Some you win, some you loose

[sawdust maker]

I lost!

About a week ago I asked if using a router on a lathe in a jig could you make a 4" dia. dowel. The answers I got were inconclusive, so I thought I would have a go and made this.

The base ran on nine roller bearings and I was well chuffed when it had no discernable vertical or horizontal movement.

The router was fix on a sliding base plate adjuster with the large black knob.

.
I set it up to turn a 3.5" softwood cylinder. The result was very disappointing.

.
But at least I know the answer to my question. It doesn't work.
On the brighter side most of the bits were from my scrap box.

 

[DomValente]

But at least I know the answer to my question. It doesn't work.

Maybe, but I'm still impressed.

Dom

 

[andys wood shed]

But my Legacy can do it :?
and it works on the same principle

Couple of questions

Is the router set on the centre line (the Legacy is off set towards the front of the work piece)

What type of cutter are you using (the Legacy uses a 1 1/4" flat bottom cutter)

Which way are you traversing (towards the tail stock which would give you up cut milling)

Also how fast is the spindle speed don't forget the Legacy is only hand cranked :lol:
Regards

Andy

 

[sawdust maker]

Hi Andy

The cutter is 1/2" X2 1/2" straight flute.

And runs at the front of the wood. The cut was made from Head to tail. I ran the lathe at all speeds from 1000 rpm to 3000rpm.

I am interested in the idea of cutting at the top of the work piece. I am sure my problem is vibration. Cutting at the top could solve the problem.

Paul

 

[DaveL]

But my Legacy can do it :?
and it works on the same principle

As does my router lathe, from Trend, now a discontinued line.

Also how fast is the spindle speed don't forget the Legacy is only hand cranked :lol:

Again just like mine.

 

[andys wood shed]

Hi Paul

I may struggle to put this into words and its too late tonight to open the workshop and take some pictures but here goes:

From your picture it looks like you are using the side of the cutter and any side deflection will give you vibration.

The legacy cuts on the bottom of the flat cutter and runs (looking from the tailstock towards the chuck) in the eleven o'clock position therefore all the cutting forces are downward giving less vibration as you have the weight of the router and your home made carriage working in your favour.

The diameter of the work piece is controlled using the plunge facility of the router.

Also I think your lathe speed is much too fast. I bet the top speed of my Legacy is about 60 rpm (one turn of the handle per second :lol: )

Hope that helps a little

Andy

 

[ike]

Impressive - but out of curiosity, why didnt you turn one?

Ike

 

[duncanh]

You might get better results if you try it with some hardwood.
Also give it a go hand turning the spindle

Duncan

 

[lemonjeff]

Paul,
I have the same router as yours which I bought for edging sheet material, mines a recon and using the same cutter as you I get vibration on med to high speeds. Works fine on lower speeds, just takes a little longer.

Jeff.

 

[sawdust maker]

Thanks for all your replies. In answer to Ike, why I didn't just turn one, I need to make several and want the Dia. to be very accurate. And my skill level is just not good enough. So I will take onboard what you have said. I have also got some ideas from Gooleing "Router lathe". So watch this space I may yet have success.

 

[sawdust maker]

I have had a total re-think.
May problem is that I want to turn several 2' plus 4" cylinders and I feel I cannot do this freehand. I don't have a problem holding a chisel, so why am I not using one and thinking of using a router? By my calculations the wood the wood on a 4" cylinder passes the cutter at a rate of over 123' per minute at 1000rpm (the slowest my lathe will run), and that is far too fast for a router cutter to cope with. So what would help me? A very long tool rest and some way of holding a skew chisel at a constant angle and distance from the work pice. I only have a normal size tool rest, but I have to lower part of the jig, which as I said runs very smoothly with no vertical or lateral movement. I could fit to this a tool rest with a large vee cut into it, shaped so it held the skew chisel at the correct angle to the work pice. I this way I will be able to make smooth continuous cuts the full length of the work pice.

 

[nickson71]

Hi there


Where abouts in east yorkshire are you???

I don't know if this will be of any help but

I picked up a trend router lathe of ebay a while back and due to DIY home improvements I've not had the time to set it up and test

However if your interested I could have a look at it during the weekend and get it setup. If it all goes ok I could bring the router lathe over to you or you could bring the timber to me. It also will make me do this as I've been meaning to have a "play" with this for a while

Also what is the length of the cylinders you need to do (edit: just looked at your previous post and it says 24" so that should be fine)

by the way I'm in Darwen, Lancashire

Ian

 

[Paul.J]

Would it be possible to do these on a router table,if you have one,with a 1" roundover cutter in.You would get a much better finish. :?: :?:
Paul.J.

 

[ike]

I need to make several and want the Dia. to be very accurate.

One way to make it easier is to make guide cuts down to the required diameter with the vee chisel then take off the rest down to these. A skew will then flatten it pretty good then for final accuracy, use a sanding block.

And my skill level is just not good enough.

I'm sure it would be with a bit more practise :wink:

cheers,

ike