Sourcing a Locknut for Wadkin AGS 10

[samweb132]

Hi guys, bought an old wadkin AGS 10 that Is missing the blade nut. Does anyone have any specifications or knowledge on where to buy one, whether any other lock nuts fit or the the standard type of thread that the saw comes with.

Last resort is to take the spindle out and take to a machine shop but would rather not deal with the hassle if possible. Any Contributons appreciated!

 

[deema]

I believe it’s a 5/8” left hand square thread. Think rocking horse doo doo……but I might have one buried in storage with my machines.

 

[samweb132]

I believe it’s a 5/8” left hand square thread. Think rocking horse doo doo……but I might have one buried in storage with my machines

Have been asking about and have heard a few comments saying it's a 5/8-18 square or acme left handed thread. Finding them in the uk seems to be a challenge though!

 

[Turn It In]

Hi guys, bought an old wadkin AGS 10 that Is missing the blade nut. Does anyone have any specifications or knowledge on where to buy one, whether any other lock nuts fit or the the standard type of thread that the saw comes with.

Last resort is to take the spindle out and take to a machine shop but would rather not deal with the hassle if possible. Any Contributons appreciated!

Are you still trying to souce a Wadkin Nut if so I can help by supplying a genuin Wadkin nut to suit your saw. Please contact me and i can post it to you. The price is £30 plus postage. Kind regards, Ian Carress. Skidby Engineering Services

 

[toolsntat]

@samweb132

 

[samweb132]

So after a long painful time it appears my problem is solved. John Mills has been my saviour.
Just waiting for it to be sent back.
Thank you everyone for the help you guys have been amazing.
Expect to see another post from me in the next week tripping over the 2nd hurdle!

 

[deema]

Looking at the boss that has the hole in it for the bar that stops the spindle rotating when the lock nut is tightened / undone I was ask him to remove the spindle and skim the face of the boss. The hope highlights it’s been abused, and the clamping face of the boss will have been affected, it won’t be flat, so the blade won’t sit flat down against it not allowing it to be clamped properly. You will see if you leave it a wobble on the blade that will affect the cut quality / safety of the saw. I always advise people who have bought saws off me never to use this spindle lock and instead just jamb a piece of wood into the blade for removal of the lock nut.

 

[Against_The_Grain]

Looking at the boss that has the hole in it for the bar that stops the spindle rotating when the lock nut is tightened / undone I was ask him to remove the spindle and skim the face of the boss. The hope highlights it’s been abused, and the clamping face of the boss will have been affected, it won’t be flat, so the blade won’t sit flat down against it not allowing it to be clamped properly. You will see if you leave it a wobble on the blade that will affect the cut quality / safety of the saw. I always advise people who have bought saws off me never to use this spindle lock and instead just jamb a piece of wood into the blade for removal of the lock nut.

A good way to correct any deviations in the flange is with a small grinder such as a dremel clamped to the table carefully so that is it only just touching the flange and with the saw running raise the flange up to the grinding stone with the rise and fall mechanism and grind across the whole width of the flange. That way the flange face is completely perpendicular to the rotation once ground, which can be tricky to jig up in a lathe with 100% accuracy.

 

[ChaiLatte]

Please excuse me if I am pointing out the obvious, but should there not be another flange that goes between the new nut and the blade (left side of the blade in the photo)?

It may be that the OP has it and it is not in the photo, but hopefully it is clear that the nut should not screw up directly onto the blade.