Sourcing a Locknut for Wadkin AGS 10

[samweb132]

Hi guys, bought an old wadkin AGS 10 that Is missing the blade nut. Does anyone have any specifications or knowledge on where to buy one, whether any other lock nuts fit or the the standard type of thread that the saw comes with.

Last resort is to take the spindle out and take to a machine shop but would rather not deal with the hassle if possible. Any Contributons appreciated!

 

[deema]

I believe it’s a 5/8” left hand square thread. Think rocking horse doo doo……but I might have one buried in storage with my machines.

 

[samweb132]

I believe it’s a 5/8” left hand square thread. Think rocking horse doo doo……but I might have one buried in storage with my machines

Have been asking about and have heard a few comments saying it's a 5/8-18 square or acme left handed thread. Finding them in the uk seems to be a challenge though!

 

[Turn It In]

Hi guys, bought an old wadkin AGS 10 that Is missing the blade nut. Does anyone have any specifications or knowledge on where to buy one, whether any other lock nuts fit or the the standard type of thread that the saw comes with.

Last resort is to take the spindle out and take to a machine shop but would rather not deal with the hassle if possible. Any Contributons appreciated!

Are you still trying to souce a Wadkin Nut if so I can help by supplying a genuin Wadkin nut to suit your saw. Please contact me and i can post it to you. The price is £30 plus postage. Kind regards, Ian Carress. Skidby Engineering Services

 

[toolsntat]

@samweb132

 

[samweb132]

So after a long painful time it appears my problem is solved. John Mills has been my saviour.
Just waiting for it to be sent back.
Thank you everyone for the help you guys have been amazing.
Expect to see another post from me in the next week tripping over the 2nd hurdle!

 

[deema]

Looking at the boss that has the hole in it for the bar that stops the spindle rotating when the lock nut is tightened / undone I was ask him to remove the spindle and skim the face of the boss. The hope highlights it’s been abused, and the clamping face of the boss will have been affected, it won’t be flat, so the blade won’t sit flat down against it not allowing it to be clamped properly. You will see if you leave it a wobble on the blade that will affect the cut quality / safety of the saw. I always advise people who have bought saws off me never to use this spindle lock and instead just jamb a piece of wood into the blade for removal of the lock nut.

 

[Against_The_Grain]

Looking at the boss that has the hole in it for the bar that stops the spindle rotating when the lock nut is tightened / undone I was ask him to remove the spindle and skim the face of the boss. The hope highlights it’s been abused, and the clamping face of the boss will have been affected, it won’t be flat, so the blade won’t sit flat down against it not allowing it to be clamped properly. You will see if you leave it a wobble on the blade that will affect the cut quality / safety of the saw. I always advise people who have bought saws off me never to use this spindle lock and instead just jamb a piece of wood into the blade for removal of the lock nut.

A good way to correct any deviations in the flange is with a small grinder such as a dremel clamped to the table carefully so that is it only just touching the flange and with the saw running raise the flange up to the grinding stone with the rise and fall mechanism and grind across the whole width of the flange. That way the flange face is completely perpendicular to the rotation once ground, which can be tricky to jig up in a lathe with 100% accuracy.

 

[ChaiLatte]

Please excuse me if I am pointing out the obvious, but should there not be another flange that goes between the new nut and the blade (left side of the blade in the photo)?

It may be that the OP has it and it is not in the photo, but hopefully it is clear that the nut should not screw up directly onto the blade.

 

[samweb132]

A good way to correct any deviations in the flange is with a small grinder such as a dremel clamped to the table carefully so that is it only just touching the flange and with the saw running raise the flange up to the grinding stone with the rise and fall mechanism and grind across the whole width of the flange. That way the flange face is completely perpendicular to the rotation once ground, which can be tricky to jig up in a lathe with 100% accuracy.

Do you have any video examples or anything. Not wanting to ask John to do this as he's already done quite alot for the price of postage. But would be keen to do myself.

Please excuse me if I am pointing out the obvious, but should there not be another flange that goes between the new nut and the blade (left side of the blade in the photo)?

It may be that the OP has it and it is not in the photo, but hopefully it is clear that the nut should not screw up directly onto the blade.

Not got one no but on the list to get.

 

[ChaiLatte]

Do you have any video examples or anything.

Rather than take as gospel the assertation above that "the clamping face of the boss will have been affected, it won’t be flat", why not verify the truth or falsity of it and then decide what action, if any, might be warranted?

Hold a thin sharpie marker in a controlled manner close to the flange and rotate it slowly. Move the marker incrementally towards the flange. If the line it eventually produces is a full circle, there is no distortion in the flange.

The alternative is to colour in the flange with a sharpie and hold a pointed object in close proximity. If the scratch mark is a full circle, the flange is OK.

For £8.74, you can buy the correct tool for the job:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305829734216

 

[Against_The_Grain]

Do you have any video examples or anything.

This is the best example I could find:

 

[Fergie 307]

Not sure about the Dremel.
In the video the guy is using a die grinder, a precision tool capable of being mounted absolutely rigidly, neither of which applies to a Dremel. A Dremel itself is not that accurate, and I have yet to see any method of mounting one rigidly. Good tool, but not for this.
The stub arbour in the video presumably has a mating surface on its back side, so what is important is that this surface and the blade mount are perfectly parallel, easily done on a lathe.
The machine in the video clearly isn't the same as the image posted by the OP. But if the mount and spindle are one part then still easy enough to set up in a lathe so that the face is at right angles to the shaft. Needs to be done with care, but more time consuming than difficult.
One of those jobs where you can spend ten minutes setting up for about 20 seconds machining time!
I can certainly see Deema's point, and can well imagine there being a bump on the face where the locking hole is.
Nothing wrong with the idea of the locking hole, if people use a proper peg spanner rather than a screwdriver, six inch nail or whatever else comes to hand

 

[deema]

There are two lands normally on the flange, in the Video the inner one has been at some point machined off. You can see the lighter area where it used to be. The inner land cannot be ground off as shown since it is right up to the spindle. If you just grind the outer land you are creating a very unstable and hence dangerous clamping arrangement of the blade. There are people far more experienced in machining than I, but for my 2ps worth, it can only be turned down without full disassembly of the flange from the spindle.

 

[Fergie 307]

That makes perfect sense, and have to agree removing the inner land a pretty daft idea.

 

[Against_The_Grain]

Can anyone show a photo of a flange with two “lands”? I’ve never seen this and I’ve used a lot of saws, all that I have used have only had the perimeter mating face which corresponds to the same face on the outer flange, having an inner mating face is completely unnecessary unless you do not have an outer flange.

 

[Fitzroy]

Can anyone show a photo of a flange with two “lands”? I’ve never seen this and I’ve used a lot of saws, all that I have used have only had the perimeter mating face which corresponds to the same face on the outer flange, having an inner mating face is completely unnecessary unless you do not have an outer flange.

 

[samweb132]

For future nut seekers I have just found a thread saying that the delta uni saw nut will screw down to the end end of the spindle. I don't plan on ordering one right now but they are £10 on ebay so worth a shot. Also included the OPs handle.

 

[Against_The_Grain]

Consider me put straight. I haven’t seen that before but it does make sense on a machine where you may be using cutting equipment that’s not a regular saw blade.

 

[Fitzroy]

Consider me put straight. I haven’t seen that before but it does make sense on a machine where you may be using cutting equipment that’s not a regular saw blade.

To be honest I own the same saw and when Deema said there were an inner and outer land I was sceptical. Had to go and take a look to prove myself wrong.