Somebody stop me.... Imminent Festool purchase

[Doug71]

What are you using for dust extraction on yours Mike? I have a KS60. Among the many reasons for getting it was the supposed better dust extraction. With the 27mm Festool hose on a CTL MIDI I've been really underwhelmed by the extraction. Using a 36mm hose improves the situation but it still isn't amazing.

I had planned to build one of those boxes around it, but I'm convinced most of the escaped dust travels around 45 degrees up and to the side, which would just bounce of the front of any shroud.

I have the KS 120 and find the dust extraction very good compared to other saws, not sure if the KS 60 is the same .

On the KS 120 cutting technique makes a big difference to the extraction. You need to first pull the blade towards you past the timber then drop it down and make the cut pushing the blade away from you. Sorry if I'm telling you something you already know but on the KS 120 if you just use it like a chop saw pushing the head straight down to make the cut a lot of the dust doesn't get collected.

Once you start cutting mitres, bevels and compound mitres the dust collection does get a bit more random!

 

[MikeK]

What are you using for dust extraction on yours Mike? I have a KS60. Among the many reasons for getting it was the supposed better dust extraction. With the 27mm Festool hose on a CTL MIDI I've been really underwhelmed by the extraction. Using a 36mm hose improves the situation but it still isn't amazing.

I had planned to build one of those boxes around it, but I'm convinced most of the escaped dust travels around 45 degrees up and to the side, which would just bounce of the front of any shroud.

I use a Festool CTM 36E with my KS 120. It is below the KS 120 and uses a 36mm hose that I cut to fit.

Here are some thermal videos (not mine) showing the effects on the dust stream with different cutting methods. As @Doug71 wrote, the cutting method makes a difference in the dust/chip collection. The main effort is to get the dust/chip stream into the dust shroud where the vacuum can do the rest.

The Kapex is not completely dust/chip free, but it is much better than my previous saw, as confirmed by my air quality meter.

 

[TRITON]

So did you do it?

Other than some experimenting with dust extraction it has been amazing, although I did manage to cut a section off the adjustable fence doing an angled cut!

The local big trade place i usually go to cant match the online sellers, or even some of the other trade shops. £588 is the minimum i can find in Glasgow, but currently they've only got it in 110v, and i need 240v. They've told me it will be back in stock before the end of the month.

So very soon. Cash is set aside, and I'll be able to pick it up from the trade counter when it comes in.
I know I might be able to get it a little bit cheaper online, but theres much to be said for picking up something like this from a reputable seller in your home town.

 

[Baball]

I have the KS 120 and find the dust extraction very good compared to other saws, not sure if the KS 60 is the same .

On the KS 120 cutting technique makes a big difference to the extraction. You need to first pull the blade towards you past the timber then drop it down and make the cut pushing the blade away from you. Sorry if I'm telling you something you already know but on the KS 120 if you just use it like a chop saw pushing the head straight down to make the cut a lot of the dust doesn't get collected.

Once you start cutting mitres, bevels and compound mitres the dust collection does get a bit more random!

I use a Festool CTM 36E with my KS 120. It is below the KS 120 and uses a 36mm hose that I cut to fit.

Here are some thermal videos (not mine) showing the effects on the dust stream with different cutting methods. As @Doug71 wrote, the cutting method makes a difference in the dust/chip collection. The main effort is to get the dust/chip stream into the dust shroud where the vacuum can do the rest.

The Kapex is not completely dust/chip free, but it is much better than my previous saw, as confirmed by my air quality meter.

Thank you Doug and Mike. Those videos are amazing.

I have previously done a shallow scoring cut across the top first, and then plunged down through the material on the side nearest me, and then pushed the saw back. I noticed doing that causes the spray pattern to change through the cut, and creates a lot of mess not picked up by the extraction.

Today and yesterday I tried the technique Doug suggested, which the video showed to be the best for dust collection (plunging entirely before starting the main cut), and I've been amazed. It makes a HUGE difference. With the previous technique I had got to the point where I was reluctant using the Kapex because of the mess. Now, I can enjoy using it again.

Thank you both!

 

[TRITON]

Im opting for a slightly different route here. Though its probably a case of I will buy the kapex. My needs are down to the good dust extraction, rather than just a cross cutter/grooves,dados etc. But I've also got to get some furniture built, as I've just redecorated the front room, with new DG windows, carpet,lovely blue feature wall, seating,furniture etc, and a new layout incorporating a 75" tv on one wall(long thin TV unit to sit below for blueray, pc etc.)

Prior purchase to this was the festool TS55 plunge saw, and as of a few hours ago bought the Parf system mk2 from Ax.
So making/having an MFT table in the new workshop layout, coupled with the plunge saw, cross cutting very accurately, along with grooves and all the other wonderful things you can do on it, will get the new workshop build as the few things i need to get built(new TV cabinet,tall combined book,cupboard,display unit) on the go, as an MFT set up is probably more versatile in those constructions than the kapex.

I will get one, only with the other jobs needing to get started on and the cost of materials, im likely best going that route first than fitting out the workshop with fancy kit.