF. I stick 80 grit on one side and 150 grit on the other side.

I use this for all sorts of things, for example it's ideal for flattening the mating surfaces between a box lid and base in order to achieve a flawless shut line.

For this type of application you just have to reconcile yourself to the fact that removing the adhesive is impractical, when the grit is worn you chuck it and make another.

Next up is gluing sanding sheets to granite for "scary sharpening". I use the self adhesive sheets from Workshop Heaven and carefully roller them onto a granite block. I peel them off when they're worn out and remove the adhesive from the granite with acetone.

Finally, if your objective is flattening off a plane sole then I wouldn't recommend using an adhesive at all. The reason is this, you want a fairly large sanding surface to allow the long strokes that will make the process efficient, but you also need to work down through at least four or five different grits. The best way of doing this is with a long roll of abrasive paper stretched over a float glass platten, but attached and tensioned with cleats rather than adhesive. Here's my solution (although there are loads of alternatives),

And here's this system in use on a plane iron,

Hope you found that useful. Good luck!

 

[woodbloke66]

...did I say Four hundredths? , yes I'm using metric.

If my sums and reasoning is correct, four hundredths of a mm (0.04) is less than half a tenth of a mm so the question remains...will the plane still take a wafer thin shaving and can you make furniture to that tolerance, bearing in mind that...

...you're looking at something that's less than half the thickness of a sheet of printer paper? I suspect that the plane works fine as it is and that the flatness of the sole is within acceptable tolerance - Rob